Tamiya A6M5 Zero
Posted 30 December 2008 - 03:08 AM
Anyway, here she is with my tragically ham-fisted pre-shading:
I've been experimenting with using airbrushed oil paints for pre-shading - in this case, Raw Umber. The mistake I made was to over-thin it, so it ran and splattered a bit. I will say though, that if you get the thinning ratio right, standard artist's oils airbrush as well as any other type of paint.
Here's the undersides painted with Tamiya XF-71:
I'm not entirely convinced by this colour, as it looks too close to RAF Sky to me, but it'll certainly do. Japanese WW2 colours are easily as vexed and contentious as their Luftwaffe counterparts.
Posted 30 December 2008 - 11:18 AM
Hope you had a great holidays with your family and that you can get some time to build.
Posted 30 December 2008 - 12:52 PM
Looking mighty fine Kev. I'm looking forward to seeing how the painting comes out. I wonder what made you try out thinned oils for your pre-shading? Did you use regular turps to thin the oils? Inquiring minds are dieing to know .
Hope you had a great holidays with your family and that you can get some time to build.
Good to hear from you mate. Hope you had a good Christmas.
I got the idea of using oil paints from Brian Criner's Osprey Modelling book on the Zero. He used Burnt Umber, but not having any I substituted Raw Umber instead. I think the main idea is the colour involved, rather than the medium, so I guess any similar colour in another medium should be just as effective. I thinned it using white spirits, which is the same mix I use for oil washes. And that was where my over-thinning came about - treating it like a wash mix instead of a standard paint mix for airbrushing.
I have to be honest though in saying that I'm really not sold on the whole pre-shading thing. I just can't seem to get it right. I think other modellers use the effect fantastically well, but I end up covering too much of it up trying to avoid a nasty patchwork effect. I just can't bring myself to leave all those prominent lines showing through the paint work! And then I'm left with no effect at all and wondering why I bothered. Light-coloured undersides aren't so much of a problem, but darker top surface colours are. I seem to have much more luck, and achieve better results, with with the standard repertoire of post-painting effects.
I guess I should bang together a few quick 1/48 scale models for the sake of practising various finishing and weathering techniques.
Posted 30 December 2008 - 11:13 PM
As you can see, the pre-shading doesn't show up at all, as I basically covered it over completely with the camo coat. I did however manage to achieve the deliberately patchy effect I was going for, though past experience tells me that this will even out considerably under subsequent gloss and flat coats. I'll be keeping this one fairly clean, so it's really just decals and fiddly bits from here.
Posted 30 December 2008 - 11:24 PM
It's almost impossible to get pre-shading to show through a dark color like that. Maybe if you had used black and really laid on the shading first, but even then...
Glad to see it nearing the finish line!
Posted 02 January 2009 - 03:35 PM
I've never been able to make a 'pre-shaded' effect work out very well, probably cause I usually really 'lay the paint on' too heavy over it. I sure can see the effect on your undersides great though. This paint job is really turning out well.
Cool that you're trying out some new techniques with the artists oils. I screwed up and went to the wrong rack and picked up acrylic artists 'oils' by mistake.(tubes look identical) Soo, I've been playing around with them for awhile now and really like them. Neat stuff.
Looks like you're heading for home on this build, and it won't be much longer now. Can't wait to see your next progress pics! Later, Russ
Posted 03 January 2009 - 05:15 AM
I've also painted the yellow leading edge and fitted the pitot tube. Here's a shot of the drop tank, where I thought the pre-shading worked out really well:
And the cowling:
You can't really tell from the photo, but the upper and lower halves actually came out two slightly different colours. It's quite pronounced in the flesh, but I'll probably leave it, and write it down as a field replacement part.
Next update should have stickers! Thanks for looking in guys.
Posted 04 January 2009 - 04:35 AM
Posted 04 January 2009 - 04:58 AM
She's looking nice and slick Kev. Well on your way to getting her done soon and what a gem she's turning out to be. Patchy paint and preshading are a bear to get just right. You work like the devil to get just the right contrast but not so much as to make it look cartoony and then everything gets washed out when you apply the gloss coat or the reverse when you shoot the final flat finish :angry: Looks like you're about spot on with your drop tank. I'm looking forward to seeing all the decals on and then how you apply the weathering.
I know what you mean Dan. You seem to achieve fantastic results with your builds, but I'm still searching for the right combination of techniques and approaches that will yield the result I'm after. As for this build, I'm probably not going to weather it much at all, but I'm a little way from thinking about it at the moment.
