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Mr. Mark Softer


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#1 G-Man

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 12:37 PM

Just a heads up for those that don't know, as I didn't until now. Mr. Mark Softer will eat through Mr. Color paints. I was applying the decals on my 109 and had it tilted sideways. There was excess Softer that I didn't see, which rolled to the other side of the plane. Last night I noticed the paint was burned through, all the way to primer. The decals will not cover it, so I will have to touch it up with the airbrush very carefully. It's par for the course with this bird, as I've had to do several things two or three times.
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#2 modelingbob

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 03:40 PM

Mr Mark Softer will eat through any paint if it puddles up! It's one of the "hotter" decal solutions out there and that's why it works really well on thick decals! The secret is to apply it sparingly and dab up any "pooling" before it damages any thing. 


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#3 G-Man

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 03:47 PM

Mr Mark Softer will eat through any paint if it puddles up! It's one of the "hotter" decal solutions out there and that's why it works really well on thick decals! The secret is to apply it sparingly and dab up any "pooling" before it damages any thing.


I really like using it, I'll just have to be extra vigilant next time. I don't like how the brush holds an excessive amount of fluid in it. I may start using a paint brush so I can better control how much fluid gets soaked up.

ON THE BENCH: Trumpeter 1/32 Ju 87B-2

ON DECK: Hasegawa 1/32 Fw 190D-9

                   


#4 Peterpools

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 04:03 PM

Bob is 100% and Mr Softer will eat though any paint including lacquers if left to puddle or sit in one spot. I only use it when Set and Sol are ineffective and very carefully at that.

Peter


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#5 Bill Cross

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 05:37 PM

You guys are pussies. Mr. Mark Softer is the BEST and makes even a thick carpet lie down. :punk:


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#6 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 09:24 PM

I hate this stuff! It's ruined every decal I've ever applied it to.

 

Kev


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#7 LSP_Ray

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Posted 29 December 2017 - 07:00 AM

It is my understanding it is best for thicker Tamiya and Hasegawa decals. I have used it with no problems, but go with milder solutions first and work my way up.


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#8 SapperSix

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 05:06 AM

Solvaset!!!! :punk: :thumbsup:


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#9 Gazzas

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 08:31 AM

I find it works well, but a puddle will ruin a decal.  I've never had it react adversely to artist acrylic paints or Future.

 

Still takes a lot of time for it to affect those thick -a55 Hase and Tamiya decals.

 

Gaz


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#10 Jan_G

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 09:57 PM

I'm using Mr. Mark Softer NEO and Setter NEO for all decals and didn't have any problems with paint

I use it on a clear coat of Mr. Color GX100 Super Clear, which I let to dry for at least 24 hours before use of decals

however I'm trying to remove all excess Softer / Setter asap

jan


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#11 blackbetty

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 07:49 AM

I thin it with water and only use it straight with a really stubborn decal

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#12 Bill Cross

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 08:24 PM

Also make sure your paint is DRY!!!


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#13 Bob MDC

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 11:47 PM

Spot on Bill !!

I was GSI Creos (Gunze) distributor in the UK for over 10 years and the vast majority of problems customers had was due to paint which had not been completely DRY!!!


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#14 Bill Cross

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 06:16 PM

Bob, any problems I have had with these solutions is when rushing the application. It also sometimes helps to lay down a coating of some kind of clear before decaling.


Contributing Writer at Kitmaker Network (http://www.armorama.com) & Campaigns Administrator at Model Shipwrights

Getting ready for ArmorCon: Meng M1A2 SEP TUSK; "Band of Brothers Meets Dead Man's Corner"

Recently completed: Meng FT-17

Future projects: Tamiya F-4E Phantom II "Kurnass" in IDFAF Service ("Shelf of Doom"?)


#15 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 09:37 PM

For those of you who vouch for Mr. Mark Softer, how do you stop it beading up? That's all it ever does whenever I use it, and it doesn't seem to matter the provenance of the decals. I brush it on the decal, and it beads up. And then of course, if you leave it like that, it eats through the decal! Every. Time. I've been advised to apply it with a cotton bud instead of a brush, which helps a little, but the solution still has a tendency to bead after application, and this makes it completely unusable for me.

 

What's the secret?

 

Kev






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