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Maw1963

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About Maw1963

  • Birthday 07/28/1963

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    San Benedetto del Tronto - ITALY

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  1. Thank you Youngtiger1, what you say is EXACTLY what we want to do, we don't consider ourselves a business company but a modellers company, who want to do something good and new for our hobby and possibily to share with other enthusiastic modellers. This is the reason why we are improving our parts both using them and receiving feed-backs from modellers, and this is the reason why we will send any update available to buyers including it for free, in the every order received. Your words are a very strong encoraugement.
  2. Ciao to everybody. Just a little update, dealing mostly with painting. This is the base for further detailing as wiring, tubing, sonar and its hardware. I used a total black base for paintind and hair spray for chipping. I am quite satisfied with the result, I like weathering models but I still prefer a clean weathering not liking it heavy. Any suggestion is very welcome. ... and at the end a picture live from the bench HSS-1 is actually on hold because I am working on HU-5 and I hope to show you something for the next weekend. That's all for now, thank yor for watching and stay tuned Maw1963
  3. Ciao to everybody, despite sacred in Italy august vacations, we have been able to make something that you may like: the first batch of external stores for Wessex / H -34 family T The sets are for MK-44 and MK-46 Torpedos, MK-11 Deep Charges, H-34 150 gal tank and support, Wessex 100 gal tank and support, Wessex EMKU pylon suitable for torpedos, deep carges and other external stores. All of them are available both in 1/32 and 1/48. We are even preparing the HSS-1 Variable Angle Launcher, used by Italian Navy among the others that will be realesed within a few days. We are also planning to make the other weapon platforms for Wessex, that are both peculiar and complicated. Naturally any feed back from modellers is welcome. Here are some more renderings. The building thread is going on as well, slowly but going on, and something will be published soon, here is an apetizer Thank you for watching and stay tuned
  4. Ciao to everybody. A litle update. I have to apologize for my previous post where I measured the MRRB rods, quoting the length as 25mm and 27mm. Watching pictures I was not convinced of overall appearance of the whole so I chanced the length of rods to 27mm and 29mm and things seems to be better. Sorry for inconvenience, and I will correct my previous post. I modified the axle of MGRB too with another one thinner. "new" and "old" MGRBs compared. Rods are only 2mm longer but they are indespensable, note the thinner axle too. I prepared the main rotor as well, and for this part there is not a big work to do. The only task is to careful remove supports and to clean the parts. My suggestion is to give a light pass with sandpaper over all the parts. It is helpful to see what you have in your hands and how to treat it. Part wit supports removed on the right. You can have a nice result with careful removing of supports, already visibile somewhere. Parts cleaned and ready for assembly. Apart from cleaning rotor comes without any problem. This will be an unconventional WIP because at this point I should dive into detailing all these stuffs with plumbing, wiring, rivets and more and more, but I will do all later. As I am using brand new parts, just released and never used before, and as the project of converting a Wessex into a HSS1- / H-34 may sound ambitious if not pretentious, I am very curious to see how other parts have been done and how they work. Which is the main part that can be the reason of failure or success? Yes Sirs, the nose. 32001, or 32002 as well, provides the nose, the firewall bulkhead, the landing gears supports, and three parts to add inside the nose. The cabin bulkhead comes from 32032 set. Before testing the nose, it is necessary to continue the construction of fuselage, placing the rear cabin bulkhead and the details behind it, a triangular piece of floor and the last bulkhead before tail, all included in 32032 set. I am not sure of how much of them will be visible, but I feel safe with them in place. All parts have been glued with epoxy glue, and a little putting and sanding as required. I glued the 32032 bulkhead in position too, juts to have a reference point. Notice that some details have been done (redone) with plastic card, an indispensable stuff anyway, specially if you cut parts too short as someone I well know does . Everything is ready for a dry test, and from what I see, it should work fine, some work to do but it is a good start in my opinion. I prepared the MGRB deck too, gluing 0.30 card on it and shaping to conform with fulages The slot is for MGRB axle. And now some pictures "live from the bench" As I said this is a little updated, just to correct the mistake I made and to see how this thread evolves, thank you for watching and stay tuned. Maw1963
