Another Tamiya Mosquito

[gwana]

Well, here goes, my first public grown-up build. Having aired my demons in a previous post, I'm going to try to document my learning experience by starting a build thread. Hopefully I can stay motivated and get some feedback as I progress. Pay no attention to the parts of other kits floating around on my bench in this shot - I've been jumping around lately building things and not doing much past basic paintwork.

 

So, having never weathered anything (unless I can count lighting on fire as weathering), I present one Merlin engine as an exercise in light and shadow, which to me now looks a lot more like a hunk of used iron than a chunk of new plastic. Further detail painting will come as well as a semi-gloss varnish, and I may add some additional plumbing. Or I may not, since I tend to come off the rails and wander off into detail hell. I will be using HGW harnesses and Master gun barrels, otherwise pretty much OOB. Undecided on decals.

 

 

There's also a bit of cockpit visible, where I'm playing with chipping. So far I'm quite pleased with how it's going. I can also see that I'm going to have to dig out my digital camera. Phone isn't cutting it.

 

 

 

[LSP_Kevin]

That's a great start, mate!

 

Kev

[BloorwestSiR]

I agree with Kev, a very nice start.

 

Your workbench looks a lot like mine.

 

On a really bad day:

 

 

And more typically:

 

 

 

Carl

[Astro32]

Awesome so far! Bear in mind, since I'm Grand Poobah of this quadrant of the galaxy, you are required to ship your first build here to me.

But seriously, it's a nice kit. Personally, I'm glad they haven't come out with a bomber version, at least not yet. Same would go for the Airfix 24th scale offering. The bomber version is definitely my favorite. However the Tamiya kit done up in RAAF silver is a stunner. I might yet be tempted.....

Anyway, have fun and good luck!

[Bstarr3]

Great start, Gwana!  This is a magnificent kit, but be prepared for a long haul.  I've been working on mine since I got it for Christmas!  Allow me to suggest masks instead of decals for markings.  When working on chipping, bear in mind which parts of the plane are metal and which are wood. I messed up on a couple places in either direction. 

[MikeMaben]

So, having never weathered anything (unless I can count lighting on fire as weathering),

 

Yes yes that is one of the more basic forms of weathering.

No problem there , please continue on ... :popcorn:

[gwana]

It is a big kit. I do most of my messy work on the weekends, but I like to pick out small sub-assemblies from various kits and piece them together in the evening while the TV is on. So I have the engines and the wheels assembled, and I'm working on the instrument panel.

 

Has there been a definitive answer on the color of the engine bulkheads? I thought I saw some posts that said the Tamiya instructions were wrong in the nacelles, as were some of the restored birds.

 

And a technique question: I really struggle with detail painting and keeping paint 'within the lines' and not getting it on adjacent details. I have magnifiers, tiny brushes, and a shaky hand. I can't draw a straight line to save my life unless a ruler is involved. Anyone conquered this?

[Out2gtcha]

No worries on weathering. Its all down to you and how you like to build.   

 

And a technique question: I really struggle with detail painting and keeping paint 'within the lines' and not getting it on adjacent details. I have magnifiers, tiny brushes, and a shaky hand. I can't draw a straight line to save my life unless a ruler is involved. Anyone conquered this?

 

I tend to use liquid mask in certain situations when small details call for it. However, in a lot of circumstances it just calls for getting in there and hand painting things. Sometimes on ultra small details I can go over things 2,3, 4 or more times back and forth as I slowly but surely get small details painted, and then fix the things I accidentally painted adjacent to what I was trying to paint in the first place. 

 

Ive found its also about not using the smallest brush necessarily, but one that has the smallest detail tip. For me, I usually like to use a brush that has a bit longer head for more flexibility, but also retains a tight, flat and small head on it for very small detail work, not necessarily one that has a really "pointed" head. 

 

I have found that for small detail painting a "Liner" size 1 brush with a medium and not super short head works best for me:

 

 

 

HTH in some way

[Astro32]

 I can't draw a straight line to save my life unless a ruler is involved. Anyone conquered this?

