thierry laurent Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 I also came back to the spine panel lines problems. As mentioned some days ago, I tried using a more souple tape than the Dymo one: Do not be surprised seeing the upper fuselage tied on a wood plank with rubber bands! Correcting the LERX creates some tension in the upper fuselage part. I hope that this will progressively re-flatten the upper fuselage to help in mating it with the lower section. Sharkmouth and Zero77 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 Here's the result: As I initially thought, this is indeed working! The main problem is that getting a straight line with the softer tape ask for attention! Zero77 and Sharkmouth 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 And now, here's the next one... Having straight ones is one thing but getting parallel ones is even more difficult... Well, even if this is not going to be perfect as CAD-designed ones may be, this will be far better than the Revell fantasy ones! Sharkmouth and Zero77 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 Damn it! I misplaced the second line! Ok, I made a new one and will have to fill the prior one... :-( Working too quickly on the project is really not a good idea... As mentioned in the main forum, I'll try to publish soon some pictures of some of the pit components. See you. Sharkmouth and Zero77 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Hi folks, as promised, here's a set of pictures of some of the resin pit parts. You see here the TAC scale tub. I already mentioned in the discussion forum the two main problems of the pit: the too close front bulkhead to remove and the badly proportioned seat headset. In fact, there's another noticeable issue: the floor area under the IP should be higher than the seat area level whereas the resin one is wrongly lower. I put the Eduard part in the resin tub and you'll see that it may be used to correct this as the width is compatible. Obviously I put the Eduard part in the opposite side in the tub to show the difference! Some details will also have to be added on the rear bulkhead as the seat is not so close to it. Sharkmouth and Zero77 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Thanks! The rear deck also asks for correction. I sawed the box (visible on the right side) and put the Zacto part close to it (the one on the left). This shows immediately that the dimensions of the resin set box are off. In this case, I've an easy solution! I'm neither too fond of the resin canopy seam on the deck part... Eduard gives a nice deck part BUT the canopy seam is obviously flatter (too flat!) AND the width is too large (tailored for the Revell kit WITHOUT correction). So, I'm still hesitating... I'm considering this strategy: 1. Remove the resin details from the deck 2. Cut a wedge-shaped section in the middle of the photoetched deck 3. Correct the width of the resin deck to adapt it on the kit or simply make a new one in plastic card. 4. Add the two parts made out of the photo-etched deck and hide as much as possible the seam in between. 5. Add the removed resin details as well as scratchbuilt ones Time will tell...! Zero77 and Sharkmouth 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 I did not take pictures of the IP, glare shield or canopy sill resin parts but they are generally OK. They just ask for some small details to be added. The main question with the IP will be the consequence of the correction of the floor height... So, I'll possibly have to use the upper part of the Eduard IP included in the TAC scale set with the lower part of the Eduard interior set. Another problem to assess! Now, We'll have a look at the seat problem I mentioned. Here's a view of the TAC seat. It is very nicely detailed and molded but... Zero77 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 ... the head set looks far too large and if you want to be convinced, compare it with the Quickboost seat one... Ouch! Sharkmouth 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 And here's another view: It is useless saying that this asks for change! If the Quickboost was not so available and so cheap, I'd have used the MIG-29M headset on the TAC scale seat. However, I may be lazy and in this case, I've no problem admitting it ;-) I'm also having a look at the front landing gear... Wait and see! Sharkmouth and Zero77 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Ok, As promised, we'll have a look at the front landing gear. Here's a view of the Revell leg... not very convincing to say the least. A lot of details are either missing either oversimplified either wrong...Ouch! Zero77 and Sharkmouth 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 And now, look at the assembled Trumpeter leg. Even if I still had to add the light on the Revell part, there is absolutely no comparison! If you want to have one reason to get the Trumpeter kit, I think this one is sufficient! Zero77 and Sharkmouth 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Many small details have yet to be added but globally the part is correct and far stronger thanks to the metal core. However, this also creates a problem. Indeed, the rear section of the leg (behind the wheel axis) is not plain on the full-scale leg. So, as the following picture shows it, it was necessary to open the missing holes... It is a true pain as the metal is VERY hard..! After one full evening of work with diamond files, I stopped. The result is not absolutely perfect but I could not work further on this single part! At least, this is far better and with a coat of paint, this will be acceptable. Sharkmouth and Zero77 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 And here is another view: Sharkmouth and Zero77 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 The mud scraper part is also far better than the one of the Revell kit which is - you guessed it - wrongly shaped! However, the molding is not the best. Again, one full evening was necessary to open all the holes and clean the part. The part "blades" are still too thick in comparison with the actual ones but, again, after a full evening of work on ONE part, I was fed up and stopped. A border has to be put somewhere before losing one's sanity! Zero77 and Sharkmouth 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 And now, we'll look at the front wheel well. This picture shows that with a little bit of cleaning, it is possible to get a nearly invisible seam with the belly and the part shape is correct. Zero77 and Sharkmouth 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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