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Frankenzero...


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I'm not yet in a situation allowing me to comply with kit finalization deadlines but frankly, I don't care. I've always thought Russ was an incredible modeller and I really want to participate in this group build as this guy deserves some tribute...

 

I also thought something special was appropriate. My Sea Fury is a little bit stalled for various reasons that shall be solved in the nearby future. In the meanwhile, I've another project: a Frankenzero!!!

 

This story started some weeks ago when I purchased a 21st century A6M3. I was thrilled by the idea to be at last able to build the famous plane of Hiroshi Nishizawa also known as the Rabaul's devil!

 

However, I was soon disappointed as an analysis of the kit quickly showed the label is incorrect: the kit is clearly based on the Tamiya A6M5. In fact, it is an initial A6M5. I checked my books and only found some classical camos (green over grey). I was really willing to build this one quickly but the possible options were far less appealing...

 

Hence, AMS stroke again...! I had to find a solution...

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The analysis of the 21st C. kit showed that changing its nature into an earlier mark (A6M3 model 22) was going to be an heavy job...

Globally, wings shall be lenthened (a la A6M2)

 

Then I thought to the Doyusha A6M2 Zero I had purchased from a LSP fellow modeller. I initially bought it to build a Rufe with the help of the MDC conversion. However, when I found a small crack in the rear canopy part, I postponed the purchase of the MDC set up to the finding of a solution to this clear part issue.

 

A discussion related to the 21st century kit mentioned the possibility to use both kits in a kitbashing project. I checked compatibility of both kits and concluded this was possible even if not easy.

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The evaluation of both kits showed that the fuselage width and heigth were different. However, with some sanding and use of two-components putty, it seems it was possible to use both kits to build an A6M2 model 22 and use the nice 21st century decals as they included Nishizawa bird!

 

A quick check in Aero detail and Maru Mechanic plans showed that the cut should be done behind the vents in the fuselage side.

This also showed that the 21st century was dimensionally sound whereas there are not really visible but specific issues on the Doyusha kit. Nonetheless, as the Japanese kit is nicely molded with rivet lines, molded in standard styrene and reasonably correct, I decided to base the build on a maximum of Doyusha parts.

 

With a razor saw both parts were cut, then sanded and glued with CA glue as the 21st century plastic does not like the Tamiya glue I'm usually using.

 

The area that will need a lot of elbow grease is the belly junction between the nose and the wheel wells area.

 

I hesitated a lot regarding the wing root but finally decided that using the front root of the 21st century nose area was the best way to proceed and this should also ease mating the belly parts.

 

The picture below shows the new fuselage. Note that plasticard was necessary to compensate the lack of width of the 21st century section. I also rebuilt the MG holes area with CA glue and opened the MG vent hole.

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I modified noticeably the Doyusha interior: I removed everything!!! I also removed the far too large canopy rail guide.

 

Similarly, I removed all the interior parts of the 21st century nose parts. I only left what was absolutely necessary to glue the parts. Note that it is not easy to reconstruct the new fuselage because of the long side vents preventing the possibility to have many points to glue.

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Updating the 21st century parts to the level of the Japanese kit asks for heavy work. You clearly see the difference between the motorized kit and the toy...

 

The cowl was heavily sanded and polished to get a better plastic surface and attenuate the deep panel lines. Moreover, the gun throughs were rebuilt with 2 components epoxy as huge holes had to be filled in. This was surely the easiest way to get a correct result. I also added some rivet lines. I'm yet wondering if I'll add the other ones (visible on Tamiya cowls). I've yet to update the cowl fixings. A notch was added in the upper port cowl shutter. I also recreated the separation between the cowl shutters with very fine jeweller files as the molding was not on par.

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This is excellent work Thierry, and I'll be following closely. I have variations of both these kits in the stash too. The 21st C kit will become a clipped-wing A6M3 (it's already a Frankenzero on its own!), and the Doyusha kit will be mated to the Horizon Rufe conversion. Your work will serve as both instruction and inspiration for me!

 

Kev

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The Doyusha kit has three noticeable drawbacks:

 

- a too shallow and basic cockpit

- a too basic engine

- too shallow wheel wells

 

I've found solutions for the three problems.

 

For the cockpit, I've some parts in my Tamiya A6M2 which are useless for this version as they were initially created for the A6M5. As the 21st century is a simplified copy of the Tamiya kit, I took as much as possible of the left-over parts from the Tamiya kit to combine them with the Chinese parts. This picture shows that you may combine both types of parts (original and copies) very easily.

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Hi Kevin!

 

I also thought to the clipped wing A6M3 but you also have to lengthen the wings! I was not willing to do this even if I believe that the amount of modifications I'm currently doing will probably prove to be as challenging as the model 32 option...

 

Regarding the wells, I removed them with Radu saws and succeeded to get a prefectly clean result! You will be glad to know that the CMK wells normally intended to be used on the Tamiya kits may be used without too much trouble! I just had to lenghten a little bit the well hole where the LG leg must be installed (more or less 3mm if my memory's right). Note that holes are missing in the resin wells (as well as in the Tamiya ones BTW). The enclosed picture shows such holes.

 

The A6M2 type 22 also had gun bulges under the wings. Fortunately, they are also included as not to use parts in the Tamiya A6M2! The less positive aspect is the fact that the panels are not correctly sized on the Doyusha kit. Hence, I did not take the full Tamiya panels and just used the bulge area. I'll correct the panel lines later.

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Hi Kevin!

 

I also thought to the clipped wing A6M3 but you also have to lengthen the wings!

 

I'm not so sure mate. My understanding is that the clipped-wing bird had the same short wingspan as the A6M5, only squared off. It was a way of avoiding putting in folding wingtips, and the wingspan was shorter by the combined length of the folding tips. This same wingspan was later rounded off for A6M5s (and late A6M3s?). Am I mistaken?

 

I remember hacking those CMK wheel wells up to fit my Revell Zero. Boy was that fun! :thumbsup:

 

Kev

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Regarding the engine, I've the Doyusha parts (rather crude), the 21st century parts (simplified) and one rank of cylinders from my Tamiya A6M5 (as I've the CMK engine set in this box).

 

I finally decided to modify the two half-molded cylinder crowns from the 21st century kit to make a new, full one! This takes time but the final result will not ask for a lot of changes to be mated to the leftover Tamiya cylinders crown.

 

With the parts from the three kits, I should obtain a nice Sakae engine...!

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"My understanding is that the clipped-wing bird had the same short wingspan as the A6M5, only squared off."

 

Alas no! The A6M3 model 32 had the same wings than the earlier A6M2 model 21 or the later A6M3 model 22. The main difference was the clipped tips!

 

The A6M5 wings were noticeably shorter. For this reason, you cannot simply clip the 21st century wings. You shall first lenghten them... :-(

 

The attached picture shows one of the 2 thinned LG doors.

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I mentioned the cracked Doyuska canopy. This was not immediately noticeable but the line in the plastic annoyed me. I initially thought I could use the 21st century canopy. No way! The cross-section of the Doyusha upper fuselage is flatter! I finally concluded the only way to solve this was to cut the canopy in two parts to remove the cracked section and replace it with part of the 21st century one. Oh man, I hate doing this with clear parts! To be frank, I'd prefer using a new Doyusha part but I do not hope finding as replacement canopy anwhere... :thumbsup: I hope I'll succeed in hiding the seam in the frame.

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