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Thunnus

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  1. Thunnus
    Thanks for checking in! The putty on metal is an interesting look and has been modeled before. But this is just a temporary stop for us. We're going to cover all of that next. First up is the RLM 76 Light Blue bottom. A highly thinned Tamiya mixture is used to make sure that the putty lines are not completely covered up. Not much tonal variation in this coat as it lacks any of my customary pre-shading but we can add visual interest to the bottoms in other ways. After the Light Blue is completed, I apply the RLM 83 Dark Green on the upper surfaces. This is a Mr Hobby Aqueous color. Due to the contrast between the Dark Green and the silver, I can achieve a bit of tonal variation in this coat. It takes patience to build up the layers of thin paint... almost have to go panel by panel. Eventually we cover the entire aircraft with RLM 76 on the bottom and RLM 83 on the top. I'll let this dry before I paint chip the wing root area and impart some wear onto the RLM 83/76 finish.
  2. Thunnus
    Beautiful Focke Wulf, Tolga! I really like the color scheme... the RLM81 adds a nice touch!
  3. Thunnus
    Thanks guys! The comments are greatly appreciated! This is my third 1/32 Dora build and I've always tried to add something new with each build. This time it was the wood props (which isn't really noticeable). Oh yeah... speaking of the prop, Henri Daehne makes such beautiful prop assemblies, complete with a detailed hub, that I just had to find a way to make the spinner removable. I used small magnets...
  4. Thunnus
    Great looking Ki-100! I've always found it amazing that they were able to take a inline engine fighter design, shoe-horn a radial engine into that airframe and make a successful fighter plane out of it.
  5. Thunnus
    The putty lines have been added to the model. After considering different options including brush painting, I sprayed them with my Paasche V, which has a smaller needle/nozzle than my Iwata and I'm able to get a finer spray pattern. Ideally, the putty marks should be hard edged but since all of this will be buried under the RLM83/76 camo, I went with the speediest technique and free-handed it without masks. The wing roots were sprayed with hairspray. I'll let that dry thoroughly before I put the RLM 83 Dark Green over it. But I can start on the RLM 76 bottom at any time. I may have to re-do the tail stabilizers that I painted earlier as they may not match the rest of the camo now that I have changed from a dark to light base.
  6. Thunnus
    Thanks so much for the comments! I appreciate it! There is no build log of Red 1 here at LPS so I thought I'd share some highlights of the construction. I had planned on using the Quickboost resin radiator cowling and gun cowling but due to some issues of fit, I decided not to. Instead, I re-shaped the kit radiator cowling by spinning it on a Dremel. The exaggerated valley between the guns on the gun cowling were filled and shaped with Milliput. I used the Aires resin cockpit with HGW harnesses on this one. The kit wing guns and covers were replaced with Quickboost resin replacements and brass tubing for the barrels as the Quickboost barrels were warped. All exterior surfaces were riveted using RB Production's Rivet-R tool. Lots of wiring was added to the engine plug. The Henri Daehne prop blades were painted as wood even though the minor chipping made this all but unnoticeable in the end.
  7. Thunnus
    Some more pics...
  8. Thunnus
    Here is my recently completed 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 build of the JV44 Dora flown by Heinz Sachsenberg known as "Red 1". In addition to the kit parts, I've added the following aftermarket items to the build: 1. Aires 190D-9 resin cockpit set 2. Eduard 190D-9 brass flaps 3. Quickboost 190A gun barrels 4. Eagle Editions 190A/190D-9 Early resin tail wheel 5. Henri Daehne VS111 resin prop 6. HGW 1/32 Luftwaffe seat belts 7. Montex Masks 8. Eagle Cal decals
  9. Thunnus
    Great looking late war Focke- Wulf!
  10. Thunnus
    Awesome build. There is something hypnotically satisfying looking at how large the cockpit/canopy is in your hands.
