Heinkel He 111

[Roy vd M.]

LOL!  Hey Roy!

I only am considering making the bomb cells from scratch after looking at your photos.  The large 8 sided holes in the sides of the Eduard PE parts are WAY too large, plus there is the reinforcements on the sides that are not part of the Eduard parts.  Eduard does a very good job for the most part but once in a while they just miss the mark.

 

They are too large indeed. Maybe they did this so that the interior becomes better visible through the 'windows' / hatches. See here part of my main reference image as regards measurements:

 

 

Well there are MANY things not present in the Eduard set but they can all be scratched fairly easily. I'll show their builds in a further part of my scratchbuild series And there are slits that shouldn't be there. And there are only 4 keyholes per cell where in reality it should be 8. Etc. 

 

All very understandable but when scratched it can be made better. 

 

I personally don't like the self adhesive PE they put out.  The adhesive is gooey and this type of "stick-um" loses it's grip over time.  In additionif you need to bend a part that has the glue, it can be a problem.  On the Ju 88 I am building (sorry no posts yet, but lots of photos taken)  The instrument panel has a bend on the lower left side.  With the glue this is a problem to deal with.  I figured out that the glue can be carefully scraped off and a gentle wipe with a "DAMP" swab with a little paint thinner to get the residue off.  Too much and you could possibly damage the printing on the front.

 

I agree, I'd never use the sticking-on way again. On the next picture you can see that the topright photo etch part (that was attached about one year before taking that picture) had sagged. Next time I'll try to remove the adhesive and glue it on. I'll keep your warning in mind.

 

 

Very curious to see the Ju88 progress by the way. 

 

Oh, while on front panel PE, they show just putting the front piece on top of the back instrument faces part.  Looks OK that way but thought something was missing.  Had some very thin clear sheet and put it between the 2 parts and WOW!  It gave the glass reflection over the dials AND some depth to the instruments.  Made a BIG difference with the look.  To adjust for all that thickness just thin the plastic panel part a lot and it will be fine.

 

Nice, I'll try that. I've been reading everywhere that the usual method is to add a drop of Klear or other floor polisher. Because of the photoetch layers I'll try your solution first. 

 

THanks for your nice comment on the Seimens Schuckert Roy!  That kit just got put to the side a I was working on another (Really POOR) kit and is still boxed away from my move.

 

Thanks for the drawing!  I will make a nice CAD version soon and send you a copy to use.  Glad that my suggestion was helpful.  It just seemed that you were making it harder on yourself than it needed to be and wanted to help.

 

You're welcome and thanks again

Edited March 13, 2014 by Roy vd M.

[Roy vd M.]

Small update to show an L-bent sheet piece at the bottom of the side wall of a bomb cell that isn't there in the Eduard set (although partly present in another part and nicely done at that!). Usually not necessary also, because it can't be seen when the bomb cell is (as usual) installed in the plane. But when taken out, it has to be made. 

 

Her it is:

 

[Youngtiger1]

Just saw this thread and it's amazing working here. Roy, buddy you got some amazing talent. I'll follow along and hopefully some of these amazing talent might get rubbed down on my modeling

[Roy vd M.]

What I meant was that if you were to tell ME how to build

A model and method in which to make a part Step by Step like teaching ME I would not take

offense by you showing how to build a model or how to construct whatever it was.....your method on your threads of how you

DID this or that is easy going. .

Not like you are saying that your method is the ONLY way but that you can try this . without being to like a boring Chemistry lecture 

When one might lose interest. . 

 

 

That is 100% for sure too much credit for me. As you can see very clearly in the thread I constantly have to correct myself and my methods are often improved due to suggestions by more experienced modelers than I such as Heavens Eagle. 

 

What I do think is a special feature of this thread is that I'm writing down every single step I make, not only the triumph moments but also the mistakes, and I don't delete anything. This way people get to see all the aspects of trying to build a model from a novice's point of view. 

 

By the way impressive updates on this beauty   

 

 

Thank you!

Just saw this thread and it's amazing working here. Roy, buddy you got some amazing talent. I'll follow along and hopefully some of these amazing talent might get rubbed down on my modeling   

 

 

Ah nice, a new follower!

 

I think my talent is that I can be very patient and won't stop until I find a good solution. And apparently if someone hands a better solution I'll have the patience to do it all over. And I study a LOT and make a step plan for myself before trying to tackle something. 

 

For the rest all you need is trying desperately to replicate something. 

 

Thanks for the nice compliment!

Edited March 15, 2014 by Roy vd M.

[Roy vd M.]

Almost forgot... the measurements of the bottom horizontal strip as seen on the last picture (they are not on the plan!):

 

- Strip measures 1.69mm x 13,75mm.

- 4 holes for the screws to attach to the plane. From left to right, the length between the holes: 0.88mm, 4.0mm., 4.0mm., 4.0mm., 0.88mm. All on the center line. 

