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Mission Models paint


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#1 Bstarr3

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 04:12 AM

In light of the thread below about MRP, I noticed that there's very little discussion about another fairly new product, Mission Models paint. I wondered what people's general thoughts are about it? I have used them and liked them a lot. I've also used MRP, and while I think they do probably spray more easily right out of the bottle, the fumes a re pretty significant compared to Mission. Just mostly wanted to get some more discussion going about another product.
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#2 Guest_Smitty44_*

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 04:16 AM

In light of the thread below about MRP, I noticed that there's very little discussion about another fairly new product, Mission Models paint. I wondered what people's general thoughts are about it? I have used them and liked them a lot. I've also used MRP, and while I think they do probably spray more easily right out of the bottle, the fumes a re pretty significant compared to Mission. Just mostly wanted to get some more discussion going about another product.

 

I weighed giving these a shot being a mostly acrylic guy, however was apprehensive because they don't have quite a wide enough spectrum of colors for my taste as of yet. I opted for MRP/


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#3 JMason5067

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 04:54 AM

I have just ran my first few paint cups of Mission Models Paint through my Xtreme Patriot, and I must say for acrylic it is amazing. I ran ten drops paint, two drops thinner, and one drop of their poly additive, and had no problems sprayed well with even a couple intentional wet spots, dried quickly, and didn't run..Much easier to run than Vallejo. I will begin replacing my large pile of Vallejo with MMP.

 

            My $.02

 

                  John


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#4 Dave Williams

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 05:14 AM

I like them. I used their US Interior green for my Mustang cockpit. No problems using them, and they have a great FAQ.

https://www.missionm...-and-tricks-faq

I used the poly as recommended, and the finish was pretty smooth. Also tried their gloss as an overcoat prior to using some washes, and it sprayed equally well. Like a lot of the modern acrylics, they seem best sprayed at low pressure and in a couple of thin coats instead of trying to cover all in one shot. I’ll probably use them over my Ammo MiG and AK paints, when possible, as they seem to dry a lot quicker. One thing I recommend is making sure they are well shaken (the bottles come with a mixing ball inside) to make sure all of the pigments are mixed to get the color to where it’s supposed to be. Haven’t used enough colors yet to have an opinion about the color accuracy.

Plan to keep using them on my Revell P-51 build, so I’ll be able to gain more experience as it progresses.

#5 wunwinglow

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 08:54 PM

Bruce Crosby swears by them. I'll get him to post his experiences with them. I am looking forward to seeing a few more RAF colours though!

My Father told me two things would happen as I got older.
I can't remember either of them....

 

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#6 Bruce_Crosby

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 11:00 PM

Hi Guys,

Looks like Wunwinglow has volunteered me again! I’ve actually done some words about MMP in Tips and Techniques on a page about Vallejo Paints and their tip drying problems, but anyway, here’s the gist of it.

I’ve been playing with airbrushes for years but 2017 I decided to retire and make models. I bought a whole load of airbrushes (more than fingers and thumbs on both hands, so a lot) and a variety of paint brands. Badger Krome, Gunze PS-770, a couple of Olympos Custom Microns and their SP-B, some Chinese Clones, plus my existing Iwata HP-B, H&S Evolution and Infinity and some Testors Azteks plus my original model Kodak Aztek.

Thru that little lot I’ve blown Vallejo, Tamiya, Gunze Aqueous and Lacquer, Mr Paint, Hataka and now MMP.

First off colour accuracy: No such thing! Scale appearance, weathering, all blow that out of the water straight away. The colour swatches available don’t agree with each other, colour photographs are subject to variables such as film type, exposure, white balance, developing and that’s before you start scanning and printing in a book. Most WWII photos are black and white so they are literally anyone’s guess. Artwork in books and magazines can’t agree either. When someone rabbits on about accurate colour I just have to laugh. There’s hardly anyone alive who’s seen Luftwaffe aircraft in their original colours, it’s all second hand news.

Secondly MMP’s colours don’t agree with everyone else’s colours, especially the Luftwaffe ones. For instance the colours from MRP and Gunze are very similar, even smell the same (they smell NASTY) but MMP are more muted. You could say they look faded. One thing to note is the colour changes. It looks like one colour in the bottle. Spray it and it looks different. Let it dry and the colour changes again. Left it dry longer, say overnight and it can change again, usually gaining depth and colour intensity. You start off thinking “that colour’s not right” then a few hours later it’s “wow!”

Spraying MMP is quite an experience the first time, none of that “whack in some thinner until it’s like milk” stuff, it’s much more controlled. The pigment is VERY fine and doesn’t need much thinning. MMP recommend 10 drops of paint, a couple of the thinner and a couple of the special additive which is pure urethane to give final hardness. Stir it up in a cup, NOT in the airbrush, then pour into the airbrush cup. The paint is smooth, levels beautifully and leaves a fine, eggshell surface. I’ll be very surprised if you get the airbrush tip to dry up in less than ten minutes, not the couple of minutes you get with Vallejo, that’s is if it dries at all. I’ve been spraying up in my room, gone downstairs, made and drunk a cup of coffee then gone back and carried on spraying. It it very forgiving.

