denders Posted December 8, 2023 Posted December 8, 2023 For those who are printing, any ideas? These are the engine cylinders for the Ki-100 model that I'm working on. I have plenty of good cylinders for building, so that's not the problem. I have an Anycubic Mono X 6K resin printer. I'm using standard Anycubic Basic Grey resin. And the standard settings listed for that resin. Lychee slicer program. The red circles are highlighting what I'm thinking is one of the layers that prints, but it doesn't stick to the layer above when the build plate lifts and then floats around when resin flows back into the void. I've been slowly increasing the exposure time (2.2 to 2.3 to 2.4 seconds) I'm also wondering if there's some issue with the spacing/thickness of the cooling fins being close to the 0.05mm layer thickness. The other strange thing is that there are two groups of these on the build plate. The one group has the problem, the other group is just fine. And I've re-zeroed the build plate several times. I've also posted this on the Anycubic FB group to see if someone may have seen something like this. And of course, the only response so far is someone who tells me that the standard settings work fine with a different brand of resin. Thanks BiggTim 1
BiggTim Posted December 8, 2023 Posted December 8, 2023 I think you are on the right track, Dave. It does look like a layer/wafer of resin from the bottom of the cylinder head that goes rogue for some reason. I'd suggest bumping your layer thickness up to .1mm, or down to .03mm and try it. If it goes away, then your suspicion of a conflict between the fin thickness and the layer thickness might be right on. You might also try more supports on the bottom of the cylinder head, and/or making the contact depth of the supports under it deeper, so it penetrates into the part further. It also kind of reminds me of what you can get it if you have a failed print, and forget to clean the vat really well before you print again. The little bits left behind can adhere to your new print and do odd stuff. Hope that helps. Tim Out2gtcha 1
denders Posted December 9, 2023 Author Posted December 9, 2023 Thanks Tim. I was thinking too, I guess it's a result of my insisting on printing the cylinder heads sitting vertical and not on an angle too. I was afraid if they were on an angle the fins possibly wouldn't be very visible. More to learn. I just experienced changing the FEP too. I'm glad I had ordered some replacements a while back so I had them. Trying to beat Murphy. LSP_Kevin and BiggTim 2
Out2gtcha Posted December 9, 2023 Posted December 9, 2023 Id guess you and Tim are both on the right path. I've also experienced similar issues when the release film is damaged or has stretch marks in it from a possible earlier failed print. Along with Tim's suggestions, I also might try re-orienting/rearranging the parts in the print bed itself and see if that effects the wayward print layer. BiggTim 1
denders Posted December 9, 2023 Author Posted December 9, 2023 That is one of the things about it. I had 14 cylinders grouped in one area of the build plate and another set located on the other side of the build plate. One set was okay and the other set was doing the above. BiggTim and Out2gtcha 2
Out2gtcha Posted December 9, 2023 Posted December 9, 2023 Yep, I've experienced the same. I might try a different area of the print bed then or even rearranging the way the cylinders sit. BiggTim 1
BiggTim Posted December 9, 2023 Posted December 9, 2023 You're dead on, Dave. All those ideas are exactly the process I would go through, especially angling the print. Out2gtcha 1
Ebf2K Posted December 12, 2023 Posted December 12, 2023 You can also play with your lift speed and delay settings. BiggTim 1
denders Posted December 12, 2023 Author Posted December 12, 2023 Well, FWIW, I was using Lychee slicer. I created another file with angled cylinder heads and using a downloaded resin file from the Lychee database for the particular resin that I have and set the exposure time to 2 seconds which is what is noted on the bottle and the Anycubic web site. What a mess! I had loose layer wafers all over the place from every part on the build plate. There was stuff stuck to the FEP too. So.... I decided to just use the Anycubic Proton slicer to create a file. All the parts look good! I should probably adjust the exposure time for the bottom layers to make it easier too get the parts off the build plate. And I'll have to compare the settings in Lychee to these settings and perhaps try that again. BiggTim 1
BiggTim Posted December 12, 2023 Posted December 12, 2023 To be honest, I LOVE Lychee for setting up supports and getting them ready, but I always export to an STL and then open it in the Anycubic software to arrange the objects and slice it. I don't know why, but I have better luck that way. Tim Out2gtcha 1
denders Posted December 12, 2023 Author Posted December 12, 2023 Hmmm, interesting, Tim. That sort of thing never crossed my mind. I'll have to check it out. Thanks! BiggTim 1
Out2gtcha Posted December 13, 2023 Posted December 13, 2023 3 hours ago, BiggTim said: To be honest, I LOVE Lychee for setting up supports and getting them ready, but I always export to an STL and then open it in the Anycubic software to arrange the objects and slice it. I don't know why, but I have better luck that way. Tim I can't seem the use remote print when I use Lychee to slice, and have to put the file on my USB drive. When I slice things in the AC software, I can choose my printer via the cloud and don't have to mess with copying it to the USB drive. I too like Lychee for supports, so will have to try supports in Lychee, and saving it to slice and print in Photon Workshop. BiggTim 1
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