  5. Ciao Coneheadff and thank you, I really hope it will be helpful for all of you.
  6. Ciao to everybody, as announced I started with the Main Gear Reduction Box that is one of my favorite set and actually the best seller of the catalog. I have been asked to specify the sets I deal with in the topics and so I am using 32010 HSS-1 MGRB and 32024 WESSEX MGRB. The set are quite similar but they have different details typical of each version. MGRB seems a big, crazy puzzle, and is true for real. We are studying a more appropriate layout for this, but the braves that have already bought a set received this. Don’t be fooled by appearance it will be easier than you think. First of all, I must advise that this set is done to be used with the correct positioned deck, famed 7mm taller than Fly solution, so If you will attempt to use it with unmodified deck it will not work. Comparing our part with Fly one it is easy to understand why. First task is to remove parts from supports and be careful, they are all thin. To start you need MGRB main part, three actuators, the upper plate with non-rotation fit and the lower cross Here you see the difference among Wessex MGRB, on the left and H-34 MGBR on the right. Other parts are identical. Assembly the upper plate, the non-rotation fit has tab locators on MGRB part and then the three actuators that have locating pin in the lower part. Be careful with distance because the whole assembly must pass across the opening in the photo-etched mesh on top of fuselage. Check and dry fit. MGRB supports. If I didn’t get it wrong, I realized that MGRB was suspended from deck by the use of this supports, for a matter of vibrations I suppose. To avoid a too fragile assembly, I decided to reproduce supports without rods, thinking that using plastic rods would have worked better than printing them in 3D. So, the four supports came with holes where rods are to be inserted. Another consideration is that MGRB in 1:1 was tilted 10° forward, so it is necessary to opportunely fit the length of the rods. One more reason is that rods are connected at the base and using plastic cement for this operation is by far better than using ca glue. This is why connectors came without rods. If some doesn’t agree I apologize but choice has been done. FIY plastic rods lenght is 25mm for shortest and 27mm for longest, so you will have 1 support with 2x25mm rods, one support with 2x27mm rods and 2 supports with 1x25mm and 1x27mm rods. PS: I chanced rods measures later in this topic, and what I consider the correct measures now are 27mm and 29mm. Sorry for inconvenience. 25mm rods installed Supports fitting is so accurate that they stay in place even without glue and this is welcome for the assembly. I started placing the first support and it stays in position without glue. Then I placed the second one with a tiny drop of plastic glue on the rods ends to join them, taking care of allignment and then I finished adding the other two supports in the same way. Front supports may look wrong on this picture but when you place on the deck floor everything turns rigth The most important thing is to check allignments and symmetry. Dimensions of parts and lengh of rods seem to be right, I checked the final result while dry fitting parts. live from the workbench, I think that MGRB heigth and the position of pe grill is right compared with pictures of the real bird. The only doubt I have watchig the last two pictures is that rods may be a little too short, and the anchor points should be closer to fuselage sides. I will think about it and any suggestion is very welcome. Thank you for watching
  7. Ciao to everybody. Following the presentation of Adriatic Models 3D printed parts, following your feedback about lack of instructions, it is time to show what I can do with them and in particular HOW, and I can finally dedicate to my favorite hobby: modelling. Wessex project has started in my mind on October 2020 when I bought two Fly 1/32 Wessex kits with the idea of reproducing as many parts as possible with new 3D printing technology, and here we are now. My project is to reproduce an HSS-1 (H-34G) Marina Militare, Italian Navy and a Wessex HU5 of Royal Navy. When I started I had in mind only the Italian version but I developed a passion for HU5 as it looks so British and so distinctive that I could not resist. They will be both painted in dark gray/dark blue with orange/red bands. Very attractive. For HU5 my plan is to use kit decals, while for Italian one I will see later, even if I hope in a pleasant surprise. Adriatic Models Weltanschauung is to provide parts for experienced modellers to make mainly exciting complicated works. Where you were forced, once, to go with scratch building now you can go with 3D printed parts, that in our case are not “shake and bake” parts, surely more refined and nicer to see, but absolutely all equals one each other. I like to customize my models, I cut them, I open hatches, canopies, inspection panels and doors only to place a piece of resin that thousands in the world have the same? Well, no, if it is possible. Another thought is “how many details can I put onto a 3d part?” You can draw almost everything with software, even the smallest rivet or the smallest pane line, to print them is another job. The precision, the grade of definition and part usability change everything. You can draw a 0.20mm rod, you can even print it, but to use it on a model is another thing and make it survive even more difficult. So, we make our parts best that we can with all details worth to make, aware that photoetched, plastic rods and struts are sometime still the best for our goal, an exact replica in scale of a real object. I apologize for this, maybe, boring introduction but it is the first occasion I have to share our point of view about 3D printing, and every contribution about 3D printing and related topics are very welcome. Let’s go to models now. As I had already said this WIP will deal with two different helicopters, an HSS-1 (H-34G) Italian Navy and a Wessex HU5 Royal Navy. A lot of parts are the same for both kits, a lot have only little cosmetic differences, while others are completely different. All what is reported here is applicable for both versions unless otherwise specified, and when particular indications will be necessary they will be given. As a general rule this thread covers H-34G building and special tips will be given for HU5. 