  11. Thunnus
    Thanks guys! I'm satisfied with the way that the tail mottle turned out. That Silhouette Portrait cutter is very useful tool! Yes, Alan... I think this point has been established and acknowledged a few posts up. It's a mistake that I'm going to live with because I am not going to dig out those slats at this point in the build. The outer ones MIGHT be removable with minimum damage but not the inner ones and probably not the middle ones. I did some extensive puttying/sanding/re-puttying/gouging/CA glueing/puttying on that starboard inboard slat that.... ummm, I'm just not going to go there. So, I'll chalk it up as an opportunity lost. Let's say Yellow 3 is being prepared for transport as III./KG(J) 54 was reassigned from bomber to fighter duties.
  12. Thunnus
    Thanks Brian! I've added some additional weathering on the tires. Mostly to dirty up the sidewalls. I also had to re-treat the tread grooves with a dark wash. Every time I tried to lighten the tread surfaces with dry pastels, the grooves got that much lighter. In the end, I dry-brushed a lighter dusty grey color and put wash in the grooves one final time.
  13. Thunnus
    Ok... back to work on the 262! Based on the information that the nose, from the cannon doors forward, was made of steel and not airframe aluminum, I painted the nose a darker metallic shade. It was a mixture of two Aclad shades: Steel and Airframe Aluminum. I decided to tackle the tail mottling next. Probably a highlight for me since it is one of the defining features of this aircraft. The plan was to paint the darker color first and then use bits of Blue-Tack to represent the mottles. The green was Tamiya Black Green. The Blue-Tack idea wasn't working out. Although I've used it successfully on smaller 1/48 builds such as the Bf109K-4 rudder, it was hard to get the pieces of Blue-Tack to stuck onto the model. I gave that up and decided to try and create custom masks using my Silhouette Portrait cutter. The Experten Decals sheet has beautiful profiles of both sides by Tom Tullis. Those were scanned and imported into AutoCAD. I then traced the mottles and exported them to DXF format for cutting. The masks were placed onto the tail using the profiles as a guide. The tail was then sprayed a lighter than normal shade of RLM76, based on the notes in the Experten instructions. The masks were carefully removed and the hard edged "tadpole" mottling is revealed. There are some soft edges and overspray that need to be corrected but overall, the result is pretty good. I got some dreaded paint lift on the starboard side. Using a piece of Tamiya tape, I removed as much of the compromised paint as I could and then buffed out the edges of the removal with Micromesh. The tail will be masked when I paint the camo so I wanted to be as pro-active as possible on the repair. The masks were re-used to repair the lifted paint areas. Any soft edges or overspray was touched up with an airbrush or by hand. Here is the other side after touch-ups. Compare the mottles on the model with the profile... fairly spot-on. I'm happy! I need a kick in the pants to start the next stage, which is to establish the puttied/painted seams. I still have not decided HOW I'm going to do this... brush paint? Airbrush?
  14. Thunnus
    Thanks for that clarification! I can't go back and undo the work on the slats without destroying the slat pieces. But I'll remember this for future builds... live and learn!
  15. Thunnus
    And hence the difference in coloration visible in the photos of WNr. 111711? I did not know that but noticed the difference in color. Yes, I think I will account for that but maybe with greys instead of metallics.
  16. Thunnus
    Thanks guys! Landing gear will be down. I chose to pose the leading edge slats in the closed position because (a) it looks cleaner, IMO and (b) it was simpler to do than posing them dropped. It was at a point where I wanted to move this build along and I made a number of decisions that simplified things like posing the canopy closed and the slats closed. Not all 262's on the ground had their slats dropped did they? Didn't appear to be so based on the photos I've been looking at. There were a lot of things bothering me about trying to black-base this 262 AND incorporate hairspray chipping in certain areas AND establish the putty/anti-corrosive paint under the camo colors. It just wasn't meshing in my head. The change to silver clarifies things for me since it will approximate the base conditions of the actual aircraft. I will apply grey paint (either by paint brush or airbrush) to mimic the example shown by WNr. 111711. This will serve as the base for the RLM83/76 camo to come. The only thing I have not accounted for is the tonal variation that would be provided by either the black-base or black mottle approach. I think it can be accomplished in a different way but first things first... getting the grey primer on.
