Hubert Boillot
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Posts posted by Hubert Boillot
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Hi,
Here's my renditoin of the I.D. Models 1/32 vac-form Lancaster, just to show that there WAS a Lancaster available some years ago.
Regards,
Glenn
Hi Glen,
Your heavies are fantastic ...Somehow, I got the understanding taht you scrap your kits after you finish...
Surelky that can't be true ? 
Hubert.
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Hey buddy, welcome in the club of "those-who-have-forgotten-about-reboot-and-system-error-messages"
Just to soothe you up, my 21 year-old daughter, with normal hi-tech eduction for her age, has not yet figured out how to shut down my Imac, 3 years after the first one arrived home...
But I can't see myself ever going back to any other type of "compooter".
Hubert.
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Hi Russ,
Again a great subject that I am sure you will zip though ...
And you keep the flame alive on this GB (and not only this one of course...) with an exotic subject that brings a change from the Tonys, Georges, Zekes and al being built here (definitely not a criticism of my other very talented fellow modellers...it's just that I like the odd subject vs the mainstream one
)Whilst I am going forward and -mostly- rearward on my Hansa project, for which an update is long overdue, I will keep company to you soon with another offbeat subject, the Ki-86 Cypress aka licence-built Bücker Jungmann, built during my "off-home" times.
Keep on the entertainig postings! Look forward to them !
Hubert
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I concur with Thierry that the plans have no rivet lines indications, and with Edgar that the Sea Fury was a very clean airframe with not so many rivets visible on the skin...but not so in the insides (wheel wells for instance)
The oct. 83 issue is one of the very few issues of SMI I kept (because of the Sea Fury plans ....
). If you want a scan of these plans, just PM me...Hubert.
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Hi Ken
Sorry I cannot really help you on this one
, but if you tire of resin models, you can always go for a paper model like this one ! Looking forward to see your build on this kit.
Hubert.
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Hi John,
1. Paper models, like plastic ones, sometimes have fitting or design errors. On a well-designed paper model however, there is no reason to get a section which is "off". From my understanding, the best paper models come from Central Europe, especially Poland. I do not know where your model comes from...You will find more info on paper models on these two "reference" sites, this one in English, and if you can cope with the language, this other one in German.
2. Do remember that paper models are designed for ...
paper 
, with frames typically being 1 mm thick (cardboard or laminated paper) and skin in 120 or 160 g/sqm paper, the latter one being about 0,16 mm thick vs the standard 0,5 mm (20 thou) ou thicker plastic cards we use. This can generate discrepancies on well-designed kits if you lift the templates without correction...3. Last point to bear in mind : where you cut the paper template...Most paper models are designed with a black outline, which has a thickness. It has been and still is a key questio, as to know where to cut the template : on the line, inside the line, outside the line...and this can make a small difference on very well designed paper models, and requires trimming sometimes. Some designers have gone one step further by eliminating the design line and going for contrast between the white paper and the usually colored part.
I am not sure if this helps on your question (not sure what you meant precisely by "off" either), but hopefully it will be of some use.
Hubert.
PS: some techniques used in paper modelling can be put to good use in plastic. Worth giving these sites a look for anyone
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Hi Greg,
great work on that J1. I have bought the english ones from WNW, but am very tempetd to side with the Germans for a second round, seeing how fantastic those kits are!
I guess you are aware of the "terrrrrrrrrrible wing-gap-issue-it's-so unbeliveable-manufacturers-do mistakes-like-that" (that is the soft version of some debates on other forums- At least now the WNW team have a real life experience of what it means to be shot down in flames
). Any way, the fix is here. Keep on posting your great build.
Hubert.
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Those two hours were really worth it !
Excellent job Russ. Congrats on finishing yet another project...
Hubert.
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Great start on a cool looking aircraft Perry !
Now I guess Trumpeter will just release an injected version within days of you finishing it
If this "Perry's curse" gets proven, there are a number of us willing to help you choose your next subject after the Whirlwind !
I'll follow this build closely.
Hubert.