- Each hole is measured to be, on scale, 0.34mm in diameter. I used a 0.3mm drill and after making the hole held the drill sideways very slightly while making a circle. Should be about right now. 

 

I'll add these numbers to a previous post containing the scan of the plan.

[Roy vd M.]

Scratchbuilding a Heinkel 111 bomb bay - part 9

 

When having the template parts prepared it's quite easy to make the pieces to be used in the actual model. 

 

Again thanks to Heavens Eagle (Paul) for the idea of superglueing the template onto the new sheet. I tried using tape and I tried pushing the parts strongly together when scribing the outlines to be removed, but it just didn't work, especially for the smaller reinforcement parts.

 

I used Pattex Gold Gel for the task and that seems to be a golden gamble as the scribing can be done perfectly AND the parts can be detached quite easily by means of a knife. Use only a small drop of glue. 

 

After detaching the parts, the glue can be easily removed by scraping it off with a blade. 

 

When glued, use a hobby knife to gently outline the area to be removed. Then detach template from new part, scrape away the glue and start scribing more fiercely (but be very accurate). Then follow the method as set out in the previous 'scratchbuilding' post. 

 

I've finished all template pieces for the side wall and have made one copy that looks like this:

 

 

Here the template, the copy and my most important reference photo:

 

 

For the front panel (with the vent holes) I'm awaiting the shipment of a brand new punch & die set, having a steel basis especially made for punching brass. 

 

Time spent building, planning, drawing plans: 76H. Studying: 43H.

[Heavens Eagle]

Looking very good Roy!  One other thing you can do to assemble your cell boxes (since they are made from brass) would be to solder them along the edges.  It is simple to do if you follow some important steps.

 

Use flux or the solder won't flow.  Pre-tin the edges lightly, just enough to have a silver colored coating with no large lumps.  Have a jig to hold the parts securely together and just heat the edges so the solder flows and connects together.  Use the solder sparingly, but be sure the iron is clean and has a little puddle of solder on it to help carry the heat to the parts to be soldered.

 

Here is a link to a thread where I was building  1/48 WW1 Hannover that had a complex cockpit that I soldered together.  There are some more bits of the build on 5 or 6 of the preceding pages that you might find interesting as well.  I should repost this to it's own thread, but don't have the time right now.  http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/135251.aspx?sort=ASC&pi240=52

 

Keep up the good work Roy!

[Roy vd M.]

Thanks Paul for the advice, but I most probably won't solder them together. The reason is that I can't solder, I have a trauma from soldering in highschool and am afraid I'm gonna ruin my hard work. Also soldering is not necessary per se, because I'll simply use the internal L-pieces as connectors (just like the real deal).

 

Also I'm afraid that if I were to solder the pieces together it would influence the paintjob I'll already have done on the inside. 

[Roy vd M.]

A pic says more than words. This is what I mean:

 

[Heavens Eagle]

I can understand that Roy.  I spent 10 years designing and building prototype printed circuit boards so soldering is a no biggie to me.  One of the things I am planning to do on my Ju 88 is to fabricate the inside framework for the canopy from brass wire, and that will have to be soldered.  No other way to do it as the wire will have to be carefully formed to just fit inside the kit part and there are a number of odd shapes and joints.

 

Still looking good Roy!

[Roy vd M.]

Perhaps I will try soldering one day and probably on this kit, but the bomb bay is not the right place to do that mainly because of the paintwork. Unfortunately the inside has to be painted before being put together. 

 

But maybe I will use soldering (my girlfriend knows how to do that    and there is a good topic explaining everything somewhere on the forum) for example on the landing gear bay. 

 

I do look forward to seeing the canopy work on your Ju 88. Have seen a 88 at the RAF museum a few weeks ago and it sure is an impressive plane as well. 

 

Too few mid-sized bombers being modelled right now, I'd love to see another build thread.

[Roy vd M.]

Here you can see the inside L-strips: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=33650&p=351685

[Roy vd M.]

Correct measurements of bomb rack

 

Sorry I made a few calculation errors earlier. The plan is not accurate. 

 

New plan, corrections in red: 

 

 

Overview of corrections:

 

Horizontal: 3.57mm. -> 3.59mm. 6.61mm. -> 6.58mm. 3.57mm. -> 3.59mm. 

Vertical: 3.11mm. -> 3.09mm. 4.07mm. -> 4.04mm. 5.21mm. -> 5.17mm. 5.21mm. -> 5.17mm. 5.21mm. -> 5.17mm. 3.56mm. -> 3.53mm. 

Diameter of one hole: 4.12mm. -> 4.10mm. 

 

Sorry for any inconvenience. 

[Loic]

I'd call that comitment and dedication  !!

[Heavens Eagle]

Hey Roy!

How goes the build?  Have been progressing slowly on my Ju88.  Just finished the Oxygen regulators. Cleaned up the kit parts (a lot) Made a rubber mold and cast a bunch (of rejects).  Then got some new fresh resin and made some really nice casts.  Now to add the wiring and tubing.

 

Looking forward to your next installment.