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Vegard

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  1. As the whole idea behind preshading is to let the underlying paint show (faintly) through the top coat, I think the solution to your problem is to spray more thin coats of 76. Work carefully and don't let the paint build up. One idea might be to just paint the centre of the panels, leaving the edges (and the shading) untouched with the subsequent coats. And perhaps finish it off with an overall dusting of 76 to blend the different shades together if needed. HTH Vegard in Norway
  2. ..arrived in the mail today! There is a noticeable difference between this one and the old nose. As far as I can see the problem with the old one is that the the top portion of it becomes too narrow towards the rear end, this being continued down the sides. At the front, it appears to be identical to the new one. I haven't tried the fit yet, but I will soon enough. The quality of the part looks great, just make sure that it's thoroghly washed - my sample is covered with mold release. A few panel lines are a bit faint but these are towards the rear of the part and would most likely need to be repaired or even restored after gluing/sanding anyway so that's no problem. I had never imagined such customer service, both from MDC and from Vasko at Warbirds! All of my ten thumbs up for them Edit: A few (lousy) pics of the two, side-by-side:
  3. ...if one were to use Occidental's 1/48 Spitfire as an base for the conversion, all one would have to do is to glue on a pair of 109 exhausts and a prop... No offence but it looks like someone put the nose on upside-down...
  4. Didn't most Typhoons have stripes like that at some point? If I remember correctly, those weren't D-day stripes in the same manner as we know from other aircraft but ID markings to reduce the number of friendly fire incidents as the Typhoon looks kind'a like a Fw 190. Especially if one is ****-scared, trigger happy and has an aa-gun at the ready...
  5. Ok, the undersized nose is a bit of a worry. As it haven't arrived in the mail yet, I'll just have to wait and see how to solve that problem. But thanks for all the tips re. that nosejob! Due to a hectic schedule at work these days (living in a suitcase 5 days a week), nothing much will be done for a couple of weeks. But I have at last (more or less) decieded on which a/c to do: Highest scoring Norwegian ace during WWII, he is officially credited with 14,33 claims. (NOT 16 as the profile text would have you belive..) brg Vegard (that Norwegian guy) PS: Takk for det Lee! Hvor i Norge bodde du? Hilsen Vegard
  6. Hello and thanks for the tip, I'll pay attention to the width of the resin nose!
  7. After a few years of total modeling abscence, I'm slowly gearing up to re-enter the hobby. I have my sights set on converting Hasegawa's Spitfire V in 1/32nd to a Mk IX using a Warbirds conversion set. I have noticed a few of these conversions on the article pages on this site, and I was just wondering if there's anything I should be aware of in terms of fit, accuracy etc? Both regarding the kit itself and the conversion set. I haven't decieded exactly which machine to build yet, but it will be from either 331(No) or 332(No) sqn, and most likely an -e. brg Vegard Norway
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