Control comes from experience. Extended working time also translates into slow evaporation, which can lead to problems after the joint is expected to be fully cured (see below).
I agree-so why should I get experience with something I don't need or want, when what I have and use works fine?
Liquid cements weld the parts together (fusion joint), as opposed to sticking them together (mechanical joint) with CA or other types of "glues". Given that, there is rarely any need to make joints stronger than the surrounding parts, unless the glue being used isn't up to the task at hand...
So does the solvent in all Testors products, whether the more viscus tube-type cements, both regular and non-toxic.
Gap-filling is a completely different thing from assembling parts, and is treated as such. Personal philosophy on that subject is: If the parts don't fit together properly, make them fit together before applying any kind of glue. As an absolute last resort, stretched sprue or styrene shims can be used to span gaps, and then painted with MEK to weld everything together. But, everyone has their own pet method of gap-filling.
Only if you choose to handle the situation in that manner. I have frequently successfully done both at once with tube-type cements.
CA works great for rigging and other small jobs where relatively weak mechanical joints are acceptable.
There again, it depends.
Loctite's CNA Control Gel when used in multiple applications around the perimeter of larger assemblies has worked fine for my 1/32 HC/Trumpeter F4F, Monogram 1/32 F3F, Lindberg He-111, Accurate Miniatures Grumman TBF, etc., etc.
I never understood why anyone would apply liquid cement to a parts and then join them. The whole point of liquid cement is to join the parts and apply the cement to the assembled joint - the cement wicks into the joint no mater how tight-fitting it may seem to be. In the case of MEK, simply hold them together if need be for about 10 seconds, and the joint is solid forever. Off-the-shelf liquid cements can take longer, sometimes MUCH longer.
I never said I did.
Notice, I said "a hairline joint seam gap that can be clamped closed after applying a solvent like Testors liquid or Plastic Welder, etc., to avoid a using a lot of putty, etc."
In case it is not obvious, this incorporates the usual "wicking-action method", as a gap no wider then a hairline would allow nothing much else.
The other problem with off-the-shelf liquid cements is that they can take so long to evaporate that they're still off-gassing after the paint is applied, and can stain the paint job from the inside out. This is also not an issue with MEK due to its quick evaporation.
I have never experienced this since I never paint a model before letting it sit overnight.
And this goes back to building Monogram's 1/48 B-17 when it was first released as well as per a scale model builder's magazine build/review article, using the recommended Liquid Cement at that time, incorporating the tedious "assemble, hold fuselage halves together, apply by wicking-action" technique.
So, lumping all liquid cements into one pile is a mistake because they are not 'all created equal'.
What I am referring to are the typical liquid cements the average consumer encounters at the model kit section at the local Hobby Lobby store (the Loctite products are two aisles over, same store), and I have bought them all, and they pretty much all behave alike, except for the non-toxic's tendency to take a little longer to dissolve/weld the plastic, and thus longer to set-up, the solvent types pretty much do all act the same.
I am not referring to the very toxic and much more dangerous MEK, which here can only be gotten from industrial/commercial suppliers, and then requires the responsible user to go through the process of learning to handle a potentially dangerous solvent.