sargevining Posted January 8, 2006 Author Share Posted January 8, 2006 Did the sludge wash on the pit sidewalls, but did it before any detail parts were added. While I think that resin is better than photo-etch to build up a cockpit, I prefer plastic over both. This would not be an issue if more kit manufacturers made better cockpits. This kit is not perfect, but as stated before, the depth is right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 8, 2006 Author Share Posted January 8, 2006 This is as far as the let side got today. One of the reasons I like plastic is thet the detail is deeper and I can cut, drill, and sand with a bit more precision, as well as add more details that stand out better than those molded in resin and then painted. You really can't see it in this pic, but I;ve drill trhough the stingers where the conduit passes through. I'm also using some of the smaller detail bits from a Trumpeter P40 cockpit, the crank hanlde you see here is kit part number C43. I'll also be using Trumpeter kit parts C41 and C42 for the dials on the flap control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 8, 2006 Author Share Posted January 8, 2006 And this is as far as the right siode got, I have some Propmodeler data placrd decals that will go on the upper cockpit wall, and one for the fire extinguisher. TTFN...check out Chris' build to see how it;s really done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 9, 2006 Author Share Posted January 9, 2006 Onward, into the fog..... The gun sight is pretty well done, taking three separate parts. The problem is that there are no locator pins or slots, only a finely etched spot on the upper surface of the panel to show you where it goes. The e only thing to glue to is the thickness of the mounting bracket. Like the wiring harness, this makes for an unstable and unreliable connection. The sight protruded too far into the cockpit, IMHO, so to make for a better connection I took out the plastic on the panel where the sight was to go and placed a piece of angle on the back of the panel to give more bonding surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 9, 2006 Author Share Posted January 9, 2006 While rasslin with the cutting and filing the panel for the gun sight, the photo etched round hookus under the center and the auxillary instrument panel fell off. Super glue my Aunt Annie's drawers.... Found the Aux panel and will use the extra one from the other kit to take the palce of the lost one.. Jeez... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcauchi Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 Great work Sarge. Love the gunsight and sidewalls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 Thanks for the kind words, Brian, but they are not quite done. I did the sludge wash before I added any detail parts or painting because I wanted to try something new. I like the effect of the sludge wash, but there are times it looks to, well, "washy." After I added the detail parts and painting, I drybrushed the entire wall with MOdelMaster Zinc Chromate, which is a bit lighter than the Gunze acrylic. This in an effort to "tone down" the wash a bit. Handling the pieces while working also had the effect of rubbing some of the wash off as well. The attempted worked somewhat, but I believe that next time I'll try a grey wash instead of black as I think the effect is still too put of scale. Her's what the right side looks after the drybrushing with the Model Master ZC, plus a light dusting with flat aluminum and a schpritz of Dull Cote. f you compare it with the previous ones, I think you might see an imrovement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 One thing I did not mention in the previous post is that the fire extiguisher is painted brass, common for the period, with ZC mounting bands. It shows up as ZC apparently because of reflection. Here's the Left side. While Chris's build is much better (and both of mine still need a little touch up) http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.ph...t=ST&f=4&t=8508 I'm shooting for constant improvment (and trying new technique with each build. As long as the next build is better than the last I feel I've gained more from the hobby than I brought to it that day. The reference I have for the cockpit (see the pics I posted in Chris' build above), show some conflict between the cockpits for the two ships that pics are provided for, and the kit pit does not match either of them, so a good deal of tnhis is done on "gut." I still have a bit of work to do on the instrument panel. I need to add a power line for the sight, replace the photo-etch that fell off while rigging it, and give a final schpritz of Dull cote. I'm also going to add a couple wires in the back as the reference photos do show some being visible. After that I will button up the fuse as I don;t want the panel knocking about the desk and have the filly bits fall off. There are two things I wanted to attempt, but decided not to, largely due to fear. I thought about adding some monofilament of other thin line around the cosliding cockpit crank and a map light that shows up on the left side. But this is all we aregoing to get done tonight. Capitalism beckons on the morn, and the **** crows early here in God's Country. Y'all come back