Kahunaminor
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Posts posted by Kahunaminor
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Kev,
that would be great to move the thread to WIP at the appropriate time for me, thanks.
Ankle went okay, slowly recovering but not as much time or energy to build as I had hoped!!
Regards
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hi Kent
well, it kind of shows you but i wanted to ee it, if you see what i mean
more importantly, do you know if this wire was on the other leg as well?
the pics i have of the captured Gustav do not show the port oleo in the same setting ie it is clearly indoors and has presumably been fiddled with, although why they whould take the wire off is beyond me
and of course every other pic i have are unclear
help please gentlemen!!
Mate, I honestly have no idea if the port side is the same. I can only assume at this time
(and that can be dangerous) that it would be so. I will have a look and see if I can confirm or deny it from Jerry's books. I know what you mean about getting it right and I fully concur, just sometimes, and this is purely a personal observation, sometimes the illusion is sufficient to enable the mind to see what we intend to impart. I have Montex masks sitting there as well and have held off using them but you make it look so easy 
I may have to take a leap of faith! -
I regret that I will not be finished this build in time for the cutoff on Monday. Even if I were to attempt to pull a couple of Russ like "allnighters' I would fall short. Events have conspired against me and I am disappointed that I will not complete the task at hand. I will continue to plod along and finish this in the near future. To all you other GB members that finished and honoured Russ in this way a great job to you all. To all those that encouraged me with positive coments I thank you and hope to finish up a better modeller.
Regards
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i must admit i spent about an hour and a half just staring at the kit and of pictures like this in order to get comfortable with what the angles should be
i have yet to sort out the bracing strut, basically because i have been slack - this should have been done weeks ago - but here is a clear pic of some extra detail that i will add, including the thin wire that goes from the strut back up (somewhere?!) near the oleo join with the bulkhead
more in a mo...
Nick forgive me for saying but doesn't the diagram you have shown explain where the wire goes? It would appear to pivot just inboard of the MLG leg and run across the wheelbay to a point inboard. If I am stating the bleeding obvious let me know!!
But please keep the updates coming!
Regards
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Nick that is looking sooo good! The work in the canopy wiring looks absolutely spot on. DO NOT let yourself get rushed into finishing. I find that is when I make the mistakes!!! Keep going.
Regards
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Hello all,
Here is my 1/4 scale Eduard Bf110 Instrument Panel from the 1/48 Eduard Bf110 Royal Class kit. It was built as a "quick" diversion whilst I am awaiting some parts for another build. Whilst it is a relatively easy build, some care should be taken to ensure the clear plastic lenses are prepared properly. I actually broke one and had to replace it with clear acetate. I won't say which one as I think I did an okay job. I used Gator glue to fix most of the parts, only resorting to CA on the curved panels on the left with the larger toggles (if I only jnew what it was for!)I also had one of the screws taken by the carpet monster as a sacrifice. The stand is a miniature easel I found in a $2 shop here at home.
I am undecided as to apply some very light weathering, maybe just some Promodeller wash and some light wear marks on the screws.
Thanks for looking
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Thank you for the kind words. The P-40/Kittyhawk IV is probably my favourite as well. I should add the cockpits and extras are due to a lot of Eduard P/E and help in the form of advise and tips from forum members here and elsewhere
Regards
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Very nice Kev.
If I shut my eyes and concentrate I can see my one trip on a V Jet as a kid to Fiji...many moons ago!!!
Regards
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Thanks Radu,
I have ordered a set and await them eagerly.
Regards,
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Here are some of my 1/48 scale builds. All have been seen before on other forums but I thought this new place seemed appropriate.
Hasegawa Kittyhawk Mk IV "Cleopatra III"
Hasegawa Spitfire Vb:
Hasegawa A6M5 Zero:
Thanks for looking.
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Nick,
She is coming along well.
For the wheel wells I normally do the same as John but use damp tissue paper to fill the area. I tear a small strip off the tissue, dip it and then squeeze the majority of the water out and work to fill in the area, building up layers of tissue to fill the area as needed or not as the case may be. I find that using damp will allow you mold it slightly around shapes and it will even adhere to walls and edges. Paint away and then carefully remove piece by piece. Tempting as using large pieces can be it should be avoided as they can damage detail when being removed or dry and be a bugger to extract!
Please keep up the good work and the postings!
Regards
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Tudor,
That's a winner in my eyes. Congratulations on a fine build and impressive detail work.
Regards
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Kev,
Every time I think about getting my 262 out again, I see one of your fabulous updates and I get 262 envy!!
and back under the bench it goes! That is just cracking along. Congratulations and please keep up the good work!!Regards
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Hi guys,
IIRC correctly the tail wheel can be disengaged to "freewheel" so the a/c could be moved about by ground crew. I think this involved the pilot pulling the stick all the way to the rear which unlocked the tailwheel. The control surfaces would naturally move but once the wheel was unlocked they and the stick could be returned to normal. It was then free to move until locked again somehow (posibly the same method?). I cannot recall where I read it (possibly Jerry's books) but I recall reading it somewhere. I have my tail wheel turned to provide a little interest.
