Jump to content

Bf109K-4, I./KG (J)6, Bohemia, May 1945


Recommended Posts

Guest canuck63

Hi Mark,

that'll be called real modeling in my book ;) !Many amongst us,me for one,use tons of AM brass,resin and stuff to superdetail their models,but this kind of "creative" detailing is what I like most :) !I've done it myself many times and it's worlds more rewarding that merely hitting the Credit Card and go for that new detailing set!

Can't wait to see your beautiful Kurfürst finished :party0023: !

Cheers

Manny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Manny, Jereon,

Thank you very much for your compliments.

 

'He who must not be named' sent me a PM concerning the landing gear not having the flex hose.

I have done flex hoses in the past for 2 109's, not particularly to my liking, but done none the less,

and, since they are hidden behind the wheel and gear door I wasn't planning to include them in this build, but. . .

 

DSCN5039.jpg

I did them anyway.

 

DSCN5040.jpg

The single springs are springs that go in the cockpit. The antenna is for the G-14, which I'll also post over there.

The filament is invisible sewing machine thread I picked up at a fabric store. It comes on a spool.

It's meant to be the wire. I'll be painting that steel later on. I wrapped it around a drill bit then twisted

the 2 ends a couple of times real tight, then super glued and trimmed it.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've made a little progress on the wheel wells and worked on some bits and ideas in between.

 

DSCN5045.jpg

That's .005 plastic card with the layout drawn on. The condition appears to be a multiple part condition,

but rather than making the 2 parts I just scored the separation mark. It's not very noticeable here.

But, the score line is the left line in the center section, the one with the arcs.

 

DSCN5046.jpg

Opened up. The inside wall was a little short so I shimmed it and will make a new one.

Also, the lightening hole, I think, based on photographs, should be moved a little more toward the spar. In addition,

the hole doesn't match the lightening hole sizes of the outer wall, which I'm currently working on,

so it's just as well that I replace it. The little strips where the outer wall is located is double-sided

adhesive film, used to hold the part in place.

 

DSCN5047.jpg

The inside of the outlined area needs to be removed. I forgot to score it so I would know the outline

when I begin scraping and sanding. I'll score it later. The hole at 10:30+- is for the landing gear up/down indicator rod that will stick up

out of the wing top.

 

DSCN5044.jpg

I had the hairbrained idea in the middle of the night to maybe look into constructing the defroster

tubing attached to the canopy inside wall so I mixed up some Apoxy Sculpt because I couldn't find

my Milliput and made this. I'll fine tune it after it dries. I'll also worry about the armored headrest after, or if, I solve

the construction problem.

 

DSCN5043.jpg

I squished some .020 solder almost flat and made this. I rounded it with a paint brush handle and burnished it a little bit to get the kinks out.

I'll work on making a teardrop later. Boy, is that blurry. Sorry about that. I'll take and post another picture of it later.

 

DSCN5042.jpg

Last but not least. I've wanted to try my hand at this since the G-6 build but couldn't find a clear picture

of the fastening condition when I came across something feasable that is on an engine. So I drew a sketch and am giving it a shot. .020 rod, 5mm long aluminum.

I think the aluminum may be too long. Maybe 4mm will do. I'll make the G-14 drop tank with 4mm strip and compare.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest canuck63

Simply outstanding :clap2: !Be warned, Mr. Mark Buonarroti...we won't tolerate any mistakes or/and shortcuts on your David/Kurfurst at this point :goodjob: ....we don't want to see anything less but TOTAL COMMITMENT ;) !

The old salts amongst the LSP crowd sure have compared your great home-made superdetailing to the marvelous jobs the likes of Shep Paine treated us to many moons ago so please keep up the good job !I'm enjoying your build a great deal..hats off to you dude :bow: ....Russ is sure watching you from above with pride and enjoys this build as any other LSPer :popcorn: !

Cheers

Manny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you everyone. Your praise humbles me.

