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Mystery project??


Jack

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JACK,

HAVE FOUND IN MY 38 FILES AND BOOKS,PICTURE OF REAR radar operators station.And a angle shout fo the nose as well.Will send copies to u this coming monday by airmail to u.Need u'er address again.Lost the other after going through the list of guys i have done biz with.Let me know what u think.Larry

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, recovering from the "almost" disaster with the Kingfisher, i decided to continue "therapeutic-wise" on the P38M.

I have to say it's a relieve from the former project, only doing some kit bashing on the radarobserver part, and it's coming along nicely.

What i like with this kit is you can make all sorts of intermediate constructions which fit together eventually but all the gimics could be left outside this kit to my likings, e.g. the movable control surfaces and the movable gun compartment doors, but ok, they'll fit anyhow.

 

The kit needs some weight in the nose, indicating 60 grams, but the nose being a bit cramped, i decided to stuff the ammo boxes with leadfoil and every other spot which wouldn't show up when opening the gun doors. Hope it'll be enough to avoid a tailsitter. Does anyone have experience with this kit as to this problem?

 

Learning from other constructions i think i'll put a large spar right thru the main body and into both wingextensions in order to avoid a possible wing droop, and again here's the second question: Anyone having experience with this subject on the Trump P38?

 

Well, going to have a bite now, and then on with the show again......

 

talk to ye later,

 

Jack.

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Jack,

Considering the kit and this would be for the 14 revell 38's i have built other than that kit not having the gun detailing there.And this is to u as to using the engines from the trump kit or not.Then i would go with the no engines and use the weight as to what u would use where u'er at home, in the front of the engine nacelles.Just behind the oil cooler scoop.And if there is any room on either side of the cockpit flooring in the front same as the revell kit.Then go with the led foil there.

Led foil in those ammo boxes will not bring the nose down on that 38.

And if u'er wondering what i meant about weights at home.I'm referring to car weights that u balance a car wheel with.They can be cut in half with a pair of side cutters,or wire cutters here.Using BB's is not the answer here as well.Their to light weight wise as well.tried this deal several times in the past and it ain't going to work unless u want one heavy 32nd scale P-38M.Larry

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Larry, thanks for the info, and FYI i wouldn't just use the lead foil only in the ammo boxes, but as an extra together with the suggested nose filling, but now you're mentioning the "sidepockets" between the fuselage and cockpit tub, that could be another place to put it indeed.

On the nacelle issue, i was more or less convinced you couldn't just delete the internal construction (engine assembly + maingear bay together) because they are an internal structure neccessary to get the gear bay fixed inside the tail booms together with the frontal attachments for the prop spinners.......but i could be wrong, have to dig into that first.

 

thanks again,also for the tip on the wheel balancing leadparts, i got to get me some of those......

 

Jack.

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Ok, i had a closer look at all the crevices possible in the center section, and for now i could fill up as shown in the picture.

All together i'm trying to fill her up with enough lead weight, so she'll be pretty heavy by then, but then again my Kingfisher is almost the weight of a resin kit with all the two components filling.......but that model doesn't have a gear to collapse in case of........ :lol:

 

J.

post-16-1191353186.jpg

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Jack,

U'er getting there as to the weight issue.And as for the gear popping under the weight.I doubt it very much.But again and that's if u do go with the engines.One could put weight into the engine halves before u glue them together or anything that has a hollow cavity.And even consider the nose as to adding there to and make sure that u don't let the gun ports get covered over by BB's.These are the only hting that would be a help to u.And another thought as before u glue the center section parts that attach to the fuselage gondola that one could add BB's there with super glue.But don't add to much as to making sure the halves go together right without any problems developing as to the fit.That's about it for the suggestions for adding weight to the 38.Larry

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Well, putting the engine halves together filled with some lead weight is a very good one, hadn't thought of that yet!!!

 

keep you posted...

 

J.

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Learning from other constructions i think i'll put a large spar right thru the main body and into both wingextensions in order to avoid a possible wing droop, and again here's the second question: Anyone having experience with this subject on the Trump P38?Jack.

 

 

Hi Jack,

 

 

Generally I lurk here rather than contribute, primarily because I am such a slow builder and don't have much to offer. However, I am working on the Hobbycraft Version of Trump's P-38 (essntially the same kit) and I tackled the nose weight differently. Originally I started by adding weight to the engines using small BB shot, but quickly realized that the weight needed for this kit will place an enormous strain on the gear as well as possibly give you the dreaded upwards wing droop. My solution is to mount the aircraft in flight with gear partially retracted just after rotation.

 

Benefits:

No worries about broken landing gear struts

No wing droop problem

Because of the way the P-38's gear retracts, no work needed on the nose wheel well (will be closed up)

Don't have to worry about the monstrosities that Trump gave us for props

 

Disadvantages:

Had to modify the main gear to mount in semi-retracted position

Have to modify The Revell P-38 pilot, paint him, and get him to fit around all the Eduard PE I'm adding in the cockpit(this is the biggest problem I face)

Had to come up with a way to mount the plane

 

I was originally going to just fill in the holes on the spinners and mount them to the booms. But a recent posting in one of Hyperscale's postings showing an inflight Spitfire has given me a new way of simulating the prop.

 

Anyway, Good luck with the kit, there are a lot of areas that need some cleaning up (sink marks, injector pin marks) and I have to make some custom decals yet for mine. Not sure how I am going to do that yet.

 

Carl Smoot

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Hi Carl,

 

thanks for the input, but i'm planning on building it on it's wheels, so indeed i'll have to figure a "ballance" between counterweight and strength for the gear legs, but i think i'll go anyway for loading up the engine halves and with the weight already distributed along the ammo bay and nose and cockpitarea it should be sufficient....i hope... :lol:

 

but your configuration is very interesting, i sure would like to see some piccies at the end if you don't mind!

 

happy modelling,

 

Jack.

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The stock landing gear might posably snap i had alot of weaight in my nose and i mean alot ask larry i sent him all the guns and crap, I may have used a hole box of lead pellets i think and it did make the nose gear kinda weak.

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