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F4U-1D Brooklyn Butcher VMF-512 USS Gilbert Island, July 1945


1to1scale

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Waiting patiently on hold until the wet transfers come in. In the mean time I managed to do a little chipping and scratching using a silver artist pencil, this is new for me, it definitely takes some technique and restraint. Luckily, you can erase mistakes with a wet thumb.

Edited by 1to1scale
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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, I'm a little behind.

 

But....I managed to put in a few late nights and got all the HGW wet transfers on it, so stencils and paint touch ups are finally done. I am desperately trying to get it done for Scalefest on Saturday. I think I can, tomorrow I can try to do final assembly, then clear flat coat, and finally weathering and antennas. This will be a close one. Sorry, no time to take pics, but maybe I'll take a few tomorrow.

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I know the feeling!  SOOOOOOO close to being finished a date for a show.........................but we all know what can happen when we rush. Just make sure it turns out the way you want in the end, not just so its ready for the show.

 

Looking forward to seeing it! 

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Pictures as promised.

 

Overview shot, there are only 4 decals on this whole aircraft, the two "Brooklyn Butcher" on the nose (excellent quality from Montex!) and the two test placards under the wing (Tamiya, boo, hiss!). I spent some time getting the chipping just as I envisioned it, re-touching some spots, then using a silver pencil for small scratches.

 

As I said before the Tamiya decals are shite! They should be thrown in the trash as soon as you get them. I painted the large marking using masks, while I used the Montex masks for the first paint job, the unfortunate part was that I didnt make any effort to save the masks when I removed them. The repaint required me to raid my stash, I found the insignia in a Maketar P-47 set I had and I used the leftovers from the Montex set, along with Tamiya tape for some of the markings. The end result of repaint turned out better the second time around.

 

For the stencils, a test using the Tamiya decals on the bottom wing looked like plates bolted to the wing, not decals. I was unable to find a Corsair decal sheet, but found the the HGW wet transfers, which had stencils for all three versions in black and white. The nice thing about the HGW set is that they include a full set of cockpit decals like Barracudacal, and you can actually use it to build both a Birdcage and a -1A or -1D (possibly all three if you used all black for A and all white for the D). I have read all the horror stories about the stencils not sticking, that is simply not true, they work fine if you follow their instructions EXACTLY. 

 

1. Use Mr Mark Softer...no exceptions. You are not using this like normal set/sol solutions. In this case, you apply to the paint, set the transfer on it, blot out excess, then leave it alone. this is literally melting the transfer off the film and into the paint. Use the right product in the right way...as the instructions say.

 

2. No matter how dry it looks, and how tempted you are, let it dry at least 8 hours before peeling the film off. All the moisture underneath needs to dry and evaporate, the longer it sets, the better and easier it is to pull off. I found waiting 24 hours made it easier to pull off. also, glossier surfaces peel off better. Be prepared to curse and get frustrated, the film is a bugger to get a corner started, but once you do, it will peel off. It does leave a glossy spot, but you will need to coat with a clear when done. So, wait at least 8 hours...as the instructions say.

 

3. I learned the hard way, if you use chipping fluid under your paint, it can reactivate, but if you set the transfer down and dont move it, it will allow you to remove the film and leave the paint behind. I should have clear coated before I put the transfers on. I tried to avoid this step because the surface seemed smooth enough, but the issue was that Mr Mark Softer was eating the Tamiya paint, turning it soft too! My takeaway, definitely clear gloss before applying transfers...as the instructions say. 

 

I made an effort to really "think" about wear patterns and stencil placement and wearing/covering with paint. Some stencils are almost all worn off, while others are like new.  

vbadwfM.jpg

 

Underside.

HgCws0l.jpg

 

The "money" shot! 

qNucLfe.jpg

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With Scalefest 2 days away, i had to make a risky decision last night, do I use my normal Arcylic matte clear, or do I take a chance and use an unknown (to me) quick solution?

 

1.   If I used my favorite Vallejo matte clear, I know there is a dry time before I can start weathering, which meant I would not be able to do washes and oils until the night before Scalefest. With this option, I had zero room for any error or goofs. 

 

2.   I had an unopened can of Tamiya TS-80 lacquer. I have never used this before, I had used Testors dullcoat with the end result being a milky coat and silvered decals, and I used MR Color matte clear on some sci-fi models. my results with spray cans were always mixed.

 

With time running out, I went home for lunch today and bomber the ol' Corsair in TS-80. this could have gone either way, and I have four other models to take to Scalefest on Saturday. I am happy to report, the results were beautiful! I could not have been more pleased! Perfect! I will definitely add a few more cans of TS-80 to my stash for future projects.

 

So, tonight when I get home, I will give her a nice coat Flory "concrete" wash and start weathering.  

 

What I need to accomplish before Saturday morning:

1. Panel line wash, fading, streaking, chips, and fuel stains.

2. Paint Tamiya in-flight stand.

3. install antennas, wingtip lights, pilot HUD, bombs, rockets

4. Last of the tiny breakable details and PE.

5. glue down canopy pieces.

 

I see a couple long nights ahead of me.

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This does look great!   I know I did the same with my Fokker D V.II for the Nationals last year. I did get it finished in time, but kinda regretted rushing a bit.    If you can finish without rushing too much do it!   

 

But if you start to rush too much, just make sure you take time and slow down. I know I made a couple compromises I didn't necessarily want to make to get it done. Heres hoping you can get it all under the gun!

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Looks good! I'm surprised the ts-80 didn't interact negatively with the base color, that clear stuff is pretty hot. I also like the GSB mix, I may have to borrow that on my Corsair too. As for the last minute details and cram session before a show, nothing is more awesome than looking at a model on a contest table and smelling the paint or clear coat still out-gassing!

Edited by The Dude
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Congrats, Mark! An excellent outcome for an excellent model.

 

I promise to take better pictures and post an RFI soon.

 

Just be sure to post them here, rather than in the RFI forum. Finished GB entrants go in their own gallery, and the photos are generally uploaded by a mod directly to the server for posterity.

 

Kev

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Really nice work! I've been shy of this build since mine stalled at the 85% mark, I needed to take a break, and I didn't want to get the itch just yet. Yet yours is immaculate. Great job!

 

Cheers, Tom

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  • 3 weeks later...

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