Search the Community
Showing results for tags '610 squadron'.
Found 1 result
Hi gents, When I started building my MiG-27, I was already working on this oldtimer. However, as nothing is painted, nor closed, I'm sure there is no problem to add this kit in that group build. Useless to say I'm probably the worst modeller on earth regarding compliance with deadlines (too many ones in my job I guess!) but I don't care. Indeed, I'm sure this thread will be useful as I made a kind of basic tweak list describing all the modifications to make! I already made some of them and will show that in pictures. Obviously as I have to split my time between the two builds, this will not help but if you don't dare, you never win! The kit has a quite nice surface treatment. To me this is really one of the best ever done. Moreover, no thick plastic here but this can become a drawback in some circumstances. However, this is not all rosy! The adjustment of most parts is a nightmare and the level of inside details and most small parts is very bad. So, this is not the kind of kit you can easily build OOTB to get something correct...alas! I'm using the 1990 re-edition for this build but I have one or two older boxes stored somewhere! The scheme will be one of two late Mk.Is used by the "City of Chester" 610th Squadron. I still do not know if I will replicate DW-Q or DW-K as I have decals for both. Unfortunately, getting information regarding the early Spits is a minefield. After some hours of research in my notes and at least a dozen of books, here's the list of modifications I have already identified to improve my kit: - Replace the propeller with a De Havilland one from the Revell 2014 kit, correct its tip shape and add the screws on the propeller edge (generally absent on kits) - Replace the canopy with an Hasegawa Mk.II spare one - Enlarge the nose a little bit to be compatible with the propeller diameter - Reinforce all the seams between the fuselage halves with strips of plastic - Fill all the huge gaps and add the missing material on the nose panels - Replace the horrid exhausts (I will finally use the Model Monkey 3d printed ones) - Add the tank plug in front of the windscreen (and the two small holes located close to it) - Add the small bumps on the top of the nose - Add the typical early mirror on top of the windscreen - Remove all cockpit related tabs or features on the fuselage sides - Replace all the cockpit components. I will finally use a modified Aires Mk.V pit with an Eduard Mk.II IP, a converted Barracuda seat, some Barracuda parts (essentially the radio ones on the port side), some modified items from the kit and some scratchbuilt parts (such as the radiator lever on the port side of the seat and the armor plate behind it). The seat must be changed to a metal one with the round recess rather than the lozange-shaped one. Finally, I will add the Sutton belts and their rear fixing mechanism. - If possible recreate a Mk.I IP (no aftermarket available) or use a Mk.II one - Add the red-painted tank behind the IP as well as the connection hose (they were partly visible on the Mk.I as there was no bulkhead behind the IP) - Create the early bell-shaped voltage regulator, its support plate and its cabling - Add the canopy ejection system (Barracuda) - Add the structure of internal bulkheads and strengtheners in the fuselage, behind the cockpit (at least what will be more or less visible because that section is painted silver) - Add the flare launcher (basic shape) - Add the TR radio box and its supports (basic shape) - Replace the cockpit door and remove the crowbar supports as the Mk.I did not have it initially (it appeared later and was retrofitted) - Correct the mast profile (the kit one is too squared) - Drill the small oxygen hole in the fuselage close to the canopy rail - Fill most of the heigth of the canopy rail trenches without damaging the fuselage rivets - Drill and thin the belly intake lips - Replace the wheels (I will use the Brassin ones on that kit) - Correct the LG bay doors (thin them, correct the perimeter shape, add the internal side and lengthen them before adding some rivet lines and the four large screws on the external face) - Remove the brake drums from the LG legs, correct and add many small details on them (including the brake lines) - Add LG bays (I started from Aires Mk.V ones but removed the strengtheners to add early ones made in plastic). A bean-shaped hole should be added to simulate the embossed wing area intended to give room to the wheels. - Add the gun camera hole in the port wing leading edge as well as its oblong access panel in the wing fairing front - Fill the power plug hatch in the rear of the port wing fairing - Add the small oval bump close to each wing root - Add the bean-shaped LG well bump on each wing (I made them out of leftover Hasegawa 109 bumps!) and add the missing rivets on the wings (over the LG bays) - Add the two fairings protecting the exhaust holes of the wing heating system under each wing tip. - Correct the location of the MG holes in the wing leading edge - Rebuild all the internal components of the radiator (mix of plastic card, tubes and spare Eduard and RB photoetched radiator parts) - Rebuild the oil cooler (thin the edges, add a tube inside with Eduard spare round photoetched parts) - Thin the internal side of the wing trailing edge - Recreate more accurate wingtip lights - Sand cautiously the gull wing shape at the fuselage and wing junction - Drill drain holes - Drill the landing light, recreate it - Fill all the huge gaps or add the missing material on the elevators, rudder, and ailerons (remove all the hinges first) - Add the rudder actuator arm on the side and the visible hinge parts of the elevators if they are positioned down - Reshape the tail wheel leg, add all the large screws and replace the wheel This is a quite important amount of work but there is currently no easy strategy to get a Mk.I as the thread in the Discussion forum showed it. I'm confident the kit will look OK in spite of the shape issues I will not correct (mainly the wing span). Wait and see!