  17. Thunnus
    Thanks guys! This will no longer be a black-base build. I've done and sprayed the whole thing silver. Decanted Tamiya AS-12, thinned with Tamiya Lacquer thinner and some Mr Leveling thinner to help even out the coat. The plan now is to establish the putty lines and then apply hairspray over the wing roots to facilitate chipping afterwards. Not sure if I'll add some mottling to give the camo some tonal variation... maybe some color other than black.
  18. Thunnus
    Thanks for the comments everyone! Thank you Vincent! You bring up a very good point and it was something that I thought about but decided against representing. Two primary reasons. Firstly, it's hard to make a model without surface detail look realistic. I'm sure there are ways but they are beyond me. Secondly... I know it was the intention of the Luftwaffe to eliminate the surface imperfections on the 262 using putty but I'm doubtful as to how successful they were. And since Yellow 3 was a well used aircraft, I am thinking that a model with visible rivets and panel lines may not be entirely inaccurate.
  19. Thunnus
    I love the Griffon Spitfires! The cockpit work is amazing!
  20. Thunnus
    The G-10 is turning out beautifully! I love the spiral!
  21. Thunnus
    Incredible work. I have a hard time distinguishing between photos of the model and photos of the real airplane. Really.
  22. Thunnus
    Thank you so much for checking in with this build! Comments are greatly appreciated! Due to limited time over the weekend, I've held off on starting the main painting. Instead, I occupied myself by painting the Barracuda resin wheels. Much effort was made to make the tread grooves darker than the tread surfaces.
  23. Thunnus
    Thanks guys! It's good to be working on the 262 again! I applied some Mr Surfacer 1000 to some seam imperfections on the engine nacelles so I turned to the other outer components to start the camo painting process while the putty cured. The base black was broken up using Tamiya Neutral Grey. RLM 76 Light Blue was sprayed on the appropriate parts. Halfway through painting the undersides of the horizontal stabilizers, I sprayed the main panel lines with a dark grey to simulate the putty along the seams. Here are the parts after the RLM76. The uppers were similarly treated but with RLM83 Dark Green. The areas around the panel lines are lighter to represent the putty underneath. When I get to the fuselage, I may buff away some of the green along the panel lines using Micromesh to get more of a wear effect. The horizontal stabilizers were given some base weathering including a panel wash, some post-shading and a small bit of chipping. The stain on the upper side of the starboard stabilizer is from decal solution but has since been removed. The control surfaces after painting... The main landing gear covers... The nose landing gear doors... The errant seams were sanded and re-painted in gloss black. That's all for now!
  24. Thunnus
    Thank you Gaz! Finally have something new to report! Sorry for the delay in posting. I was out of country for the past two weeks. Prior to that I didn't want to start on the next major step of painting and then have to pull off for 2-3 weeks so all in all... too much delay! So I'm back in the US and re-adjusting to this time zone. Luckily, this was my Friday off so I was able to spend some time in the modeling room and begin the painting process for the 262. I've decided to black base this bugger. And so the first step is very simple... just paint it black! I used Mr Hobby Lacquer paint thinned with a mixture of Tamiya Lacquer thinner and Mr Leveling Thinner. The first session was interrupted by dinner. I resumed the black base after dinner. No need for a total gloss coat since I won't be metalizing this bird overall, just at the wing roots. The black base revealed a few minor seam imperfections that I'll work on after the paint cures. That will probably delay the continuation of painting on the body for at least a day or two. I've also painted the wing control surfaces and landing gear covers so I can proceed with those. I was hoping to have received a Badger Sotar to help make the black base effect more fine but I have no idea when it will arrive. I'll have to make do with the tools that I have on hand. May have to bust out my old school Paasche V.
  25. Thunnus
    Thanks so much Andy! It is good to be back. Not just to be modeling again but excited about modeling! For a while there, I was wondering if the interest would ever return. The time off has given me an additional dose of patience with some of the set-backs I've experienced like seams being a bugger to get right. I'm at the point where the real fun begins... painting! But I have to hold off because of travel. I'll probably bust out the Barracuda wheels and start the paint work on them to keep me partially occupied while I spend the rest of my time packing.
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