Covering one hand with the other to steady the brush can help. Another trick, though somewhat limited, is this: Lets say you've got to do a colored band on a landing gear leg. Paint the gear as you normally would, then let dry thoroughly of course. Next, dip the leg in a jar of paint that's the band color you need, then carefully dab the excess off below the stripe. After drying, dip the leg in the original gear color, allowing for the width of the stripe you need. Repeat the dabbing of excess paint, then touch up with your airbrush. It's just like decorating an Easter egg. Works well for spinners too. I find that acrylic paint for the stripe works best. Might be worth a try! Otherwise, practice, practice, practice!

[Bstarr3]

It is a big kit. I do most of my messy work on the weekends, but I like to pick out small sub-assemblies from various kits and piece them together in the evening while the TV is on. So I have the engines and the wheels assembled, and I'm working on the instrument panel.

 

Has there been a definitive answer on the color of the engine bulkheads? I thought I saw some posts that said the Tamiya instructions were wrong in the nacelles, as were some of the restored birds.

 

And a technique question: I really struggle with detail painting and keeping paint 'within the lines' and not getting it on adjacent details. I have magnifiers, tiny brushes, and a shaky hand. I can't draw a straight line to save my life unless a ruler is involved. Anyone conquered this?

Based on my review of references and other builds, I painted both sides of the engine firewall aluminum, and the inside of the gear bay nacelles in interior green.

 

I agree with above re painting details - for this it's worth getting a more expensive brush that will hold a fine point really well.  A "spotter" or "liner" brush is good, and I've got an expensive ($10) 0 that holds a much finer point than a cheap ($10 for a set of five) 3-0.  Steady your hand with the other hand, or by resting as much of it as you can on something else - the part being painted, the work surface - holding your hands out in free space is the enemy when you're trying to avoid tremor. Also, load the brush lightly to avoid spillover.  A few passes of drybrushing can yield very good results as well. 

[gwana]

No worries on weathering. Its all down to you and how you like to build.   

 

 

I tend to use liquid mask in certain situations when small details call for it. However, in a lot of circumstances it just calls for getting in there and hand painting things. Sometimes on ultra small details I can go over things 2,3, 4 or more times back and forth as I slowly but surely get small details painted, and then fix the things I accidentally painted adjacent to what I was trying to paint in the first place. 

 

Ive found its also about not using the smallest brush necessarily, but one that has the smallest detail tip. For me, I usually like to use a brush that has a bit longer head for more flexibility, but also retains a tight, flat and small head on it for very small detail work, not necessarily one that has a really "pointed" head. 

 

I have found that for small detail painting a "Liner" size 1 brush with a medium and not super short head works best for me:

 

 

 

HTH in some way

 It does help, thanks! I started discovering on my own that my 000 was not the way to go, since it doesn't hold any paint. I think I also need to get some enamels for brush painting, because I try too hard to cover in the first pass and the Tamiya paints just seem to bead up sometimes.

[gwana]

Covering one hand with the other to steady the brush can help. Another trick, though somewhat limited, is this: Lets say you've got to do a colored band on a landing gear leg. Paint the gear as you normally would, then let dry thoroughly of course. Next, dip the leg in a jar of paint that's the band color you need, then carefully dab the excess off below the stripe. After drying, dip the leg in the original gear color, allowing for the width of the stripe you need. Repeat the dabbing of excess paint, then touch up with your airbrush. It's just like decorating an Easter egg. Works well for spinners too. I find that acrylic paint for the stripe works best. Might be worth a try! Otherwise, practice, practice, practice!

 

Interesting! Many decades ago, my dad taught me the dip trick for prop tips, but I hadn't thought about it for other parts.

[Gerhard]

Yes yes that is one of the more basic forms of weathering.

No problem there , please continue on ... :popcorn:

I tried that, must have screwed because my kit turned into something that represents am alien life form. Too much heat you think? Gwana, weathering is an art, I try and watch as many videos as I can, but still mess things up. You are doing great. 

[gwana]

Here is where the 'pit stands as of this morning:

 

 

It would seem my crew has very muddy boots...

[Out2gtcha]

 It does help, thanks! I started discovering on my own that my 000 was not the way to go, since it doesn't hold any paint. I think I also need to get some enamels for brush painting, because I try too hard to cover in the first pass and the Tamiya paints just seem to bead up sometimes.

 

 

Yes, IMHO acrylics are HORRIBLE for brush painting small detail parts. For me, they dry up and crust way too fast. I would definitely go with enamels for brush painting. I find they flow a lot better, and offer a smoother texture on smaller detail painted parts.