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Found 5 results

  1. Hi all, I'm looking for photo(s) showing the plywood Schick-Johnson seat (pls no drawing or sketches). I found only this picture (see link) but this indicate in my opinion the SJ-seat for the P-51A (by comparing with drawing 91-53074) Link to picture Hope the community can help. I have already made the drawing, but I would like to know if the seat was really fabricated according to the drawing. Additional does somebody has the original SJ metal seat drawing # 95-100. I think this drawing is property of the SJ company and not easy to get (metal seat used only on D model according Tourist-51 or P-51B/C restored after WWII). From left to the right: - 3D Print SJ-Plywood - Improved Resin for TRM from Lone Star Models (Mike West) - TRM seat (designed for hobbit-Pilots) - 3D Print SJ-Metal - TAM SJ-Metal TAM Regards Ralph
  2. Admin/Moderators, please move to correct area if this isn't appropriate place. I’m really wondering if I need to clear out some of my stash of older kits. I know most the old Revell 1/32 kits date from the 60s and have been reissued several times AND by and large been eclipsed by far better kits. The only one I’m not sure about is the Revell Hurricane Mk I. IIRC, the molds were modified to produce the cannon equipped version Mk II. Is that right? I have fond memories of building the Corsair, P-40, P-47, Typhoon, Spitfire Mk I, Wildcat, Stuka and Zero and maybe others…and may even build the P-40 as a lark as I remember it being a decent looking model…despite being an E in AVG markings. What about the SBDs? Former Matchbox IIRC. Neither opened, but expect them to be of the same era and lacking as badly as the P-47 and P-51B. Same with the P-38J kit. Having the Trumpeter, I doubt I’ll build one and don’t need two. On the old Hasegawa and Hasegawa/Minicraft kits, they are largely of the early seventies. Are the old M-109E and Fw190s decent kits? I’m not much of a German a/c builder, though thinking these might be good projects to learn on. While improvements over the Revell kits, are they reasonable accurate or do they have major shape/fit issues? I think the 109G14 is a much later and better kit. Is that true? I found a 2002 date on it versus 60/70s on the others. How does the Zero compare to the Revell? What about the Oscar? These were is sealed clear poly bags I didn’t want to open so hard to compare. I certainly have a surplus of Hasegawa P-51Ds and will be shedding some of them. im working my way through Scalemates looking at various boxing’s and original tool dates. At the moment, nothing is for sale or trade, but some soon will be once I get educated a bit more. I acquired many of these from a good friend who was a retired USAF F-106/F-15 pilot and retired FedEx Captain. He died in a small plane crash a couple of years ago and his wife gave me all his kits which accounts for me having multiples. Nothing is up for sale or trade at the moment. I will list it here first when I decide what I'm doing with which kit and gauge if there is any market for these or if postage will be more than they are worth. I am hanging on to my new Hasegawa P-47s (3). I would appreciate your feedback. H-278 and 04781 H-296 and 04722 Both 04711 4749 and H-280 H-283 and H-279 H-295 and H282 (two) H-217 JS-060 and JS-073 JS-070 and JS-060 JS-086 x2 and (not shown 1086 x3) Both JS-060:400 JS-073 and ST18:4200
  3. Hi I'm looking for pictures showing the seat support on the table or bench. I searched in the internet but all pictures are only showing the top and current for me the lower part is importand. Finally the 3D drawing is almost done and before the 3D print in 1/32 start, I would like to know how good the drawing is. So does anyone of you have a seat support stored in the basement and can take pictures for me Drawing of the seat support ( was very time consuming for me) and finally the Armor-plate were the seat-support belongs Regards Ralph
  4. Hi Guys, I'm supposed to be building six FW-190D models but I got myself into a bit of a challenge with other modellers who are building the Jerry Rutman P-51B resin kit. Now I've already built the Revell D and rebuilt the Trumpeter B (as a C) and fancied another build but can't find the JR resin for love nor money and certainly didn't feel like another Trumpeter kit. So I decided to do a conversion of two Revell kits, the newer D with the spine of the old (read: ancient!) B. Here's how the fuselages line up. Not bad. Here's my proposed changes to the wings, new panel lines and shorter ammo boxes. Not exact yet, just fibre penned to guestimate what I need to do to it. Where to cut the old B fuselage. The B fuselage parts cut out and the marked up chop on the D Well, can't stop now else that's two kits ruined! All taped up to cement the spines to the fuselage halves. And what I've got at the moment. As you can see, it's a start but there is lots and lots of graft and elbow grease needed still. Regards, Bruce Crosby
  5. From the beginning this was intended to be a no-stress, fun build - and it was! Here is my $12 Revell Mustang III, ill fitting bits and all. I had a lot of fun building it, not stressing over the many ill fitting panels, and while it is barely even worthy of display anywhere, especially given the level of expertise on this site, here we are! Honest to goodness I bought it for $12. Cost me more to buy the paints for it! I will probably go back and paint the yellow leading edge band at some point. I had great fun with the decals, working them down over the VERY prominent rivets. In real life, I wonder if the thing even would have flown with all the air resistance! Those of you with eagle eyes will notice the two different sizes of 'G' on the fuselage. Yeah, well.... I had a devil of a time with the first G, it kept folding in strange ways. I thought I'd be smart and try a different way to get the other G on, and completely botched it. Oh well. And you will notice one elevator is mostly gray, while the other is camo. Yeah, my bad again. Painted one of them upside down (off the plane). Like I said, no stress! And I was getting ready to go all crazy detailing the wheel wells, till I noticed Revell doesn't provide any linkage to pose the doors open. Which is screwy considering how much detail they mold into the wheel well itself. Sooo.. got some Blue Tack and positioned the doors coming open (or closed depending on your perspective). I like that actually. I may go back later and do some weathering, oil stains, etc. We'll see. I'm already have way through a 1/72 Helldiver that was given to me so talk about a shock of scale! Thanks for looking and for all the nice comments here and on my other builds. It's fun!
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