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radial

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Posts posted by radial

  1. I'm sure there WAS a 32nd scale plastic kit of the Staggerwing. I had one, in bright yellow plastic. Can't think of the makers name though....

     

    Tim

    Was the old Staggerwings Unlimited kit popped from the '60s ITC mold. Many mods needed to make a decent model. Prop, cowl,glass,landing gear,full cockpit and all exterior details. But a lot easier than a total scratchbuild. The kits are still available at vendors booths and on line for 90-200 dollars. Mine below.

    a451bfa3.jpg

  2. You see from the lack of response to your topic, there is no interest in GA a/c. Thus, no market value. Decided 10 yrs. ago not to be frustrated by this and decided to either scratchbuild or do conversions. How about a mono coupe or boring all polished aluminum Cessna 120/140. No guns no bombs no problem.

  3. Brian,

    Thanks for your generous comments. As for a WIP, with my total lack of typing and computer skills I'd never complete a build. I do admire your ability to do a WIP and bring it to completion. BTW IMO your Dixie Boy is the quintessential Mustang build.

     

    Day walker, see you at Mad City right after da Bears win the Superbowl!

     

    Maru, thank you for your unbridled enthusiasm. It brings joy to my cynical soul.

     

    All the rest of you fellas, I appreciate your kind comments!

  4. This is a Waco YMF5, currently in 1:1 production by the Waco Aircraft Corp. in Battlecreek MI. They are faithfully reproducing the 1934 A/C using modern materials, advanced engine technology and avionics. These A/C are built to the buyers specifications which includes; custom cockpit materials and exterior paint color combinations at a cost of $400K.

    Construction: Paul Matt plans were used as the basis of the build. The fuselage is vacuum-formed from a wood mold. The wings are solid resin. Tail surfaces and L.G. Leg fairings are plexiglas. The cowl was kit bashed from bin as was the 7 cyl. Engine. The pants are from a Williams Bros. kit. The cabanas and struts were made out of aluminum tube and brass. The Prop is machined and polished aluminum.

    Really, tried and true scratch building methods.

    Paint and details: The A/C was base coated automotive primer after which panels were scribed and Archer Decals rivets and louvers were applied. More primer and then the color coat. The colors are custom mixedK PPG automotive lacquers applied with a Grex Tritium A/B. The decals were made by Ad Astra. Ian designed and produced from crude drawings and photos. Most impressed with his quality and service.

     

    On to the pics.....c6ddaa07abf416f12fe44d5ecffe017c.jpgfc926d15d7eb2ccb402edda2f9e456ce.jpg2bcae16b6def57d301eb3d45c94eee5f.jpga1223755d99b9f0670bdf7ef16747324.jpg10e26bcbddd6c863f501990b7fd6a84e.jpg

  5. Can't stand it any longer. You are doing such an outstanding job on the exterior and the color scheme, you really really must reconsider your decision not to do a cabin and windows. How about a half cabin. Just put plate below the IP and cut some 1/24 automotive seats in half and fake in the rest. A cool build no matter what!

  6. It is amazing the number of shades of reds. I painted an a/c recently in red and ended up using Duplicolor touch up paint. It is lacquer and mixes 3:1 with lacquer thinner and is available everywhere. At the very least you'll be able to establish the shade you want. Don't forget the white base coat. Like your build!

  7. Judging from the beautiful woodwork you've displayed on your site,you definitely have the talent to fab a/c molds. Making wood molds for vac form and resin casting can't be taught. I'm on my fifth 30's era scratch a/c now thinking at the start much the same as you;basic air frame, other existing kit parts. How hard can it be? What I learned is there are no simple airframes. If there is a kit out there of the a/c you want source it and pay any price. My current scratch a/c is nearing the $800 mark for materials alone. If there is no kit; go for it. There is no reason with your skills that you could achieve a very good model.

  8. Your detailing and seats look great. Don't be too concerned with some slight size inaccuracies. Even with the seemingly large windows ,it's amazing how little of the cabin is actually visible due to the top wing arrangement. Excellent work, keep it goin.

  9. I to am a novice to resin casting and am enjoying this discussion. I would avoid using talc as my experience was it created voids in the final cast. After many tries with talc I gave up. What worked much better was 91% iso alcohol both to prep the mold and release the part. Have you sprayed your reject parts with primer? May be a bummer because what I thought were perfect parts showed 100s of tiny pinholes that effectively ruined the parts. Btw the alcohol must be completely dry. All moisture of any kind creates voids.

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