Flettner FL-265 Scrachtbiuld 1:35

[Aluxe]

After many years of knowing splendid work, always wanted to do a single model, using some known techniques, welding, scratch, vacumform, own decals, resin, photoeatch, wiring, and of course metallic paint, all together, but the technology opens more options without belittling 3D printing, maybe we add some laser cut .
 

I think not only plastic modeler lives. The experience of putting together a box model can be as pleasurable as scratch build a model. Not difficult but different, because for me the models of scratch has its own techniques, methods and tools. Although sometimes we do not have desired results.
 

Well, also select the model is important , in my case I wanted to make a WWII era helicopter in 1/35 scale, so after analyzing my options had 2 candidates:
Sikorsky R-4 Hoverfly

 

and Flettner FL -265

 

so the high command asked for help ( my wife) who chose the FL -265 , so get to work:

 

this is the first piece, built in Styrene, took the chair as a guide 48 scale (which I have only picture) and you can see the differences in scale 72.

 

edges aligned parts and install the cushion covered in leather (the material used is Mulliput, artisans carved with spatulas, and the buttons used a hypodermic needle 22G)

 

first saddle, bases and high-arcecamiento system adapted, styrene was used and in the case of the gears used fourth gear clock.

 

Here is a small presentation as it should be-

Well for now this is what we could do, we will continue .

[LSP_Kevin]

Wow, great start on a unique subject!

 

Kev

[Derek B]

Great work Aluxe (and welcome)  

 

I fully intend to scratch build a 1/32 Flettner Fl-282 Kolibri (probably as a master pattern) when I can get around to doing it.

 

Regards

 

Derek

[Aluxe]

Hello again

Now experiment with the art Laser cutting . I use the oldie but useful program to convert a Corel Draw vector image, design and clean up; then rectify structural measures basing Special Hobby model and the real performance and with this I managed this (left) highlighted in Table
After designed the contours that will guide the model curiously half of the fuselage is the front of canvas and metal

Now prepared the file for laser cutting, the material I used is styrene 1mm thick, and after several attempts (due to heat control cutting ) got this :

As we all know the styrene plastic to put in intense heat quickly melts and cools just as this happened to the court, there are well cut parts and welded parts ( nothing a good sanding will not cure ) originally expected an exact cut , what the engineer says cutting me is that because it is an unknown material they will try to find the right size for the laser cut , so I still left some files to test ...
Well, after one day at home will cleanse .

Then remove them was no problem .


And as I could not stand the desire , I made a small presentation on how it should be ...


It gets good this skeleton is ready ! ...

regards

[Aluxe]

started structural assembly, sanding once I put the ribs.

 

placement of braces costilalr verifying maintain the same distance between them, and the extent to avoid imbalances chassis.

 

Now the floor of the driver, I decided to do it in wood veneer

for now it is all colleagues, Greetings

[LSP_Kevin]

What an amazing approach! If I may ask, how much did the laser cutting cost?

 

Kev

[wunwinglow]

Fascinating approach! Muchas gracias, Aluxe! Buen suerte con este project!

 

Tim

[Aluxe]

What an amazing approach! If I may ask, how much did the laser cutting cost?

 

Kev

Hello Kevin

Thanks for the comment, let me go forward, not uncomfortable question, The cost is $ 0.60 dollar per minute and this cut was 4 minutes and a lot of excitement to see the cut ... jjj on fire .... the best graduate manager commented that the laser...

 

Hi Tim

 

I appreciate your excellent translation into Spanish,

 

Gracias Amigo

[Aluxe]

Now do a little Scratch

after much thought and not "get the patch" I started with the engine:

this model wearing the Siemens-Halske SH 14 engine that was used by more than twenty aircraft, gyroplanes and the Luftwafe Helos before and during WWII

 

the idea is to make it 100% scratch, and here we start ....

1 - with a paper punch, made ​​over 30 7mm diameter wheels.
2 -. Drilled the center at a rate of 3mm, this measure will be the styrene I need to simulate one of the 7 cylinders, you will end 7mm high x 4.5mm thick.
3 - I install 8 wheels in a space no larger than 4mm
4 -. Sandpaper give ovoid trying to imitate the original model.

 

5 - put the lid over 2 bases where the aims are

 

6,. and now we are paar block 7 cylinders

 

7 - Piston I let it sit for paste well and add the exhaust and tickets to the spark plugs.

good up here and spend excellent assemblies

 

Ernesto Ojeda

[wunwinglow]

Muy bien!

 

Tim

[LSP_Kevin]

Wow!

 

Kev

[Aluxe]

thanks guys

Here presenting some progress. Now some RESIN technique, previously elaborated piece molding, and here parts cylinder and rocker, (I do not love photography)

 

 

in this next looks better. here already assembled the engine inclutendo rocker arms and the rods connected by the crank mechanism.

 

 

 

 

Here already painted aluminum rocker little arms were placed, the white band is for wiring plugs.

Edited February 1, 2015 by Aluxe

[Aluxe]

for now, we resins; and we do some VACUUMFORM

 

I had always seen the work in vacumform, and had been concerned to see how its done ... for lack of this was reviewing the internet .. and decided that this technique would get better results for some parts of my project, but I had three challenges : 1 I make mold wood (with zero experience), 2 ° have not emptied machinery and 3rd how?
So get to work; lso first make molds for this thought the mahogany would not proved me to be very hard, then find out the raft ... very expensive, so use pine, cut and shape di dremel and sandpaper, considering that the better polished look better without strange ways, the truth, I felt my first mold was good, and so I decided with the other ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 3, 2019 by Aluxe

[Aluxe]

and with the molds still make the bulb, for this I kept the best option I found

http://www.network54.com/Forum/657050/message/1331928809/Termodin%C3%A1mica+espuria+%E2%80%93+Vacuformado+en+el+hogar

 

And skipping some pasitos got the bulb

 

 

The truth worked very well, leaning on an ordinary vacuum, and doing several tests

 

Here the first results, for the first time.,,, I think anything bad ...

 

continue to soldier on with this project, I had fun using new techniques, hopefully is well ...

regards

[LSP_Kevin]

That's some amazing work. Old school, but brilliant.

 

Kev