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Hi Nenad,
great looking subject, and superb sratchbuilding ! Congratulations on a very neat build.
I like the colourful rendition.
You did not mention the scale : is it 1/32 or 1/24 ?
Hubert.
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Ray, I was not actually worried about the wingspan difference, nor even the length one...And yes you're right, manufacturing variations could have a significant influence...
My concern was that the wing area is quoted as 14.2 sqm for the Ki-86 and 13.5 for the Jungmann. That's 5 % of the total wing area, or 10 % if it concerns just one wing, and yet the Jungmann's wings are not that big. Hiding an extra 5% area just seems an inetresting "feat" ...I'll probably just forget about it if I can't find any more conclusive evidence, and photos of the Ki-86 are hard to come by, even for an A/C with significant production numbers (hence my subtitle...)
You're right about the profile: it is so much more interesting than the plain orange scheme. I got hooked as well. The Planet Model is a nice liitle kit. Not a lot of fine details, but all basics are there, and extreemly well executed (razor thin trailing edges for instance, and subtle wing ribs...). Really worth looking for a good deal !
Cheers
Hubert.
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Thanks for the very nice shot Ray.
I agree with you it looks lke the wing on the KI-86 photo is larger outside the cabane struts, yet Profile seem to claim otherwise...Profile actually quote span of the Ki-86 as 24ft1in (7.35 m) vs the Bü 131 at 24ft3in (7.4 m). Ditto for length 6.62 m vs 6.76m for the original, but here it could come from the Hitachi engine...).
Anyone got other sources giving dimensions ot the Ki-86 vs the Bü 131.?
Hubert.
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Hello all,
Even though I am a slow builder, ( or because of it, and my doubt as to my capacity of finishing my scratchbuilt "Hansa" for the Rising Sun GB deadline), the Empire ot the Rising Sun GB triggered my interest in more obscure subjects than the traditional WWII fighters. And besides, I love colourful finishes, and am not that keen on guns'n'bombs-bristling kits...
On top, I am away from home two evenings a week, in a small flat near my company, and whilst commuting a major scratchbuilt project between two locations is not a sound idea, doing some fairly "simple" modelling during those two lonely evenings could be an attractive proposition, better than getting stupid in front of the TV anyway...
So I looked at an exotic subject, which nevertheless had more than 1 300 aircraft built under licence in Japan, i.e. the Bücker Jungmann, built for the Japanese Army as the Kokusai Ki-86a, and for the Navy as the J9W, code-name "Cypress". I just received from Hannant's Planet Models' 1/32 Jungmann, and it is a nice lttle resin kit.
I could go for the standard and colourful orange trainer finish, but I just found this photo below, which has been reproduced in decal form by CMK for 1/72. It is an attractive scheme, and the pilot's scarf makes it even more interesting: I am sure this guy is Russ' "Grrrrr..." pilot during his training days !
:lol: Now can knowledgeable people help me with a photo of the starboard side, if any exists (otherwise I'll do some educated guesswork), and second, I have read that the Ki 86 had 14 something square meters of wings, vs the Jungmann's 13,3 i.e. + 0,7 sqm (source Profile n° 222). Does anyone have a plan that shows where this extra wing surface could have been added ?
Any help will be greatly appreciated !
(Which gives me a public opportunity to thank Hans for his generous supply of copies Scale Models Plans of the HB W29, i.e. the father of the Hansa)
Hubert.
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I bought a new addition for my 'flight-sim' stables, and I've been wasting a LOT of time ....
Tssstttt... tsssttt... So THAT is why your output is so pitifully low !
:rolleyes: 
C'mon buddy, stop playing with you compooter and get some plastic glued ! This another of your outstanding builds I going to follow with interest Russ ! As usual, informative, enlightening and inspiring ...
Hubert
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Allright, it seems I am working on a 3-weeks schedule in the end, when it comes to updating this thread....
Anyway, those have not been idle weeks, even though I have little time to work on this kit, and just during the weekends...
I have completed the floats: I built the structure out of 0,5 mm plasticard, adding lead eights in the front of the floats, as I suspect the Hansa would be a tail-sitter otherwise...