 

There's not much to report or show, but there is something. I've completed the new wall outlines for both wheel wells but have yet to put in the lightening holes, and started work on the roof of the other wheel well, sanding off the detail, making the .005 base, and outlining the wheel opening.

 

For show I have this:

 

DSCN5048.jpg

I've fine tuned the canopy mold. I'm waiting for it to dry before I do another test fitting.

 

DSCN5049.jpg

Here's a better picture of the loop antenna. Where'd that fuzz ball come from?

 

DSCN5050.jpg

This drop tank has 4mm metal strip. The sliver of a screw shaft needs to be adjusted.

 

DSCN5051.jpg

Comparing it to the G-14 tank with 5mm metal strip. The 4mm strip is a better proportion, so I'll remake the G-14 fastener.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Last one for the day. I've got errands and chores to do.

 

This bubbled up thru all of the other stuff I've been thinking about and seemed like a good idea.

 

DSCN5052.jpg

It should help me to stay between the lines when I start scraping and sanding.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark

 

Great work on the wells so far.

 

Just in case you're not aware, the shape you have there represents a hole which goes completely through the wing and is covered by the G-10/K-4 long streamlined bulge. Here's the wing from my 109K build which is stalled somewhere here....

 

IMG_3014.jpg

 

Hole is opened up and edges thinned to more accurately depict the thin wing skinning.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Big Matt-Glad I could help.

 

Matt,

I know the pain.

 

DSCN4839.jpg

I did the same for a G-6 build. I vac formed the bulges. Milliput infill, grey primer to smooth things out.

 

DSCN5062.jpg

A stalled G-4. Superglue smeared on the rudder. I used remover to remove the glue, which crazed the plastic.

I'll probably just mold and cast the rudder from another kit.

 

DSCN5063.jpg

Close-up of the G-4. The faint linework is the location of the bulge.

 

Your work does help. All contributions help, and most certainly I appreciate your contributions.

Thank you.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like your style of modeling buddy! Improve the kit parts instead of buying aftermarket.

You are doing such a good job on the drop tank that I thought that you might find this drawing useful. It is from a Japanese pub and I can't remember which one so I hope that they will forgive me. There is a little feature on the German drop tanks that most model companies miss. Notive the sway bar receptor on the tank have grooves in them. One set is at right angles to the other set. These receptors are also not flush with the surface but mounted with bolts on 2 discs that are welded to the tanks surface. I point this out because you seem to be interested in the details so please don't take this as a critisism.

 

 

 

 

 

002-17.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark,

The parts get better and better.. those tanks are awesome and the wheel wells will certainly look as good if not better then anything you can buy out of the box aftermarket..and besides its more fun( at least to me ) making as much of the models details as you can. I always learn more about the prototype in the process as well.

Keep it up, cant wait to see the wings all closed up.

All the best,

Paul

:rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you everyone.

 

Matt,

I didn't have a chance to finish my thought before SWMBO gave me the eye of doom and I had to leave with unfinished business here on the forum. But after performing this surgery on the G-6 & G-4 I wanted to try another route. But that brings me to this, and it occurred to me this moment: since what I am scratching is separate from the applied roofing, and there is space between the two parts, I need not stay within the lines to create the illusion of depth I need. All I need do is to maybe not violate the straight line plane (I'm not sure, I'll look into that), and simulate the curviture of the applied roof. Hmm. I think this might work. I'll check this out. Thanks for the epiphany Matt.

 

Jerry,

Firstly, no criticism is taken. Thank you for your offer.

After seeing the image of your generousity it occurred to me I have seen photos of this condition before in, I think, Hasegawa's book of the G-6, so Oh Yeahhhh. I remember that! Thank you. I had forgotten about that assymetric mounting condition with all that is running around in my brain. I took a look at the part and the condition looks do-able. Thank you.

 

Paul,

Thank you for your compliments. You are right, learning is simply the key. I find three-dimensional problem solving fun as well.

 

Once again everyone, thank you.

Sincerely,

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...