Zero77 Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 (edited) Now dry-transfer. A real PITA.... First try, with a metal burnishing tool : Ouch ! Aweful result....Even after a few tries to recover the shine. And this time with a wooden burnishing tool, actually simply a toothpick : Not perfect but better. I think it would be possible if it's done with great care. The key would be to only press on the transfer and avoid rubbing the carrier film where there is no stencil. Edited December 17, 2014 by Zero77 EmperorKai 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Zero,If you feel like you want to give decals a try, I have also had some good luck applying decals with writing and clear carrier, over delicate NMF (foil in this case, but still the same process should work) by dipping the backside of the decal you are placing in Future, then applying from there, and it seems to really help hide the carrier. Not sure how best to proceed with the dry stencils since it is a waxy base for them. Zero77 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Thanks for the tip Brian ! I know that great quality decals can have a very thin and hardly noticeable carrier. But for the Kinetic decals, i dont know if they will be that good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Thanks for all ur efforts testing this type of product! Now thanks to your experimentation, I think I'm going to get some RNB, and some AK metallics and give it a go myself! Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Nice show and tell !.......Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Hi Zero. The Rub N Buff looks superb. I thought the image of the airframe was metal foil. Your experiences is why I've never used it. The surface is extremely delicate unless sealed and then it just loses the real metal appearance. A similar thing is true of MrMetalcote metallics. They are delicate too which is why I reserve them for small parts. It doers look as though your experimentation is heading the right direction. Keep at it, I'm sure the end results will be worth all of the effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattlow Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Hi Couple of thoughts. Can you not just leave the masking on the stripes until you've buffed up the 'R&B'? That would protect your colours. Other thought. You could try applying the stripes after the R&B, but use damp paper for the masking. This would be damp enough to hold and br taken off pretty much straight after you've sprayed. It won't have any tack so should not affect the finish at all... I have been thinking about this for an EE Lightning I'm building. Matt Zero77 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Thanks for your advices ! I think i'll try the damp paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 (edited) Here is what it looks like now, with a few more panels treated with the AK metal finish (i've added a few more after shooting the pictures) : And i've started to mask it to paint the yellow stripes (i think i will make an aircraft from the 81FBS... the squadron insigna is more tricky to do, but it is full yellow and i almost dont have anything yellow in my display case, while i already have some red). Finally i've decided to make a try with frisket and a few tamiya masking tape, but i've stick them at least 2 or 3 times on my hand to make them as less sticky as possible. After a few tries it seems to be ok, and even if i have a bit of Rub-n-buff that take off with the tape, i'll repair it later. It's fast an easy. My main concern is the stencils. So tonite i'll be spraying the yellow stripes. Edited December 18, 2014 by Zero77 EmperorKai 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oppenheimer Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Zero, the NMF looks amazing, congrats on that finish, by looking at the pictures you have the same problem on the wings a had on mine, on mine i will paint first the yellow band and then will go with the ALCLAD, also to avoid the problem with the carrier films from the decals all the insignia and the bigger letter will be painted, i have all the stencils already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 After a few other tests about rub-n-buff, it seems that it can bear masking if fully cured. 24h later, the tamiya masking tape doesn't take off any (or a very few) metallic particle. The AK True metal seems to be more resistant to masking as if it is heavily glazed it doesnt seem to take off with masking tape, even a few minutes after application. Here is a step by step application of AK true metal, followed by a heavy polishing until mirror effect : Application with a brush : Starting polishing (with kitchen towel) : Polishing done ! Yes it's very reflective ! And the masking tape test (24h cured RNB on the wingroot side and AK TM applied for a few minutes on the wingtip side) : EmperorKai and Uncarina 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) A few pictures of the resin main wheel bays and airbrake bays : And the frisket masking : Yellow painting started ! But i think i've made a big mistake with the yellow stripes.... Usually i always spray a mist of white as a thin primer prior to paint anything yellow, because this color covers very badly. But as when i've done my first tests i've gone with a direct application of the yellow and it was pretty good (a mix of RLM24 with a few drops of gloss off-white) and it seemed to me that the coverage was good, so i decided to try to do the same on the F-86.... I should have never done that.... The coverage was not that good, and i disliked the tint. So i had to insist, the paint thickness built up, and i had to finish with a mist of gloss insigna yellow mixed with tamiya flat yellow to make the stripes brighter. The color is not that bad, but i fear that the stripes are now too thick and the surface details are a bit thicken. I will see when i'll unmask it. If i dislike the result, i will restart it all and will paint the stripes first, before the NMF. I still have to paint the black lines, but yesterday after an episode of "the walking dead" i fell asleep on my couch... Edited December 19, 2014 by Zero77 EmperorKai and Harold 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Looks very promising !.........Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 WOW Bring it on ... looking fantastic. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Thanks Peter but it doesn't look so good now ! What i've done? First, i've keep masking for the black lines, but only for 1 wing, in order to see if everything was OK. Then unmasking. It looks not so bad. But from closer there is a few imperfections : But the worst is that the yellow coat is very fragile, a kind of egg shell.... The slightest pressure with a hard object makes the paint chip.... Argggg ! And i have a bit of overspray under the masks in some areas : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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