Regards
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Nick,
Try here: http://www.bookdepository.co.uk/search?sea...3E%3C%2FSPAN%3E and see if you get any luck. It is a very broad search but there are quite a few Kagero books there. Good luck.
Kent
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Mate,
That rescribing work is great! One of the (many) aspects of our hobby I am yet to become comfortable with! I would appreciate the tell all expose but if there is too much invovled then let it pass.
Regards
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Question for those in the know here.......
Thinking about starting a RAAF P-40.
As Edgar stated, if the harnesses they replaced the US belts with were not the infamous "Q" harnesses, would the Sutton "A" Harness be closer to what they replaced the US belts with?
Id love to use Radu's belts here but the Q and A Suttons are all that are offered, and im not knowledgeable enough about them to know which would be more appropriate.
Thanks in advance,
Brian
Brian,
It is my understanding (which I may have gotten confused) that it would very much depend on which model P-40 you were looking to build. The early E's (Kittyhawk 1/1A etc) which only had the unfavourable US two point belt fitted as standard had these replaced with the Sutton harnesses. Radu's "QK" harness would be okay for this. I believe the later M's and N's (Kittyhawk III and IV) as a general rule retained the US harness as it had been altered to a four point harness and thus were acceptable to the powers that be and the pilots. I might suggest you ask over at Aussie Modeller and see if Peter Malone can advise you further.
HTH
Regards
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Nick,
You are far more patient with the area than I was. I just sort of squared the lip off with a small file and brute forced it with clamps and CA to get mine to a "reasonable" level.
I recall now that I used the kit storage cover and shaped it to "almost" fit. It was my first resin pit though. I have the EE pit for my next attempt!The remainder is looking superb and the Aires wheel bays are now becoming a consideration for my next a/c (I see a set of 190A on Ebay for a fair price at the moment). The one thging that annoys me is the fact Aires "assume" you know how to install their stuff. I have a 1/48 F4U-1A cockpit at the moment that tells me bugger all about how to fit it!!!
Stay the course and keep the updates coming
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Thanks a lot Kent!
Indded, I found some interesting pictures on this site.
This will also help me to illustrate some of the comments. Look and you'll see the difference I mentioned regarding the bomb supports. I used pictures of two 112sq Kittyhawks taken from a similar angle to show the difference. The right one is AK778 is from the initial Kittyhawk I batch (P-40D) whereas the left one (ET790) was from a later IA one (P-40E). Some other initial batch airframes (such as Neville Duke AK578) had no support on the known pictures. Consequently, I suspect that the bomb shackles were field installed on the first batch whereas they were standard on the later ones.
I also enclosed two other pictures showing the use of the Sutton harness in Kittyhawks. The first one shows a Kittyhawk II of the RAAF 450Sq in Malta (circa July 43) whereas the other shows a RAAF Kittyhawk I of the 76sq in New Guinea (circa July 42).
Regards.
Glad I was able to help. You will also notice the different pitot tube on the two a/c.
Regards,
Kent
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Thanks for the info!
BTW, there is a picture in the Detail & scale showing a US Warhawk with paper sheets on the ammo chute holes!
I discovered another difference between the US and British P-40s: early Kittyhawks used a different bomb support with sway braces located further, near the tail of the plane. However, finding a good picture of this device is another matter... :-(
Thierry,
Try the Australian War Memorial website: http://www.awm.gov.au/ and see if they have some photos.
Regards,
Kent
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Thierry,
In relation to question 2
There were very few P-40D's made and I recall reading that whilst only four guns were fitted, the hardware and mounting points for all six were still present (although the guns themselves were absent). This may appear to make six guns but there were only four. I think this was in the Squadron P-40 walkaround or in action ( I don't have them to hand). I also think that they may have been requipped with the extra two guns at the request of the pilots, particularly Duke I think, as well. I am sure somebody who has more knowledge will be along shortly. You might also try over at Aussie Modeller http://www.aussiemodeller.com/pages/discus...roup/forum.html as a few of the guys, Peter Malone and Gary Byk for example over there specialise in Desert P-40's.
You might also try here: http://www.p40warhawk.com/index.htm
HTH
Regards
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Nicely done Nick. I like the common sense approach you are using to problem solve. The harness looks the bees knees. Just a reminder to paint the lever in the LH lower instrument panel before you finish...I would probably be forgetting something like that in all the excitment of installation and it is a pain
Keep the good work coming
Regards
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You can also try beading wire which is sold at craft shops. Kev has used wire he stripped out of an old electrical cable in his 262 build in the "A trip to Russville" GB here at LSP. That looks quite good. HTH
Regards
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Noice...real noice...
Keep up the great work
Regards
Fw190 D-9 "Red 18" I./Erg. KG (J) Plzeň, Czechoslovakia
in Works in Progress
Posted
Mate you just beat me to it as I found them myself just a while ago. However I read it as the starboard wheel well not port (page 49) maybe just a typo?
Regards