The top of the floats was shaped in 2mm-thick plasticard, sanded to a round top shape. There were some kind of caps on the floats. They were slightly recessed. After unsuccessfully trying to mill this shallow circle, I resorted to scrap 0,5 mm-deep, 6mm-square recesses in the thick plasticard, in which I subsequently glued thin plasticard squares, with a 5 mm centre punched with the punch'n'die set...To decrease the depth of the circles, I then glued inside 0,25 mm circles punched in the same way...
Once the float shape was achieved, I glued the anti-skid strakes. They were fairly prominent on the original, being thick wood strakes. They were done using Evergreen 30-thou square strips....
The caps on top of the floats are rounded and metallic, whereas the floats were in wood...The scale versiuons have been turned in an aluminiumu rod, on my old, but faithful, Unimat-1 lathe, as were the struts bearings points on the floats. These were conical-shaped, set at a 45° angle. Turning the cones was lengthy...but cutting them at the right angle and achieving a consistent size was a real PITA ...
This is where I stand today (the aluminium parts have not been glued...) Next step is painting the floats and cutting the struts, before moving on to the wings...
Next to the floats is an attempt at doing a wood propeller. At same stage in their career, the Hansas were fitted with 4-bladed propellers (the head -blurred- photo of this thread shows actually the profile of a 4th blade...), whereas they initially had 2-bladed ones...
I was fairly happy with my work, when I realised I got the pitch wrong !
The Hisso used on the Hansas was apprently a geared version, turning clockwise when viewed from the front, and not anti-clockwise as I assumed initially...More to come...in-three weeks time !
Hubert.
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WOW Russ !
Fantastic build, neat cammo, clean assembly: I am toning down my commentaries for lack of appropriate superlatives !
I am definitely learning a lot on this site, including enriching my thesaurus for words meaning speed.
I knew lightning-fast, rabbit-fast (for love-making
), road-runner fast, warp-sumthin for really fast ...now I can add to my vocabulary "rutzelkampf-fast" for finishing something before anyone else has even contemplated thinking about doing it ! Example : "Yes honey, I am going to do the dishwashing and the lawn mowing rutzelkampf-fast, before I glue some plastic bits !"
:lol: Great job buddy ! But I have a plea : will you just leave us a bit of time to do some actual modelling in-between watching your own builds ?
Hubert.
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If you can cope with a bit of French (and even if not, as there are many self-explanatory photos), there is a great build on the French site Master194
Hubert
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Hi Supermario,
I am following this build in "stereo" on this forum and the Master194 Racer GB forum...Great work you have achieved so far. Please keep posting this truly inspirational build !
I can see you also went for a new very literal meaning to the expression "bringing some new blood to a project"
I am not sure though that Grosvenor House red was this type of red... Anyway, I'll keep watching this build with great interest.
Hubert.
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out of interest, won't you get clobbered with a customs bill for a package of that (£) size?
that's the one bummer of ordering from outside EU - you get shafted by HM Customs AND The Royal Mail!!! :angry: :angry: :angry:
Let me know if there is a way round it...pleeeeease.
Nick
Hi Nick,
As far as I remember from my days in the VAT-Refund business, the amount of duties is levied when the value of the pack exceeds the minimum amount required for non-EU residents to benefit from the Tax Refund when exporting goods out of the EU.
For instance in France, you benefit from VAT-Refund if your purchases exceed 175 Euros, and pay duties if your import is worth more than 175 Euros.
The UK Tax refund minimum is GBP 30...If my reasoning is right, thre is not much way to escape paying VAT when importing from NZ.
Hubert.
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Well, I did like many of you...
:lol: ..actually shared Dave's tastes...Just ordered the Biffie and the SE5...The J1 was tempting also, but I'll wait for this one somewhat more. Now let's see how to clear some space in my stash stash.
One of those could actually be a good candidate for the LSP 10th anniversary group build ...
Hubert.
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Great looking Oscar Russ !
Well done. Can't wait to see your Frank weathered !
