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#91 Zero77

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 03:00 PM

I always find that tamiya flat acrylics are quite delicate and do not like to be manipulated. They scratch and chip so easily. In addition, they looks too flat for me.

However, i think adding about 50% of the same color, but in the glossy range, will seriously improve the strenght of the paint. They still are not as tough as gunze acrylics, but it's better than just tamiya flat paint out of the jar.

Some also add some future in it, it is know to improve the toughness, too.

 

And this way, they also look less flat, with a more satin look, which i find better and more realistic.

 

Hope you will get back to this build and make it getting back in the straight and narrow !


Following the big Photobucket rip-off attempt, all my pictures on the forum cannot display anymore. I try to reupload the RFI pictures, but i'm not sure i'd have enough time and energy to reupload the pictures of the WIP threads. If you're interested in a specific subject and want me to reupload some pictures, just let me know. :) 
 
Finished : F-16C Barak, F-4J VMF333, Czech Mig-19PM, Bell X-1, Russian Su-25 in Chechnya, Ta152H-1, Czech Avia S.199, Heinkel He162, Swiss AF Bf109G-6, Regia Aeronautica Bf109G-6, P-47D "Slick Chick", RFC Sopwith Pup, A5M2 Claude, Schneider Cup 1926 Macchi M.39, German F-104G JaboG34, Curtiss P-6E, Curtiss P-36A USAAC, Piper SuperCub floatplane (PA-18-150), Russian built Nieuport 11, Albatros D.Va Seefrontstaffel 1, Bf109G-12 (two-seater trainer), Texas ANG F-86D,  Post-war Hawker Tempest Mk.V, Bf109E-3, F-35A 34th FS


#92 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 09:40 PM

I just add a couple of drops of Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss to their flat paints for airbrushing, or more still if I want to go for a satin or gloss sheen. They spray and dry better than the straight flat versions, avoid the issue you get when you lay them down over gloss paint (dry lake bed!) and don't have that slightly chalky look they can sometimes get.

 

It's interesting that you say they're not as tough as Gunze; I find the Gunze gloss and semi-gloss acrylics to be some of the softest-curing paints I've ever used.

 

Kev



#93 Zero77

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Posted 09 May 2014 - 03:33 PM

 

It's interesting that you say they're not as tough as Gunze; I find the Gunze gloss and semi-gloss acrylics to be some of the softest-curing paints I've ever used.

 

Kev

 

Yes, very strange !

I've noticed it one more a few days ago, when i've painted a 109 spinner tamiya semi-gloss black. I then buffed it with micromesh and it wore off from almost every edge, and each of the very small scratch i tried to make was very exagereted. I wiped it off with alcool and redid it with gunze RLM70 and no problem at all.

I always thinned my tamiya and gunze with alcohol, maybe it is the difference?

I also always make very thin and almost instantly dried coats, maybe too thin for the tamiya acrylics?


Edited by Zero77, 09 May 2014 - 03:34 PM.

Following the big Photobucket rip-off attempt, all my pictures on the forum cannot display anymore. I try to reupload the RFI pictures, but i'm not sure i'd have enough time and energy to reupload the pictures of the WIP threads. If you're interested in a specific subject and want me to reupload some pictures, just let me know. :) 
 
Finished : F-16C Barak, F-4J VMF333, Czech Mig-19PM, Bell X-1, Russian Su-25 in Chechnya, Ta152H-1, Czech Avia S.199, Heinkel He162, Swiss AF Bf109G-6, Regia Aeronautica Bf109G-6, P-47D "Slick Chick", RFC Sopwith Pup, A5M2 Claude, Schneider Cup 1926 Macchi M.39, German F-104G JaboG34, Curtiss P-6E, Curtiss P-36A USAAC, Piper SuperCub floatplane (PA-18-150), Russian built Nieuport 11, Albatros D.Va Seefrontstaffel 1, Bf109G-12 (two-seater trainer), Texas ANG F-86D,  Post-war Hawker Tempest Mk.V, Bf109E-3, F-35A 34th FS





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