Colin F

Acetone soak.

I get white foam board from my craft store and line my spraybooth with it. Easily reversed and swapped out when I want a nice new clean and bright surface. I just wedge them in.

The biggest problem with plastic booths are dust, I’ve found. They can build up a hell of a static charge and draw dust into the area and onto your painting surface. It’s one reason why most of the pro level booths are metal, and are grounded through their power cord.

Another home made unit..

XF-81 is called “Dark Green 2 (RAF)” LP-56 is also called “Dark Green 2” The bottle caps look very similar on Tamiya’s site, but the color swatches they provide are very different. I’ve learned to not go by those anyway. Can anyone say if these paints are the same color?

It’s extremely dry humidity where I live this time of year and I’m running into what I believe is a static electricity problem in the paint booth. My models are like dust magnets. I use a homemade booth that’s essentially foam board on top of cardboard with a plastic container housing the blower fan - I know these surfaces can become charged. I also know that the very process of dry air going through the hose to the airbrush can cause static electricity. Any recommendations to mitigate this? Dryer sheets - are they safe to wipe down models prior to paint? Mist the inside surfaces of the booth with water?

It’s important to add that the Slow-Dri being mentioned is the Additive, not the Medium, both of which exist in the Liquitex lineup. Additionally, Flow-Aid is a concentrate. It’s meant to be diluted 1:20 with water or thinner right out of the bottle. So, it’s not 5% to an airbrush cup, it’s 5% to a thinner mix which you’ll then thin your paint with as normal.