1/32 Fly Wessex has been extensively reviewed on many forums and magazines that I think it is unnecessary to write another one here. I will say the only thing worth to say IMO: this is the only game in town, so if you want a 1/32 Wessex or H-34 as well, this is the game. Having dealt with it for months I have developed a special relation with it, it is not faultless, sometimes it drives you crazy but it is not a completely bad kit at last. It is a short-run model with all limits of this kind of kits, and hereby there are some pictures just to see what you may expect out of the box. Some reviews point the fact that fitting is not good. It is generally true as for almost all short-run kits, but I found that the main problem is a general lack of symmetry between the parts. Many, too many times right and left, ops, port and starboard parts have different thicknesses and shapes, so it is not always a matter of precision but a matter of symmetry and thickness. About thickness right and left fuselages halves are 2 to 2,2 mm thick, in 1:1 scale is 64mm and more, closer to a Panzer armor rather than a helicopter metallic skin. This is to say that, IMO, the biggest job to start with this kit is to thin parts, and when I say thin I mean thin a lot, at least ½ of original thickness, better would be 2/3. Here is what you find into the box You can see the grade of definition of panel lines a and rivets, typicall of a short-run kit. Fitting is not bad at all, and I should have a good result with some work. THE ORIGINAL SIN This is probably the biggest issue of the model, that affects all the others. Fly determined the position of cabin ceiling along the lower horizontal line in the picture above, while it should be 7mm higher, the higher line in the pictures. This mistake affects all the part around this area, so you have some parts that are simply unusable as they are provided. This is the AM proposal with a brand-new pilot bulkhead with the right shape and size. The idea Is to completely replace part. To be honest, you don't need it if you don’t want to show the MGRB area, and can modify the original without any problem, I know it is against my interests but absolutely necessary to say. The ADRIATIC MODELS bulkhead compared with kit part How it comes on your work bench Dry fit If you want to show the upper panels open and show the Main Gear Reduction Box MGRB, exposed with all its magnificence and details, you really need the new bulkhead from ADRIATIC MODELS. As already said the idea is to completely replace the original part with 3D part, so you can cut side doors without any pain, just two straight cuts and an additional care for the rounded cuts. I made mine with a very old Haseqawa Tri-tool photoetched saw and it worked fine. In this case too I left no struts or supports, as I decided to make them new. You will see how thick plastic is in this kit while cutting parts. Suggestion is: thin it before. Just to see if everything sounds good I made a dry test fit of pe rotor grill and AM bulkhead, and it works. Well, we can go on with the preparation of fuselages, cabin floor, ceiling, walls and the most important decision: will I leave everything as Fly made, or will I change everything? With this in mind I will not use the plastic parts Fly provides for cabin, they are at least 7mm shorter and as they are not irresistible, so I will change them. Even in this case I must say that you can do everything with 1mm plastic struts but I used AM set instead, 32011 for H-34 and 32027 for HU. These parts come ready to use, better to say “almost ready to use” as they are supplied without any casting block but have a little border at the bottom. It can be easily fixed by “shaving” parts with a sharp blade. Please notice that the resin is lightly flexible but not elastic, so be always careful when handling them. Shaving is the best way to treat borders, and you will be surprised of how easy is dealing with them. If sharp corners are desired use the point of a blade. Files should not be necessary and used only if really needed. Take your time and you will have a very good result. some parts from 32011 and from 32027 and some dy fit on non-thinned fuselage WESSEX: Please notice that Fly fuselages have Wessex HC narrow windows, that are good for H-34 too, but HU had larger windows and of different sizes too. I preferred to open larger window before gluing struts using Adriatic Models parts as a template. Doing this I found a strange situation, the corner number 1 in picture should be aligned with line 2, I used 4+ Publications drawings as reference. If you check the other fuselage will see that the same corner is in the right position number 2. I don’t think that Westland engineers were joking so I think Fly got it wrong, just a matter of symmetry. So, I removed both carefully shaving surfaces with sharp knife and the aim of reproduce them symmetrically later. To assembly them I started from the windowed parts, both LH and RH, being careful to align them with kit windows. To glue them I used 2 parts epoxy glue, first