HUbert.
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I have been off this topic for some time, but not quite idle...Yet I feel dwarfed when I see the speed of buildling of some members of this GB (and I am not only talking of Russ' legendary "faster than his shadow" speed
) ...So this is just a "pride reaction"
with this quick and small update to show that I have made some progress and doing something...The issue with off-beat subjects as the one I have chosen is the lack of documentation. I mentioned that the "Hansa" was a licence-built Hansa-Brandenburg W33, on the basis of statements I found on the net. This actually is not true, and I started to have doubts when I blew up to scale-size the photo in my firts post. The engine at this legnth was way too long for a V8 Hispano-Suiza (more on this issue later). Then I stumbled upon the ARAWASI magazine (www.arawasi.jp and their #7 issue had an article about the "Hansa". This confirmed that the Japanese acquired the licence for the W29, NOT the W33 (the W29 was roughly one-fifth smaller than the W33)...
A quick look at the very nice ARAWASI magazine :
But I had started to draft drawings of a W33-based "Hansa", using the Harry Woodman's plans I got from a June 1978 Airfix agazine issue :angry: :angry: :angry: ! So When I received the ARAWASI issue, I had to start my drawings all over again !
Then there is the engine question...The power range indicates a "B" or "C" version of the Hisso. On the other hand, Japan started to build the "Hansa" in 1921, at about the same time as they started production under licence of the Nieuport 29, which had a 300 HP "F" engine, with a bigger bore (140 mm vs 120 mm) and stroke than the earlier "B" version, and the engine was manufactured by Mitusbishi as the type "Hi" (same designation for the Hansa and the Ni 29). The "F" was 30 cm longer overall than the "B", i.e. close to 1 cm at this scale !
I had ordered the Roden V8 engine, but when I received it, started to doubt whether it was right for the "Hansa" . The cylinder block of the Roden is less than 2cm long...There is no way a cylinder block this short could accomodate 4 cylinders with 140 mm stroke
:huh: 
Then maybe Roden's rendition is a bit "underscale"... I am still pondering this one, but in the meantime have decided that maybe the Hisso for the old Revell SPAD XIII would be a better choice. . Most likely, I will use a bit of artistic licence and use this one rather than Roden's kit ....Fortunately my wife does not know how much I have spent already for just getting documentation and now two engines...
So I have redone the drawings (finding drawings of the W29 was not easy either, as the Windsock issue is out of print but I finally found some I could blow up to scale..)...I have just drawn what was specific to the Hansa, and produced some "plastic cutting" blueprints out of those...
Here is my work to date ...As I drafted on calc paper, with my old tubular pens, I have had some "ink-bleeding" , and the drawings are not as tidy as they should be, but they will do the job anyway...
And I have started cutting some plastic !
The structure for the floats is just visible besides the cover of the ARAWASI issue ...
More to come (hopefully not in 3 weeks' time
)Hubert.
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If it is the old Pyro kit (and I believe it is), than beware it is closer to 1/26th than 1/32. Ditto for the Lair Turner Meteor...
Hubert.
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Jon,
Do you have any good interior cockpit shots you could share? I was thinking of starting my Scratchbuilers kit of this bird but after playing around with it the fit of most of the parts is so horrible and the cockpit needs to be seriousily redone.
Mark H.
Loic has provided a fantastic link in his own thread, really worth a double look. HERE is the link to the J7W1 control panel page.
And the site j-aircraft.com is very useful as well. The walkaround pages HERE has, among others, interesting photos of the prototype Shinden at the NSAM Garber storage facility.
None of the sites has provided info for my own topic though! :angry:
Jon, great work on the Shinden. I will follow this one closely, as it was a really interesting plane !
Hubert.
Kayaba KA-1/or-2
in Empire of the Rising Sun
Posted
Impressive !
one nit-picking comment though : you should have placed the F-104 near the fins of the B-70, given the history of both A/C...
Yes fell free to tell me this is a bad taste comment, but I could not help ... (shame on me ...) !
This said I can't wait to see more of your Kayaba build...
Hubert