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Aerotech Macchi M.39


Zero77

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What a beautiful looking airplane.  Those floatplane racers were just jaw-dropping.

 

 

I would agree with using Italian Red for the red coat. It should be closer to Alfa Romeo Red, which was normally considered the correct Italian national racing color of the era.  

 

 

 

Can't wait to see more.

 

 

 

Matt  :frantic:

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Thanks guys, merci Richard !

 

You must be right, Matt. I've ordered a new spraycan of TS8. It should match better the rosso corsa color. As soon as i receive it, i do the paint job, almost everything is ready (i just had a few rescribing to do around the windscreen).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

 

I've repainted the floats with TS-8 spraycan, which is in my opinion much more accurate for 30's italian racers.

Here is how i attached the floats to paint the sides and lower area, because i was not able to make the floats standing with the triangular struts :

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However, on the fuselage, especially on the tail planes, i had a strange phenomenon. There was a "warp zone" on a specific spot where the paint from the spraycan behave very strangely. After curing, it made a recessed area, and it was a problem. I tried several times (and between each try, i sanded it even and smooth), with a light mist, or with a thick coat, but there was nothing to do, i still had the same result. So i solved the problem spraying the pink primer and the red paint with my airbrush and it was ok.

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Painted :

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And then, i was thinking about the rigging, and i remember that i've read something about some misplaced holes.... Oups !

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Damn ! I've forgot to do that before painting !!!!! Arrrg !!!!

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Ok, dont panic. Let's correct this mistake. I've used talc + CA, + a bit of mr surfacer, then sanding all of this smooth, and then a touch up with the airbrush.

 

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For quick airbrushed touch up, i found that directly spraying from the spraycan into the airbrush jar works fine :

20150129_003459_zpsa7e0ca7c.jpg

 

:)

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Then begin the problems for me.... the huge wing mounted water radiators.

 

I've made a huge mistake.... First i found them pretty stiff, a bit too much to be conformed on the wing profile easily. So i had the very bad idea to anneal it.... Huge mistake ! The parts are quite large and instead possibly with a oven, it is impossible to heat it homogenously. And so after it is totally deformed.... Ok, that's not the worst problem ever, but next time, i know that i wont try that again.... I'd better make them to shape on the unpaint and unglued wings, but i dont want to anneal them again.

 

First i tried to glue the first radiator with gator's grip, but it was not good for me. Too long to cure, impossible to wipe the excess because of the clamps, and impossible to remove the clamps, even for a few seconds because if so, everything was moving.

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So i washed everything and went for CA glue. I think it is the good method, but i had a few collaterals.... Excess CA glue coming from under the PE.... So i had to cut it when cured, then sand clean and smooth, prim and paint it again. It was a bit bothering, but the result is correct.

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20150131_210637_zpsecd793f9.jpg

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And here is where i am :

20150201_012642_zps424bef17.jpg
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I think i can see the end of the tunnel !

 

 

 

 

The PE radiators are not unpainted brass. I've repainted them with the same alclad pale gold + pale burnt metal mix to match the oil radiator color, and also to give them a more "patchy" aspect.

Edited by Zero77
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Fantastic work Nicolas! I'm surprised that the annealing went wrong, as I rely on that step when dealing with photo-etched parts that need any kind of forming. Still, you've recovered brilliantly, and it looks amazing.

 

Kev

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Thanks !

 

Kev, actually the annealing went wrong because of the thin thickness and large surface of the part. When i heated it with the blowtorch, the heating was not homogeneous at all, as the heat was pointing only to one point at a time, and it caused tensions and deformations because of the irregular metal expension.

 

But for the smaller part of the wing radiators (the outer part, outside of the rigging point), it was ok without any problem.

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When i heated it with the blowtorch [...]

 

Ah, that right there sounds like your problem! I only ever use a candle, and keep the fret moving over it constantly. Takes a bit longer to have an effect, but it's much more difficult to cause any deformations.

 

Kev

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Thanks guys !

 

Yes it's a fight, but at the same time i'm collecting informations and skills for the next ones : M52, M72, and even the british ones....

It's a quite simple kit, with a very few parts, but i've learnt a lot about large resin parts, spraycan painting, gloss paint, gluing on unusual materials, large PE and so on...

 

I still have to learn how to highlight panels on glossy finish, and that's the next step ! :)

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