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Ciao to everybody. Following the presentation of Adriatic Models 3D printed parts, following your feedback about lack of instructions, it is time to show what I can do with them and in particular HOW, and I can finally dedicate to my favorite hobby: modelling. Wessex project has started in my mind on October 2020 when I bought two Fly 1/32 Wessex kits with the idea of reproducing as many parts as possible with new 3D printing technology, and here we are now. My project is to reproduce an HSS-1 (H-34G) Marina Militare, Italian Navy and a Wessex HU5 of Royal Navy. When I started I had in mind only the Italian version but I developed a passion for HU5 as it looks so British and so distinctive that I could not resist. They will be both painted in dark gray/dark blue with orange/red bands. Very attractive. For HU5 my plan is to use kit decals, while for Italian one I will see later, even if I hope in a pleasant surprise. Adriatic Models Weltanschauung is to provide parts for experienced modellers to make mainly exciting complicated works. Where you were forced, once, to go with scratch building now you can go with 3D printed parts, that in our case are not “shake and bake” parts, surely more refined and nicer to see, but absolutely all equals one each other. I like to customize my models, I cut them, I open hatches, canopies, inspection panels and doors only to place a piece of resin that thousands in the world have the same? Well, no, if it is possible. Another thought is “how many details can I put onto a 3d part?” You can draw almost everything with software, even the smallest rivet or the smallest pane line, to print them is another job. The precision, the grade of definition and part usability change everything. You can draw a 0.20mm rod, you can even print it, but to use it on a model is another thing and make it survive even more difficult. So, we make our parts best that we can with all details worth to make, aware that photoetched, plastic rods and struts are sometime still the best for our goal, an exact replica in scale of a real object. I apologize for this, maybe, boring introduction but it is the first occasion I have to share our point of view about 3D printing, and every contribution about 3D printing and related topics are very welcome. Let’s go to models now. As I had already said this WIP will deal with two different helicopters, an HSS-1 (H-34G) Italian Navy and a Wessex HU5 Royal Navy. A lot of parts are the same for both kits, a lot have only little cosmetic differences, while others are completely different. All what is reported here is applicable for both versions unless otherwise specified, and when particular indications will be necessary they will be given. As a general rule this thread covers H-34G building and special tips will be given for HU5. 1/32 Fly Wessex has been extensively reviewed on many forums and magazines that I think it is unnecessary to write another one here. I will say the only thing worth to say IMO: this is the only game in town, so if you want a 1/32 Wessex or H-34 as well, this is the game. Having dealt with it for months I have developed a special relation with it, it is not faultless, sometimes it drives you crazy but it is not a completely bad kit at last. It is a short-run model with all limits of this kind of kits, and hereby there are some pictures just to see what you may expect out of the box. Some reviews point the fact that fitting is not good. It is generally true as for almost all short-run kits, but I found that the main problem is a general lack of symmetry between the parts. Many, too many times right and left, ops, port and starboard parts have different thicknesses and shapes, so it is not always a matter of precision but a matter of symmetry and thickness. About thickness right and left fuselages halves are 2 to 2,2 mm thick, in 1:1 scale is 64mm and more, closer to a Panzer armor rather than a helicopter metallic skin. This is to say that, IMO, the biggest job to start with this kit is to thin parts, and when I say thin I mean thin a lot, at least ½ of original thickness, better would be 2/3. Here is what you find into the box You can see the grade of definition of panel lines a and rivets, typicall of a short-run kit. Fitting is not bad at all, and I should have a good result with some work. THE ORIGINAL SIN This is probably the biggest issue of the model, that affects all the others. Fly determined the position of cabin ceiling along the lower horizontal line in the picture above, while it should be 7mm higher, the higher line in the pictures. This mistake affects all the part around this area, so you have some parts that are simply unusable as they are provided. This is the AM proposal with a brand-new pilot bulkhead with the right shape and size. The idea Is to completely replace part. To be honest, you don't need it if you don’t want to show the MGRB area, and can modify the original without any problem, I know it is against my interests but absolutely necessary to say. The ADRIATIC MODELS bulkhead compared with kit part How it comes on your work bench Dry fit If you want to show the upper panels open and show the Main Gear Reduction Box MGRB, exposed with all its magnificence and details, you really need the new bulkhead from ADRIATIC MODELS. As already said the idea is to completely replace the original part with 3D part, so you can cut side doors without any pain, just two straight cuts and an additional care for the rounded cuts. I made mine with a very old Haseqawa Tri-tool photoetched saw and it worked fine. In this case too I left no struts or supports, as I decided to make them new. You will see how thick plastic is in this kit while cutting parts. Suggestion is: thin it before. Just to see if everything sounds good I made a dry test fit