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Tamiya P-51D, Sinai, 1956, Finished, 2.1.18

Tamiya P-51D Mustang

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#61 Wolf Buddee

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 06:01 AM

Nice work Mark! Have you tried to dry fit the engine in to it's carrier mount and add the exhaust shroud? One thing I found with the Spitfire is that the framework that supports the exhaust shroud sits very tight to the cylinder head and interferes with the plug wires if they are set proud of the cylinder head. What you've done may make the exhaust shroud not fit. Just check before you get too far. That's why I didn't bother to represent the spark-plugs and just drilled holes in the cylinder heads to accept the solder plug wires. If I'm not totally mistaken, the "T" shaped apparatus below the ignition conduit, mounted to the side of the engine block is the oil pressure regulator and an external pressure gauge could be fitted to check oil pressure during maintenance. Where did you source the braided line for the flexible ignition conduit?

One other observation, you may want to change the orientation of the tow bar eyelet pieces at the bottom of the main gear legs. They should be oriented horizontally rather than vertically if you know what I mean.

Cheers,
Wolf

Edited by Wolf Buddee, 18 March 2012 - 06:12 AM.

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#62 LSP_Ron

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 06:33 AM

Nice work Mark! Have you tried to dry fit the engine in to it's carrier mount and add the exhaust shroud? One thing I found with the Spitfire is that the framework that supports the exhaust shroud sits very tight to the cylinder head and interferes with the plug wires if they are set proud of the cylinder head. What you've done may make the exhaust shroud not fit. Just check before you get too far. That's why I didn't bother to represent the spark-plugs and just drilled holes in the cylinder heads to accept the solder plug wires. If I'm not totally mistaken, the "T" shaped apparatus below the ignition conduit, mounted to the side of the engine block is the oil pressure regulator and an external pressure gauge could be fitted to check oil pressure during maintenance.


I had exactly the same experience. Spend hours wiring the plugs to find the shroud doesn't fit and had to rip them out. The ones on the top intake area of the engine will fit fine.
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#63 dodgem37

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 10:29 AM

Thank you, Wolf, Ron.

'Have you tried to dry fit the engine in to it's carrier mount and add the exhaust shroud?'
I have not, but I now shall. I've only been test fitting into the mount.

'Where did you source the braided line for the flexible ignition conduit?'
http://www.detailmas...y_Code=DM-Braid

'One other observation, you may want to change the orientation of the tow bar eyelet pieces at the bottom of the main gear legs. They should be oriented horizontally rather than vertically if you know what I mean.'
I do know what you mean. When I was punching discs, drilling holes, and looking at my references I noticed how 'Dragon got it right and Tamiya got it wrong'. I had forgotten about it. Appreciate you bringing it back to life. I'll look into it.

Thanks for looking in.
Sincerely,
Mark

#64 LSP_Ron

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 12:25 AM

I had exactly the same experience. Spend hours wiring the plugs to find the shroud doesn't fit and had to rip them out. The ones on the top intake area of the engine will fit fine.


I am getting my builds mixed up :mental: :doh: I had this problem on my Spit build. I didn't try wiring the Mustang's engine because the cowl is closed.
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Ron

 

 

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When I die, I'll be on time

 

 


#65 Tomek

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 01:56 PM

Pure pleasure to follow your build, Mark!
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#66 AceofClubs

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 06:59 PM

Wow Mark, spectacular details. Bravissimo :m0152:
Ciao
Filippo
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#67 dodgem37

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 09:37 AM

Ron, I'm now wishing I had decided to close the cowling, as well. Maybe it's not too late. There's plenty to show without the engine.

Thank you, Tomek. It too is my pleasure to follow your build.

Thank you, Filippo. Your jumping beans make me smile.

Well, after viewing Wolfs' Magnificent Merlin it became clear to me that it was time to stop short-changing this build. Call it Winter Doldrums, Residual Effect from the near disaster of the K-4 build, or whatEVERRR! I was comprimising too many decisions for no sake at all.

So with renewed vigor, and X-Acto blade, I began again.

Posted Image
Making a loom. I've got more than a few more of these to make. Hard drive communication cable wiring.

Posted Image
In place. The electrical line closest to the camera: I drilled the styrene rod and inserted a brass rod so when the 90degree bend was made the rod retained its shape.

Posted Image
A simple jig to drill .030 punched hex nuts. I squeezed the strips to hold the nut in place while I center punched and drilled. These have been doubled up.

