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Kahunaminor

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Posts posted by Kahunaminor

  1. There's nothing wrong with either the painting or the photos. Both are good to go!

    Painting shows nice detail and weathering work and photos are big enough so my old eyes don't have to strain to see the detail.

    I see nothing wrong here. How about a pic of the starboard wing root gun bay?

     

    Sincerely,

    Mark

     

    Hi Mark,

     

    I don't want to hijack Nick's thread. Here are two shots of the WIP and completed Aires gun bay.

     

    IMG_7208.jpg

     

    IMG_7307.jpg

     

     

    Back to you Nick :evil_laugh:

  2. I am in the process of building a Fw 190 A-8/R11 nightfighter using the Owl conversion set. My kit I am using is the new tooled Hasegawa A-5, 1/32.

     

    I have all the parts to convert this to an A-8 ( I hope!)

     

    It would be of great help if someone could send me a scan of the A-8 instructions. I can the distinguish between the A-5 and A-8 parts. Tail wheel, etc.

     

    Thanks for reading.

     

    Hi

    I think this is the new tool kit, it is the one I have:

    http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10036915

     

    According to the website released Mar 2004 and is the latest A8 released in 1/32 by Hasegawa

     

    HTH

     

    Regards

  3. Unfortunately, that train has just hit the buffers; I have never used MM, or Tamiya, paints. I do have a colour card, for Sky, but it isn't much use to you at a range of several thousand miles, and I wouldn't trust a scanned picture, on here; if I can get hold of a bottle of the Tamiya Sky, I'll check it against the card, and let you know.

    Edgar

     

    Please don't go to any throuble Edgar. Your advice is sufficient and I thank you for taking the time to answer what must sometimes appear to be inane and oft repeated questions.

     

    Regards

  4. You need to start pre-war, with Sidney Cotton and his Lockheed, which he had painted in a pale green, which he called (and copyrighted) Camotint. When the RAF took over his unit, Camotint was renamed "Sky," full stop.

    Upper camouflage colours, on fighters, were dead matt (known as Type "M" paints,) but it was decided that, once black/white was ditched after Dunkirk, the underside should be less matt, so a "Smooth" finish was called for. From this came "Sky, Type S." Note that, at this time, the official description was that it was a matt paint, with a smooth finish (not the same thing as semi-gloss.)

    There was, already, a "Sky Blue" in use, so, presumably to avoid confusion (boy, did that work well) the Air Ministry decreed that its description was duck-egg blue (Sky Type "S".) Note the lack of capitals in "duck-egg blue"; this gives (to me, anyway) a clue that it was a description, not a title.

    Personally (and have I received some flak, for this one) I believe that the "duck-egg" part was simply to imply the smooth part of the description (duck's eggs are smoother, in texture, than the more common chicken's eggs, and, incidentally, the most common duck, in the U.K., lays white eggs, not blue, or green.)

    So, there you have it; there was only Sky, there was no Duck-Egg Blue and no Sky Blue (officially) in use in the RAF Fighter Command of 1940.

    Now comes the "however." There was a shortage of Sky, in 1941, in fact the painting of the spinners and tail bands was delayed due to that shortage, so it's possible that some cobbled-together paints were used, or that Sky was eked out by adding extra white to it. Ian Huntley also said that some Sky was nothing more than a distemper, which turned into a chalky white, in short order.

    It is very, very, unlikely that any spinners, or tail bands, were painted Sky Blue, so, unless you have a photo, to prove otherwise, I wouldn't use it.

    Edgar

     

    Thanks again for your insight Edgar. The only question that now leaves me is this. In asking this I am assuming you are familiar with both MM and Tamiya paints. The MM Sky type "S" is a much paler/blue colour than the Tamiya Sky which is greener. Which is the correct one to use for an a/c in DE/DG colour scheme? To me the MM appears more correct for the early DE/DG/Sky scheme and Tamiya Sky is correct for the spinner/bands/letters in the later 2 Grey/Green scheme. Or is Tamiya Sky correct for all?

     

    Regards,

  5. A further question re Baders Spitfire MkVa. The kit instruction's colour call out has the spinner white. Surely it should be either Sky or Sky Blue with matching band? In fact what is the correct colours for spinner/band /underside for a DE/DG/Sky a/c? There is some conjecture on another board that it should be a Sky Blue Spinner and band over Sky undersurface or all three areas Sky? Further, where does "Sky type 'S'" and "Duck Egg Blue" fit into the equation? Does Sky Blue = Sky type "S" or Duck Egg Blue? I ask because I have these last two in MM enamels.