of pe rotor grill and AM bulkhead, and it works. Well, we can go on with the preparation of fuselages, cabin floor, ceiling, walls and the most important decision: will I leave everything as Fly made, or will I change everything? With this in mind I will not use the plastic parts Fly provides for cabin, they are at least 7mm shorter and as they are not irresistible, so I will change them. Even in this case I must say that you can do everything with 1mm plastic struts but I used AM set instead, 32011 for H-34 and 32027 for HU. These parts come ready to use, better to say “almost ready to use” as they are supplied without any casting block but have a little border at the bottom. It can be easily fixed by “shaving” parts with a sharp blade. Please notice that the resin is lightly flexible but not elastic, so be always careful when handling them. Shaving is the best way to treat borders, and you will be surprised of how easy is dealing with them. If sharp corners are desired use the point of a blade. Files should not be necessary and used only if really needed. Take your time and you will have a very good result. some parts from 32011 and from 32027 and some dy fit on non-thinned fuselage WESSEX: Please notice that Fly fuselages have Wessex HC narrow windows, that are good for H-34 too, but HU had larger windows and of different sizes too. I preferred to open larger window before gluing struts using Adriatic Models parts as a template. Doing this I found a strange situation, the corner number 1 in picture should be aligned with line 2, I used 4+ Publications drawings as reference. If you check the other fuselage will see that the same corner is in the right position number 2. I don’t think that Westland engineers were joking so I think Fly got it wrong, just a matter of symmetry. So, I removed both carefully shaving surfaces with sharp knife and the aim of reproduce them symmetrically later. To assembly them I started from the windowed parts, both LH and RH, being careful to align them with kit windows. To glue them I used 2 parts epoxy glue, first because its slower curing time is welcome if you need to make some adjustments, second reason is that epoxy glue is more elastic than ca and more reliable for this kind of parts. Even if some glue goes outside borders it is not a problem. After 30 minutes you can easily remove any excess with a sharp blade and easily peel it off. It is advisable to have the clear windows of the kit at hand, first reason is that HU had several configurations so you have to choice yours, second reason is that if you want a sharp fitting you cannot prescind from them. something to refine, but quite good. Notice the thinned fuselages. Included in the ADRIATIC MODELS set are fuel caps filler and H-34 steps asd Wesse as well. They are a nice addition, IMO, because you can easily reproduce evident details. To fit them just cut a square hole, 6x6mm and glue them, flush to the surface. Putting and sanding as required and this is all. H-34 steps are provided with two style, rectangular and oval shape. First one is for Wessex. You can see how parts may come with printing lines that can be easily removed with a very light sanding, picture below Italian Navy h-34 had louvres on port fuselage very evident in pictures that have to be done, so I draw with a pencil the position checking alignments and proportions, this is the final result. I draw the position of fuel cap fillers too,the low squares on the left and the right of the window. Fuel fillers introduce another question. Watching pictures, I noted how some H-34 had two ot three fuel fillers, all aligned on the lower fuselage while some had another filler, placed higher than the others and I was asking my self why? The mystery has been solved soon, it is due to the sonar. The installation of sonar in the cargo cabin of ASW H-34 obliged to remove a fuel tank from the floor and place it into the cabin just close the front wall. Well this tank had to be filled too, so a new filler cap, the third one, was installed in a higher position than the other two. I spotted this on some beautiful pictures sent by Walter De Paoli, owner of Pronto Models from Torino who kindly permitted me to publish them. I am almost sure that the presence of the “higher” fuel cap spots the presence of sonar equipment on the bird. picture by Valter De Paoli - Pronto Model Italy HSS-1N code 4-14 before restoration picture by Valter De Paoli - Pronto Model Italy internal fuel tank with feeding line from the "third" fuel filler picture by Valter De Paoli - Pronto Model Italy HSS-1N code 4-14 after restoration, noticed different style steps, "third upper" fuel fille, and restored stencils. As I spoiled the use of a sonar in this WIP, here are some picture of cabin floor ready for it. I made two cuts, the lower one is narrower than the upper so that the inner walls of sonar “hole” just seat flush with the lower cut while the outer walls of “hole” fit inside the higher cut, I guess pictures are better than words. Then I filled the recessed area in the undersurfaces because all the bumps reproduced are typical for Wessex and not for H-34. I was worried about this thing and I filled the recessed areas with ca glue and a special filler product to use with ca glue. Three applications were made to obtain a rock-solid surface and I started sanding. It was a great surprise for me to spot that al bumps were flattened and the rock-solid ca didn’t appear yet. Trust me when I say that plastic is thick. That’s all for now. Thank you for watching and useless to say we are available for any questions, any further clarifications, criticism and even compliments as well. Next thread will cover one of our most extensive set, the Main Gear Reduction Box, that has a parental warning for Advanced Modellers , and a lot of parts, a lot of fun. Stay tuned. Maw1963