now, y'hear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcauchi Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 I don;t think that your wash is as bad as you make it out to be. However, just two points which might improve it. Thin down the paint more and use a fine pointed brush to apply it. It has to be so thin that you just place the tip of the brush against the raised detail and the paint should run all along the line. Use raw Umber not black. If this still doesn;t work for you try to apply the wash in a controlled way using a brush and painting in a shadow on one side of the detail, for example on the underside. this will give a very raised 3-D effect. But I think that the first method should work if you try it out a bit more. I love the data plates you put in. I would love to find a source fof data plates. They make such a great difference in the cockpit or on the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 About 5 years ago I bought a Pro-Modeler decal sheet that has data plates, prop logos, and instruments on it...when those are gone I'm not sure what I'll, especially since Waldron is going out of business. On the wash, yeah I;d thought of that as well. I wasfolleing instructions in FSM that says to lay it on heavy. I've also heard folks talk about raw umber and will give that a shot as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 OK; I read Chris' problems with mating the fuse: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.ph...=4&t=8508&st=45 and the problems that Tom Cleaver had when posting his build here: http://www.modelingmadness.com/reviews/pre.../tc/tmc3236.htm And came to the determination that, while this is a limited run kit and we can expect some fit problems, there must be something in the engineering of the kit that causes it, and it may not be warping. I'm a Structural Steel Draftsman and I decided to attack the problem in the manner in which I would attack it if it were a complaint from the field that they can't get things to fit right, so I examined the components and checked their fit indivdiually, rather than as a system. Not having any drawings, I dry fit using tape and clamps to put everything into position in the same manner it will be when glued. This means that I test the fit of the individual parts before adding any of the others in the "system" and then only test fit them one at a time, if possible First, we'll get the obvious ones out of the way: Theres is a pretty ugly gate on the fuse right side. It' stand pretty pround and defeinetly needs to come off before testing any fit. The corresponsing gate on the other side is also priminent, byt not as bad as this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 Dang...I can dry fit, but not proofread. The Army taught me to type, it's my only excuse. There definetly is warpage, as shown below. This is what leads me to beleive that folks are looking at this as the main problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 OK... I'm not as smart as what I post below makes me look. I'm shortening the process by which I came to the conclusion by a very good deal. Suffice it to say that I took a lot more pictures (they substitued for fabrication drawings), fit a whole bunch of things together a number of times, and reread a couple of the posts and Cleaver's build more than twice until I came on this critical paragraph: "To this point, the assembly had gone very easily for a limited-run kit. The kit lived up to my expectations when I made my first attempt to mate the wing to the fuselage. It wouldn’t fit! Not only that, but the wing dihedral was nearly flat. I quickly pulled the two assemblies apart and took a moment to consider the options. " Until I had read that anumber of times I was only checking fuselage parts. But after reading the "dihedral" reference for the umpteenth time, I decided to check the lower wing. This was when I discovered that dihedral is built into the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 When you check fit of steel parts if the guys in the field are telling you they don't, the first thing that needs to be done is to find the critical part that you can definetly confirm is detailed correctly. After pulling my head out and checking that dihedral, and the several fuselage parts that would definetly affect dihedral, here's what I have determined. The bulkheads are distorting the lower fuselage, forcing the correctly molded lower wing to display zero dihedral. They CAN BE made to fit in the fuse and clamped...I did it several times without any real problems. But each time I did it, I attacked the problem as a way to make the BULKHEAD fit into the fuse, not to "let the fuse fit the way it wants to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargevining Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 To sum up, what we have heard from the field is that a part that definetly SHOULD fit does not. It has to be the other parts connecting to it. To test the hypothesis that it is the bulkheads that are distorting the proper nature of the connection at the wing root, forcing zero dihedral, I dryfit the wings to the fuselage without bulkheads. What we find is that these components SHOULD FIT as they were designed to. has to be the bulkheads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now