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He-219 A-2 Revell Quickbuild


dutik

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Painted the cockpit instruments and added a gazillion of small decals. Looks good but is fiddly. Take care - a few of the instrument dials are printed together with the instruction numbers on one piece of decal film.

The radio suite is missing a well visible dial at the large round instrument at the lower end. This instrument is some kind of direction indicator. Added a large white decal from Airscales WW1 decal sheet. Most WW2 decals are simply too small.

 

he219-51eu0z.jpg

 

Added first quantities of ballast into the cavities. More to come.

 

Got the first UC bay covered with PE. Still missing some small braces, but nothing substancial.

 

he219-6wdu0t.jpg

 

Hear my advice: The center floor plate is too wide to fit with sidewalls installed. I strongly suggest to cut off a half Millimeter at both sides before folding and installing the part. Easy task and it saves you a a lot of frustration.

 

Regards

- dutik

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Using PE is of course a contradiction to a quickbuild, but it teaches lessons about physics. Materia doesn't vanish. Ever heared about this? Physics.

 

But then and when the universe slips. I've lost a large PE part in the working process. Over an inch long, bright and shiny. It wasn't tweezerlaunched, it just fell down from the desk. Gone. Not able to rediscover it...

Went off to play some video games (Normandy landings, lost a whole bdn of Ronsons to the sleek cats - but we took the town). Got hit into the leg during the fighting by a shell splinter:

 

he219-7wks4z.jpg

 

Einstein was right. Materia doesn't vanish. Here it is, the lost PE. Thank you, mate!

 

Slapped it (the PE, not Einstein) into the front UC bay and added some paint. Here we are:

 

he219-8a0s0q.jpg

 

It is the cable duct at the center. The UC bay is not well engeniered. There are two inserts left and right from the sidewalls that did not fit very well. You have to deal with a gap and a sinkhole right at the top of the UC bay, in a well visible place. OK, putty and sanding is always an option, even in restrained spaces, but then you loose the few details provided by Revell. Added strip styrene across the gap and some more to adjust the hight along the cable duct, then covered it finally with the PE part. Looks OK now.

Revell also blocked the large holes at one side. They are open at the real aircraft. But Revell did so only at one side. The holes at the other side are open... Your decision.

Without any detail parts given by Revell or the PE set I blocked all holes and used the extra space to fill in more ballast. Quickbuild, you know. Good enough for this one. If you want nice and detailled UC bays go for the ZM kit. You get what you pay for. Just saying.

 

Regards

- dutik

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Wait till you see the real deal!

 

I will fill more of the lead pearls between port fuselage and canopy. There is a hollow space that I blocked in all directions except the front. Some solid lead will be glued behind the IP and some more behind the rear bulkhead. Some more lead pearls go into the space between armored front bulkhead and nose cone. This is a smal compartment only but the most foremost. The center of the radiator faces is also planned if the nosewight should proof to be insufficient.

 

Regards

- dutik

Edited by dutik
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The cockpit is in place. Filled the cavity behind the port consoles with liquid gravity. You know about liquid gravity? Physics lessons, part two:

 

While Einstein was tinkering with his theories he discoverad a liquid state of the gravity. Just a byproduct of his great work. Nowadays they know how to bottle it. Here it is:

 

he219-109lsmq.jpg

 

This is how it looks applied to the model:

 

he219-12los37.jpg

 

Also added some solid lead ballast behind the instrument paneel and at the rear bulkhead.

 

he219-11hesxx.jpg

 

Weight does matter. All togheter this adds to 50 grams. To be honest: The cockpit is now that heavy the I have to handle the whole fuselage by the cockpit part to avoid snapping it off.

 

he219-132qs7f.jpg

 

If this is not enough when I closed the fuselage and added tail and wings: There is more space on top of the fuselage as well as inside the the parts that hold the prop axles...

 

Regards

- dutik

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Fuselage closed. Glued it with styrene glue first. Later I filled superglue into the cavities, moved the fuselage up and down to distribute the superglue along the seam, followed by a shot of filler pearls and more moving around. Then did the same for the seam at the other side. Doing so with all my builds to prevent the fuselages from cracking open over the time. The kit design also allowed to place strip styrene from outside along the top and bottom of the fuselage. This will help to make it more rigid. Well done, Revell!

 

Meanwhile added the upper hull fillet and some putty to the seam along the belly.

 

he219-14fosur.jpg

 

Regards

- dutik

Edited by dutik
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Hi Dutil

I had a look at my build thread and this is what I added in weight to stop my little Owl being a tail sitter.

My not so little Owl is now standing up on it's own three legs, but only just, the kit instructions would have you put 70g of weight in the fuselage and 25g in each engine nacelle, I put 80g in the fuselage and 30g in each nacelle but when I finished fitting the undercarriage and turned it the right way up it sat there on it's tail laughing at me.

My first though was to remove the engine cowlings and replace the cooler blocks in there with lead but the idea of plastic surgery at this stage in the build did not thrill me, so I fabricated a new roof for the nose wheel well consisting of lead strips 1/8" thick glued it in and painted it RLM 02.

In total I added another 38g, and that was only just enough, the slightest touch makes it tip over onto it's tail, I think it could be the height and angle of the nose undercarriage that causes the problem, but it's fixed now, and I can now carry on adding the fiddley bits.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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Dennis, thank you for stopping here. I will check the issue when the wings, tail and flaps are on.

I still hold back to fit the belly part until then. So I have the option to glue more lead right behind the cockpit if needed. Not to mention some small compartments at hand here and there.

Quick check with wings and elevators on at least was ok. We shall see.

 

Regards

- dutik

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Did a new check - the tailplanes are ok, but the endplates are amazingly massive parts and add a lot of weight. The plane tilted back  without all the hinged flaps on. Simple solution:

 

Put more lead on target!!!

 

he219-15mujvy.jpg

 

Used the left-open space at the lower side. Cut a massive 100 grams fishing weight in half, removed as required to fit into the fuselage and still had 30 more grams of lead in place.

 

This did the trick...

Still have space left between nose cone and front bulkhead of the cockpit as well as at the rear of the cockpit deck, inside the front UC bay (could add a lead plate to one sidewall), not to mention the inside of that cones inside the engine faces (that hold the prop axles).

 

Regards

- dutik

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Filled more liquid gravity into the cones inside the engine nacelles faces. Part 94 or 95 in the Revell kit. The white styrene strips are just to add more surface to glue the cones to the engeine nacelles. They sit not flush, but spaced at four small pins. With all that lead inside a reinforcement is always a good idea. The rear faces are completly hidden once the cowls (and radiators inside the cowls) are installed.

 

he219-16wpu7w.jpg

 

Now I have 50 grams of liquid gravity installed plus 10+10+30 grams of solid lead. We shall see. Still have empty spaces at the cockpit front and a small one at the upper rear cockpit deck that will be hidden under the solid part of the rear canopy. Not to mention that the belly tray is still off.

 

Regards

- dutik

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