In other news, I've done some minor decalling and have dealt with a few of the fiddly bits. Ironically, in having a close look at the engine, I realised with a nasty shock that I'd fitted both mounting frame/ring thingies upside down! :angry: I was going to let it slide due to the difficulty of doing anything about it. However, I also realised that the side cooling flaps no longer lined up with the exhaust stacks, and the domino effect took over from there. I ended up prising off what I could, and cutting the rear frame in half so I could remove it. After some more butchering, I've got it all back together the right way up, and have certainly learned my lesson for next time! (That would be, RTFM, carefully!)
Posted 04 January 2009 - 11:30 AM
Keep up the great work.
Posted 07 January 2009 - 11:38 PM
However, not all went strictly to plan. After a couple of applications of Micro Sol (Super Sol actually), I still wasn't satisfied with the way the decals were settling into the surface detail, so I pulled out my bottle of Mr Mark Softer, as I'd heard it was really effective with the thick Tamiya decals. Here's the result:
This stuff is much thicker and more viscous than than Micro Sol, and tended to pool on the decal's surface, eventually scarring it. :angry: The damage is on both upper hinomarus and to a lesser extent on one of the fuselage ones. I could probably pull them off and scrounge replacements, or even paint them on, but I'm over it now. I've tried washing the marks off (no good, they're stains!), and also gently sanding them out, but to no avail. I'm hoping that subsequent weathering and clear coats will mitigate the effect and make it all look acceptable.
Anybody had better luck with Mr Mark Destroyer? Where did I go wrong?
I am really happy though with the way the upper hinomarus conformed to the elevator actuator fairings:
Ironically this was all Super Sol!
Hoping to get this all finished by the time I return to work on the 14th.
Posted 08 January 2009 - 02:34 PM
I would like to know what is wrong as well.
Zero still looks great though.
Posted 10 January 2009 - 04:20 AM
I've done a panel line wash, which is all but invisible on the upper surfaces:
Anybody got any advice on panel line washes for dark camo colours? It's looking OK underneath though:
However, a close inspection of the underwing Hinomarus will indicate that I didn't learn my lesson viz Mr Mark Softer. Ah well, at least I know it wasn't a one-off aberration. Never again!
The other frustration I suffered is the strange crazing of the floor polish gloss coat over the decals:
Thankfully the effect is magnified in the photo, but it's still noticeable on the model. As you can see, the effect is only over the decal! We don't have Future down under, so I use a product called 'Shine Magic', which though made by Johnsons, is not the same stuff as Future. It's cloudy in the bottle and contains a small amount of ammonia. I suspect it has reacted with the decal softeners I used (both Micro Sol and Mr Mark Destroyer in the end).
Oh, I also broke off the little spigot atop the starboard landing gear for rotating the gear leg up and down.
After holding much promise early on, I'm really getting fed up with this build now!
Posted 10 January 2009 - 08:20 AM
as far as the wash on the upper surfaces is concerned, here is my 2 cents opinion....
"Classis" brownish washes on dark green surfaces always tend to be barrely visible.
I would say that one option is to apply a black wash (or at least much darker).
An other option is to go for a much lighter wash (ie sand yellow or light earth) as this gives some interresting effects I think (I have in mind a couple of F4U corsairs finished with the grey/sand wash that looks sensationnal!).
What I would myself actually do is a mix:
- black around the engine area and where ever there might actually be some oil and such mixed with dust
- sand yellow or light earth everywhere else as this is supposed to be just dust and durts
Appart from that, it is a shame for the decals (ask why I hate decalling now!) but try to figure that out one way or an other as this great build or yours dicerve to be completed my friend!
Posted 10 January 2009 - 09:21 AM
But be of good cheer as they don't look that bad,( no really I'm not making it up.) and once the flat finish is on only you will know where all the bad spots are. I think the trick is, and I haven't learned it yet, is to let it go and focus on the overall build. Which is what everyone else sees.
I really like how the underside came out nice and subtle and the preshading worked well. As for the panel line wash for the upper surfaces could I suggest that you use a lighter coloured pencil to outline the panels after you hit it with a flat finish. Kinda like this on the Beaufighter.
I just used the tip of a light green colored Derwent Artist pencil to get the panels to pop out a bit. Truth be told I went too far but I think it give you an idea of how it works. I shot a final coat of Dullcoat over the pencil marks which knocked the effect back some and made them permanent but while your putting them on if you go too far you can just rub them out with you finger tips. Just an idea, hope it helps.
Good builds always struggle to be born keep at it she'll look great when she's finished.
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