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In place. The discs are .005. 2 stacked .010 discs were too thick, and a single .010 disc was not accurate. So I punched out large and small .005 discs. Stacked hex nuts as retainers. .012 brass rod.

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A simple jig to cut .010 hex nuts from rod.

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The reason for all of those .010 hex nuts.

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Re-doing 2 of these took most of the time. Doesn't look very different from before in this view. But it's 99% brand new.

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A difference can be seen in this view. Following Wolfs' lead I searched thru my references to see if the tie-down ring could be found in a position other than horizontal and came up blank. But that is not to say there may be something on the net, where I did not search. Because, it doesn't make sense to me that the tie-down would not be on a swivel. Anyway, I shaved it off and rotated it, redid the brake line and tie in to the brake cylinder, and added a nut and grease fitting at the top. The green insulation is supposed to represent lock nuts.

Posted Image
2 new nuts; different sizes, a grease fitting, a punched disc at the resin bolt, and a new flexible hose to strut connection, which is more in synch with the real deal. I am awaiting new punches so I can punch a couple of sub-miniature discs.

2 more below.
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#68 dodgem37

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 09:39 AM

Posted Image
All dressed up, front side view.

Posted Image
All dressed up, back side view.

Thanks for looking in.
Sincerely,
Mark
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#69 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 09:52 AM

Incredible work as usual Mark, and super problem-solving too with the jig for cutting the hex nuts. These will look fantastic with some paint on!

Kev
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#70 AceofClubs

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 06:05 PM

Hi Mark, outstanding wip pics. Many thanks for your hints and tips tutorials! But could you, please, replace actual rubber wheels (with those ... seams) with better resin ones (from your own made cast, of course :rolleyes:)?
All the best
Filippo
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#71 Cpig

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 11:40 PM

Superb work Mark!
Joe
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#72 Ripaman

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 06:27 AM

Hi Mark,
Just looked into the Mustang GB and found you :wow: not sure how I missed this. Just read the whole WIP and you are doing some fantastic work on her, will be watching every update from now on.

Regards
Richard
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#73 dodgem37

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 12:02 AM

Thank you, thank you, thank you! One and all for stopping by and eliciting such nice comments!

A minor update. Some quickly accomplished and some very time consuming.

Some quickly accomplished stuff:
DSCN6558.jpg

Drilled .025 styrene rod, with brass rod insert. I made an eyelette at the base of both brass rods to capture the stainless steel rod Tamiya supplies. I didn't like the stainless steel sides Tamiya supplied so I used them as a stencil and cut replacements from .010 sheet.

DSCN6568.jpg
Drilled a couple of holes into the indents Tamiya supplied and punched a few hex nuts. That is the drill bit I used to drill a squared inner face opening. If I had used a round tipped bit the back face would have been rounded and the hex would not have set flat.

Time-consuming stuff:
DSCN6562.jpg
I redid the heater, laminating .005 to .010 so I can squeeze in an electrical line. Fixed the heater top, added a punched disc, and remade the 2 insulation pieces. I hope to loom the solenoid wire and have it branch off and enter the solenoid. We'll see.

DSCN6565.jpg
A couple of hex nuts to start things off. Added a strip of .005 to extend the sides.

DSCN6564.jpg
Punched a bunch of discs to make a couple of pulleys. .010 disc laminated between two .005 discs. .010 rod bolts cut with a single edge razer. I have found that using a single edge razer is the biggest key to cutting these. An X-Acto blade is too thick.

DSCN6566.jpg
Who knows what contraption this is? But it goes on top of the strut. Punched .010 disc as base. 1/16" x 2mm rod with .010 solder wrapped around it. Another punched disc. Punched hex nut on top. Shaped .005 bits. .010 rod. .010 square strip.

DSCN6570.jpg
All made up. 1/16" rod as shafts, punched .005 sheet spacers. Thin rod is .010.

DSCN6569.jpg
Another view.

DSCN6572.jpg
Last one. Too bad it won't be seen up there in the fuselage. Oh, well. It was a good thought, anyway. Even if it is way too overdone.

Thanks for looking in.
Sincerely,
Mark


Edited by dodgem37, 18 January 2018 - 10:06 PM.

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#74 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 12:21 AM

Fantastic work Mark. You have such a great eye for detail, and such a great knack for reproducing it in miniature.

Kev
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#75 LSP_Ron

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 01:00 AM

Wow, very nice work

Ron

Ron

 

 

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