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Tamiya 1/48 FW190-D9 "Brown 10"


titan8251

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Lovin' the work so far Andy!

 

This is for BC and Andy:

 

I looked back through my GB and found a post from a little over 4 years ago in the first few pages of the thread. Here's the first of two articles for you guys.

 

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Construction Tips from Eduard:

 

As a result of test-building several kits, Eduard has pointed out several areas requiring special attention during assembly. These include the following:

 

Check the position of the completed cockpit interior to the fuselage halves. Especially the back (upper) part of the cockpit tub must be aligned exactly with line on the fuselage halves. Also the weapon bay must be carefully positioned.

 

Another important point is the wing spar (part I16) installation. In this step (page 5 of the instructions), first glue part K20 into the wing, and then add part I16. This sequence will guarantee that the wing spar will be exactly vertical to the wing bottom. This is crucial for wheel well assembly and the whole wing geometry.

 

Another sensitive point is the engine mount installation. In this point, find the exact position of the part K18 on the reverse (inside of the fuselage) side of the part H12 (wheel well). K18 fits exactly to the notch in the H12. If you glue K18 carefully to the given position, the engine block will easily assume the correct position when it is glued to the engine mount.

 

The locating holes for the main wheels are quite large. This is because the wheel fits to the axle at an angle. Use the instruction picture (page 10) to determine the exact angle of the wheel to the undercarriage leg.

 

While we are talking about the undercarriage, when you will assembly the K7 (u/c leg) to the H1 (u/c cover), the location pins on the leg will give you exact position of the hatch (H1) to the leg. This is similar to the assembly of the u/c to the wing – glue the leg to the fine locating position in the wheel well, and immediately add J30/J37 to the position in the wheel well and on the u/c leg (there is a fine location pin on the leg which fits to the small hole on the end of the tow bar). It will give you exact position of the undercarriage to the wing. This is a different system compared to other manufacturers' kits, but it delivers surprisingly good result.

 

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Edited by mustang1989
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Here's the second one and this post came straight from one of the members named benzdoc (Mike) at FSM.

 

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Even though I'm not participating in this GB, I wanted to share my experiences with the Eduard 190 kits. I recently finished the A–8 model, and the fuselage / bulkhead / cockpit / wing fit was disastrous. In fact, I had shelved the model for a while out of disgust and depression about that. However, I've since started a D–9 (with a WIP post about it elsewhere), and had a lot better success in this area. Although everything forward of ammunition holders on the firewall is different, everything rearwards is the same.

 

There were two main errors I made:

 

A. Believing that the bulkhead parts are supposed to be 90° in relation to each other

 

B. Believing that the forward edges of the cockpit floor were good relative alignment points

 

So, on the first part, in the 190 D–9 manual, I found this:

 

8266362399_541c09181c_z.jpg

 

Why ever it wasn't included in the A–8 manual, I'll never know. But that made a huge different. OK, 3° isn't a large amount, but given the engineering of this kit, that made a huge difference in my case.

 

Secondly, as was pointed out on the ARC site some time ago by a fellow whose name I can't recall, it's important to focus on the fuselage sides and firewall alignment and let the cockpit float. Only cement it in place later.

 

In my case, these two things made a massive difference.

 

I hope this helps just a little bit.

 

Best regards,

 

Mike

 

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Andy: What is it about that shade of green that makes it look so dang cool? Paint work is looking good so far!! 

 

Phil: No problem at all bud. Start up that 190 thread dude!! I'll be all over that like a rat on a cheeto!!!   

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Looks great!  What paint are you using, and do you mind sharing your mixing formulas?

 

No problem.  I am using Gunze Aqueous RLM 76, 82, 75.  I just used the colors straight out of the bottle and faded them with lighter and darker shades of green, dark Gray and light gray and even some white to lighten up some of the panels.  hope this helps,

 

Andy

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