     

    And I thought RLM colours were confusing!! :frantic:

  6. A further question. The kit instruction's colour call out has the spinner white. Surely it should be either Sky or Sky Blue with matching band? In fact what is the correct colours for spinner/band /underside for a DE/DG/Sky a/c? There is some conjecture on another board that it should be Sky Blue Spinner and band over Sky undersurface or all three areas Sky? Further, where does Sky type "S" and "Duck Egg Blue" fit into the equation? Does Sky Blue = Sky type "S" or Duck Egg Blue? I ask because I have these last two in MM enamels.

     

    Regards

  7. Is anyone aware of an aftermarket fix for the Eduard tailfin for the Me109E, converting it from the G top to an E top ? Doesn't look like there are any given the number of models I have seen with the G tail. Filing down to make the fin edge straight through to the aerial post is the other option but means filling and rescribing the parallel panel line, or is it that the aerial post must come fwd, so filler at the top feathering out down the leading edge slope is needed ? I havent the kit to compare to plans to see whats wanted. I do fancy building it but am put off by the tail error they made, first time I have seen any manufacturer give an E a G tail top.

     

    Also if I buy the E-4 , how do I get the canopy fix ?

     

    I see MDC now fix the hubs, so extra money there. Perhaps they can have a go at that tail !

     

    Amazing how such a well respected company can **** up on such notable parts of the emil.

     

    Merlin

     

    Hi Merlin,

     

    I may be having a slow day but I don't follow what you are saying. As the others have said they are unaware of this problem so do you have any photos of the differences you speak of?

     

    I note you do not have a kit so would it help to go to Eduard's website and download the instructions for the relevant a/c to compare them to your references? Whilst you are there you will find out how to order a corrected E-4 canopy. I have successfully done so for an early purchased E4 but AFAIK they have now been corrected so if you purchase one now it should have the correct canopy. As far as I was aware the E-4 and E-3 wheel hubs have been corrected by Eduard with only the E-1 remaining a source of angst. Eagle editions also offer replacements for the wheels so you may consider that avenue.

     

    HTH

  8. Any chance you could snap a decent shot of the box art for the database Kent? Looks like Charlie's put a low-res version in there, but a higher-res one would be nice if you can manage it. You can just email it to me at kevin@largescaleplanes.com - if at all possible!

     

    Kev

     

    Will be on the way tonight Kev

  9. I picked up the kit today for AUD$60. It has the options for a Mk IIa or Mk Va as previously noted. It has mrkings for two a/c. both are Bader's a/c from 1940/41. It has both long and short spinners and the starting cartridge for the IIa. Will probably benefit from an AM pit and Radu's Harness. It is not a Tamiya kit but at first glance it seems a nice acquisition. I have the Aero detail Mk1-V book to assist but there will, no doubt be some questions seeking assistance at a later time :D

     

    Regards

  10. Thank you gents,

     

    It is a relief to see I am not suffering "Mad Cow" and it was a Mk Va! From what you have told me it may well be worth a trip back to the LHS and I hope I haven't missed the boat! It was priced at AUD$60 which would appear to be in line with the HLJ price back then (if you add postage). I will post again when I have it. The oil cooler problem should be fairly simple to fix I hope. I appreciate your time and knowledge. Thanks again.

     

    Regards

  11. sounds like a new boxing of the kit l would be interested in seeing where you saw it to have a look myself

     

    It was at my LHS here in Oz. There is no listing I can find at Hasegawa's web site for release. My interest is now piqued so I will go back there ASAP and report back. I am sure it said Va on the box (the artwork showed all MG's, no cannon and DB markings) but it MAY have ben a Mk I/II a/c.

  12. It doesn't seem to be in the Kit Database Kent, and I don't recall seeing or hearing about it before. I wouldn't count that as meaning it's rare, but uncommon perhaps. Sorry I can't offer you more info.

     

    Kev

     

    Thanks Kev,

     

    I had never heard of it before but it was in the new white bordered Hasegawa boxing with the five digit code as opposed to an S number. Methinks I may have to get back there for a second look!

     

    Regards

  13. I was looking through my LHS the other day and came across a Hasegawa 1/32 Spitfire Va marked as Douglas Bader's a/c. The price was reasonable but I left it there as I wasn't looking for another Spitfire. Since then I have done a bit of research and it appears to be a very limited edition a/c. Can anyone advise me if I am correct? Should I hotfoot it back the the LHS at first light before some other schmuck?

     

    Regards.

  14. Shipping notice just arrived from HLJ. Both Zeros to my door for a total cost of AUD$190. AUD$50 of that is shipping. Now you may think that expensive (actually it is a lot of money :thumbsup: ) but they are priced in the region of AUD$130 - $150 per kit (depending where you shop) so I think it is okay. :piliot:

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