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Bf110G4 NJG4 1944/45 FINISHED!!!!! YIPPEE.


mozart

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'. . . the ribbed piping  . . '

Got a product package photo?

 

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Mark

Sorry Mark, I don't quite understand the question. As I said, the "piping" was part of a piece of cheap jewellery, a necklace or some such and I can't even remember whose or when! :)

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Sorry Mark, I don't quite understand the question. As I said, the "piping" was part of a piece of cheap jewellery, a necklace or some such and I can't even remember whose or when! :)

 

 

Im thinking Mark meant taking a picture of the package the piping came in. However, if it was a cheapie piece of jewelry I doubt that would be possible. 

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If found an innumerable selection of every conceivable size of spring, cable, wire, hose and clamps known to modeldom at Hiroboy Models

 

 

Also another great source of springs to simulate not only O2 hoses, but retainers and springs like the ones found on the seat backs of some P-51s are light bulbs. The old fashioned incandescent light bulb filaments are teeny tiny springs that work wonders for things like that. 

 

Just wrap one very lightly in a big paper towel, or other towel or rag you dont want/need and then tap it decently hard on something solid to break it without damaging the filament.   Or Ive just taken a piece of tile I had laying around and gently tapped the bulb against it while in the trash can the whole time so that the glass bulb parts just fell into the can, leaving the filament behind to be clipped out with sprue cutters. 

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Bill

 

Guitar strings are a good alternative. Multiple sizes, easy-ish to bend when annealed and they can be sanded if you want the flat look of the piece above.

 

Matt

 

Edit - very rude of me not to mention what a nice job you're doing Max :).

How stupid of me, of course. I play 6- and 12-string, so should have plenty of spares around. Thanks guys, I'm just getting dimmer and dummer.

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Engine's pretty much finished.  I've added a few pipe runs shown in the Hendon DB605 but not included in Aires kit, and I've checked that it will all fit with the bearers and the bulkhead - what a pain that would have been if not!   

 

tzPEPq.jpg

 

rHf00T.jpg
 
csoUp6.jpg
 
I'm impatient to get my Bf110E completed before I feel that I can really get stuck into the G4. 
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  • 4 weeks later...

At last I'm able to start a little more work with the G4 and having done the engine I thought I'd continue in that area with the exhaust/engine/nacelle/flamedamper fit.  I'm modelling Schnaufer's G9+EF which we know was kept in tiptop condition and fitted latterly with the straight Eberspacher dampers but this needs modification of the nacelle side panels:

 

agxBX9.jpg

 

A bit of evidence in this picture of the panel, though other types were fitted too:

 

ARwHS7.jpg

 

MmxJ4X.jpg


tuTXxk.jpg

 

I'm pondering the best way of adapting the kit panels; Dragon have done me no favours in supplying each in two parts, or possibly making a new panel from plastic card.  Ain't life difficult, and this is just the start!! :)

 

 

Edited by mozart
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Nice work Max, are you leaving the upper cowl off and just fitting the lower? If so its probably easier making new side panels rather than fiddling the Dragon parts to fit the resin I would think.

 

Regards. Andy

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2 minutes ago, monthebiff said:

Nice work Max, are you leaving the upper cowl off and just fitting the lower? If so its probably easier making new side panels rather than fiddling the Dragon parts to fit the resin I would think.

 

Regards. Andy

The upper cowl is staying off on one wing but not the other Andy.  I've decided to go with the three hole panel with a pair of exhaust going into each as shown in the last photo, so I reckon I'll just cut out a long slot then put in the two dividers from plasticard, keep it simple like me!!

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Chain-drilled out the first one and tidied up, 20 minutes work or so.  It's important on the exposed engine that the exhaust stubs are seen to mate accurately with the engine so I'll be cutting each exhaust stub off the casting "sprue" to seat them properly.  Once the position of the engine assembly is determined within the nacelle I'll be able to add the two thin dividers on the side panel.

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Off topic (as usual for me) I’m seeing the reflection of the prop blade and part (of the fuselage?) shining on the spinner, suggesting at least a slight gloss to the original paint? Opinions?

I know that the fighters were waxed to gain speed is this the case here too?

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Not off topic at all Chris, a very important observation!  Schnaufer did all he could to maximise the speed of his Bf110 being aware of the drag induced by the radar array on the nose of his ageing plane, so in his position as Kommodore of NJG1 he was able to have G9+EF kept as clean as possible.  The straight Eberspacher flame dampers were another streamlining ploy.  Another view of his G4 showing how clean it is:

 

qJWtL5.jpg

 

 

Edited by mozart
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