thierry laurent Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 FYI, I didn't measure precisely but I think that a little bit more than 1.5mm is missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilB Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 FYI, I didn't measure precisely but I think that a little bit more than 1.5mm is missing. It seems about right to me. I have a Hasegawa G6 on the bench and in comparison I think a 2mm insert might be about right. Can always remove some if its too much! Thanks again. I'll show it on my WIP when I get round to it. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Phil, another time-saving info: Rather than adding thick plastic strip on the edge of the rudder, first cut the rounded edge with a razor saw, glue the 2mm plastic strip (do not forget to compensate the cut width) and re-glue the cut edge. Obviously, this cut is not necessary for the upper section as its internal edge is more or less flat. This should help in avoiding using putty. Thierry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilB Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Thanks Thierry but I have already done it and posted it to WIP a short time ago. The angled edge worked out fine, no filler but I will have to add some milliput to the join as I didn't think to flatten it as you suggested. It looks like there will be a panel line on the join so Milliput will be ok as you can scribe it. For your info it took very little sanding to get a good join to the fuse. Thanks again. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDavis Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Thanks Thierry but I have already done it and posted it to WIP a short time ago.The angled edge worked out fine, no filler but I will have to add some milliput to the join as I didn't think to flatten it as you suggested. It looks like there will be a panel line on the join so Milliput will be ok as you can scribe it. For your info it took very little sanding to get a good join to the fuse. Thanks again. Phil No one seems to have mentioned this option but Loon Models from Roll Models makes a full set of resin tail pieces- Rudder and horizontal surfaces for the Hasegawa kits. The rudder fits the Trumpeter kit perfectly and is very well detailed. I am using it to build a relatively accurate G-2! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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