because its slower curing time is welcome if you need to make some adjustments, second reason is that epoxy glue is more elastic than ca and more reliable for this kind of parts. Even if some glue goes outside borders it is not a problem. After 30 minutes you can easily remove any excess with a sharp blade and easily peel it off. It is advisable to have the clear windows of the kit at hand, first reason is that HU had several configurations so you have to choice yours, second reason is that if you want a sharp fitting you cannot prescind from them. something to refine, but quite good. Notice the thinned fuselages. Included in the ADRIATIC MODELS set are fuel caps filler and H-34 steps asd Wesse as well. They are a nice addition, IMO, because you can easily reproduce evident details. To fit them just cut a square hole, 6x6mm and glue them, flush to the surface. Putting and sanding as required and this is all. H-34 steps are provided with two style, rectangular and oval shape. First one is for Wessex. You can see how parts may come with printing lines that can be easily removed with a very light sanding, picture below Italian Navy h-34 had louvres on port fuselage very evident in pictures that have to be done, so I draw with a pencil the position checking alignments and proportions, this is the final result. I draw the position of fuel cap fillers too,the low squares on the left and the right of the window. Fuel fillers introduce another question. Watching pictures, I noted how some H-34 had two ot three fuel fillers, all aligned on the lower fuselage while some had another filler, placed higher than the others and I was asking my self why? The mystery has been solved soon, it is due to the sonar. The installation of sonar in the cargo cabin of ASW H-34 obliged to remove a fuel tank from the floor and place it into the cabin just close the front wall. Well this tank had to be filled too, so a new filler cap, the third one, was installed in a higher position than the other two. I spotted this on some beautiful pictures sent by Walter De Paoli, owner of Pronto Models from Torino who kindly permitted me to publish them. I am almost sure that the presence of the “higher” fuel cap spots the presence of sonar equipment on the bird. picture by Valter De Paoli - Pronto Model Italy HSS-1N code 4-14 before restoration picture by Valter De Paoli - Pronto Model Italy internal fuel tank with feeding line from the "third" fuel filler picture by Valter De Paoli - Pronto Model Italy HSS-1N code 4-14 after restoration, noticed different style steps, "third upper" fuel fille, and restored stencils. As I spoiled the use of a sonar in this WIP, here are some picture of cabin floor ready for it. I made two cuts, the lower one is narrower than the upper so that the inner walls of sonar “hole” just seat flush with the lower cut while the outer walls of “hole” fit inside the higher cut, I guess pictures are better than words. Then I filled the recessed area in the undersurfaces because all the bumps reproduced are typical for Wessex and not for H-34. I was worried about this thing and I filled the recessed areas with ca glue and a special filler product to use with ca glue. Three applications were made to obtain a rock-solid surface and I started sanding. It was a great surprise for me to spot that al bumps were flattened and the rock-solid ca didn’t appear yet. Trust me when I say that plastic is thick. That’s all for now. Thank you for watching and useless to say we are available for any questions, any further clarifications, criticism and even compliments as well. Next thread will cover one of our most extensive set, the Main Gear Reduction Box, that has a parental warning for Advanced Modellers , and a lot of parts, a lot of fun. Stay tuned. Maw1963
  8. Ciao to everybody. First of all we would like to thank all the modellers who bought our parts from our site, we did not really expect such enthusiasm at once, thank you all. Naturally we faced a last minute inconvenient with courier software plug-in that we have solved yesterday so we will ship all orders on Monday 31/05. Now let's see some news. 1/48th scale sets are now ready and available on site, so check them out. We have been asked to show pictures of printed parts, so here some. HSS-1 / H-34 NOSE AND EGINE BAY EARLY STYLE HSS-1 / H-34 WRIGHT R-1820 CYCLONE ENGINE, HIGH EXAUST available in 1/48 and 1/32 HSS-1 / H-34 WRIGHT R-1820 CYCLONE ENGINE, LOW EXHAUST available in 1/48 and 1/32 HSS-1 / H-34 SONAR AN/AQS 5 BRAND NEW available in 1/48 and 1/32 compare 1/48 and 1/32 "Search light" sonar dome WESSEX CABIN HEATING DUCT BRAND NEW available in 1/48 and 1/32 HSS-1 / H-34 CABIN HEATING DUCT BRAND NEW available in 1/48 and 1/32 WESSEX FRONT AND TAIL ROTOR DETAIL SET this is 1/48 part... ... and this too More to come, stay tuned, and enjoy
  9. Tigger you are right too, it is necessary to show what it is possible to do with our parts. Chuck is a very talented modeller, and someone may have doubts so it is necessary that an ordinary modeller, seems an Ozzy Ousborne song, makes it. Considering myself an ordinary modeller I will start a WIP in few days I hope. Thank you and Ciao
  10. Anthony Bingo! You caught it. Yes our next projetcs are sets for revell 1/32 UH-1, honestly we don't like 1/35 so much. Some are intented for Italian Navy of couse but any suggestions or requests are welcome.
  11. Ciao JayW, you are right, everything in the life requires same talent, and to cultivate talents is the most important thing to do for job, for education and even for hobby. Ho do you cultivate a talent if you don't try? Not speaking about our parts, but as a general rule. Thank you for your interest.
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