Due to the huge pigment size in most acrylics they shouldn’t really be put thru a nozzle less than 0.3. MMP will go readily thru much smaller like the Infinity 0.15. I've put it thru the 0.18 on the Gunze PS-770 easily. My best atomising airbrushes are the Olympos trio in my arsenal and they can run with MMP all day long. However I tend to use them for detail work only. My every day airbrush is the Badger Krome, an honest-to-goodness robust, well balanced, easy to use airbrush that the MMP paint was made for, or it sure feels like it.

Edit: Forgot to say originally that I took all of the paints above and put them on a grid on plastic card to compare the surface finish. Tamiya looked like sandpaper, immense difficulty with Hataka even getting it to spray, the lacquers went on easy and smooth, Vallejo looked good but spluttered, MMP easily the best finish of the Acrylics. All with the recommended Thinners and pressure setting found online on manufacturers pages. All shot with a Badger Krome as I was actually testing it, not the paint, at the time! End of edit.

Recently they added more colours, one of them being a pre-thinned gloss black for their new Chrome paint. I haven’t tried the Chrome but the gloss black is superb. Dead smooth, high gloss. A few mist coats to let it bite then a wet coat. Easy and fuss free.

So do I like MMP? Put it this way, I gave away my quite considerable collection of Vallejo paints. I’d tried Thinners, retarder, flow improver, you name it, I tried it. Didn’t make much difference, still dried up. MMP worked the very first time I used it and every time since then. I still use Gunze, both kinds, and will continue to use it because it’s got great colours and I can make it work. I still have some MRP but I won’t be replacing my stock as it runs down. It’s good paint but it really is a hazard to health. One of my investments besides the airbrushes was a new heavy duty dual head, high output air compressor and a proper extract system rather than the cheap Chinese plastic extractor. With the extract running I can’t smell MMP at all, not a whiff.

So Tim says I swear by them. I wouldn’t go that far! But they are very good. Stick with their rules on mixing, be precise with the mix, it works every time. It becomes second nature and now I can look at a model and guesstimate how many drops I’ll need of a colour. The average model of a 1/32 WWII fighter will take 40 drops for the upper surface and 20-30 for the undersides. The bottles seem expensive but they are quite large and once you get the drop system to work for you it goes a long long way.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Bruce Crosby

Edited by Bruce_Crosby, 21 January 2018 - 09:41 AM.

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#7 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 01:12 AM

Great post, Bruce! Very helpful.

 

Kev



#8 scvrobeson

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 01:17 AM

Plus, their bottle design is really great for measuring precise amounts of paint, and not really a risk of spillage

 

 

 

 

Matt 



#9 BloorwestSiR

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 12:27 PM

Very helpful post Bruce. I tried them once but ran into some issues which your post has cleared up so I'll give them another try.

Carl

#10 Bruce_Crosby

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 12:43 PM

Hey Carl,

The thing about MMP is it can’t be treated like any other paint. Find their guide online and stick to it because it really works. Only use their thinner. It’s not cheap but you only need a few drops so it goes a very long way. And definitely use the additive.

Always mix up outside the airbrush, in a plastic cup. Use a wood coffee stirrer or the lovely metal stirrers from Tamiya. Don’t use an electric stirrer as it adds too much air. I’ve seen people on YouTube stuffing all the ingredients into the airbrush cup and mixing by blowing back. DON’T DO IT !!! Introducing air makes the paint go off very quickly! BELIEVE ME ON THIS!

They have really thought out how to get the best from the product and very quickly it becomes second nature. Stick to MMP’s rules and you take out the unpredictability you get with other brands, you take out the annoying tip drying, you get a good finish every time.

Let me know how you get on with it.

Regards,

Bruce Crosby
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#11 Eagle Driver

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 01:07 PM

I can answer with this: 


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#12 BloorwestSiR

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 04:07 PM

Hey Carl,

The thing about MMP is it can’t be treated like any other paint. Find their guide online and stick to it because it really works. Only use their thinner. It’s not cheap but you only need a few drops so it goes a very long way. And definitely use the additive.

Always mix up outside the airbrush, in a plastic cup. Use a wood coffee stirrer or the lovely metal stirrers from Tamiya. Don’t use an electric stirrer as it adds too much air. I’ve seen people on YouTube stuffing all the ingredients into the airbrush cup and mixing by blowing back. DON’T DO IT !!! Introducing air makes the paint go off very quickly! BELIEVE ME ON THIS!

They have really thought out how to get the best from the product and very quickly it becomes second nature. Stick to MMP’s rules and you take out the unpredictability you get with other brands, you take out the annoying tip drying, you get a good finish every time.

Let me know how you get on with it.

Regards,

Bruce Crosby


I think I did everything you're not supposed to. I at least used their thinner and poly additive.

I'll let you know how I make out the next time I try them.

Carl




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