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Anthony in NZ

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Posts posted by Anthony in NZ

  1. Awesome work Dan

     

    Boy I love those big fat Griffon blades out front! Looks really nice mate, all beautifully grafted together, awesome work.

     

    Cheers Anthony

  2. Hi Derek,

     

    Looking great so far!

     

    I have always loved the low back spits and especially the XVIe. I am planning on turning a Revell/Hasegawa MkIIa and have already converted the wings into 'e' ones and then stopped.

     

    I have access to a genuine low backed XVIe and can photograph any areas you need a shot of to email to you. Just let me know if you need anything.

     

    Keep up the great work!

     

    Cheers Anthony

  3. WOW Radu,

     

    That is simply amazing! Please keep us posted with your wonderful workmanship, there is a lot to be learned by staring at your pics at the way you do things.

     

    Thanks for sharing your masterpiece.

     

    Anthony

  4. WOW.....what more can I say, just fantastic work!

     

    Everytime I see your posts it makes me go back to the TA-4 and chip away again with new ideas.

     

    Thanks for sharing and the inspiration.

     

    Kind regards Anthony

  5. Hi Alan

     

    The later release Hasegawa 1a or Revell 1/11a, have the new tool wing which looks pretty good compared to my plans. I certainly dont profess to being a Spit expert but was certainly quite easy to convert into a 'C' wing (no need to remove and back fill the 'B' bulges) etc.

     

    Saved me a lot of time and only needed to rescribe the fuse.

     

    I also used a beading tool/ rivetter on the cowls do replicate the fasteners. I used the tool to press the circle and drilled the centre to make a small dot.

     

    Hope this helps.

     

    Cheers Anthony

  6. Hi David

     

    If you dont have any joy you can do what Dan and I have done.

     

    Check out 'In the works' and see Dans post on 'yes I do actually build kits' and see his beautiful work on his new tooled Hasegawa/Revell Mk 1a wing he converted. I did the same and made a 'C' wing. Cheap as chips, really easy but dont forget to check your refs.

     

    HTH Anthony

  7. Fanch

     

    Beautiful work my friend, thank you for keeping us up to date on her. Just wish I could work that fast and to such a high standard.

     

    Nice rivetting, those circular ones look great.

     

    How did you get on with the beading tool set?

     

    Cheers Anthony

  8. Hi Guys

     

    I appreciate your comments and boy that undercarriage on the Gnat looks great!

     

    I too build the hub seperate from the wheel so as to keep it looking even and by boring the centre of the plastic out in a lathe you are assured of a perfect circle.

     

    As for diamond tread I probably cant help much except that I spent HOURS! measuring, marking, and scribing a wheel once to get that tread pattern. It came out nice but I couldnt face doing it again!

     

    Maybe Saso can shed more light on that one.

     

    I have recently plunge formed a 400gal centreline fueltank for my Skyhawk using the 300 gal as my start point. Came out nice and am about to prime it so I will post a pic when done. I did a cropped tailed version with the curved end cap recessed into the rear end. Just have to add weld lines and some scribing on that one.

     

    Cheers Anthony

  9. Saso

    Thanks for the kind words, your Gnat still blows me away, fantastic work!

     

    As for scribing treads, there is no really easy way. But I find that for radial tread I take out my blade from my tamiya scriber and block it up with varying lengths of plastic card and lay the wheel on its side. I put it on my glass sheet that I use for sanding vacform stuff as it is dead flat.

     

    Then I move the wheel not the blade and go in the opposite direction to scribing to make a faint mark. If it looks good I then VERY lightly go in the direction for scribing slowly rotating the wheel. When you have achieved a deep enough line then I pick it up and slowly do it by hand making it deeper and even, angling it to get a nice groove. And so on. Its not hard but take your time (measure 10 times-scribe once!)

     

    Hope that helps. I actually found that getting the tyre profile correct and even, all the way round and having a nice sharp edge to the hub more challenging.

     

    I am yet to do the nosewheel and I found your article most useful.

     

    Cheers Anthony

  10. Hi Guys,

    Saso I just read your reply to me just before.

    Things have been a little slow on the detail set but I have started work again on it. Having an 18month old boy and working full time etc consumes most of my time but I am loving all the time spent on the kit.

     

    I am scratchbuilding new main wheelwells at the moment in the kit. I got a little carried away and now the whole boat fairing is pretty well all gone in prep for a new one.

     

    Sorry the wheel pic hasnt come out all that well, you cant see all the tread detail and it hasnt come out as crisp as it actually looks.I can assure you it looks better in the flesh. My flash just seemed to blow everything out and it was too dark without it. I will have another go later.

     

    I am hoping the new pylons wont be too far away either. It will have all the locking mechanisims and sway braces etc.

     

    Cheers Anthony

    post-4-1108632523.jpg

  11. Great work Jeff!

    Nice cammo and finishing.

    Goodness with all these awesome 190's on the forum I feel the urge to drag my new tool 'D' out also.

    Thanks and keep us posted.

    Cheers Anthony

  12. Thanks for that.

    I have been using the Tamiya spray can Laquer (AS12? or 11 I cant recall off hand which) run through the airbrush as it too has virtually no grain effect. I even thin mine even more.

    I might try the one you have used also if you dont get any reaction with other paints, something which I am always aware of.

    Thanks for the reply

    Anthony

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