FFA [Film free] decals . how to use?

[CRAZY IVAN5]

As per the title, how do you use the new FFa [film free?] type decals ? I've never used them before so I figured I'd ask the experts [yous guys]

[Zola25]

@CRAZY IVAN5 Just cut out the decal (the entire sheet is likely covered in film) and apply as normal. After 24 hours you can peel off the film (gently).

 

You can use decal softeners to make the decals conform but there is some debate on how "hot" the softener can be to not ruin the decal.

I have not personally had any issues using micro sol but that may not be transferrable to all decal brands so do a test application first.

 

 

/Niels

Edited November 27, 2023 by Zola25

[CRAZY IVAN5]

What I'd like to know too ,is what is the advantage [if any] that the FFA type decals offer? Thankyou Zola for the advice/ info! I just knew that there would someone on here that knows the straight skinny on 'em which is why I asked. 

[thierry laurent]

6 minutes ago, CRAZY IVAN5 said:

What I'd like to know too ,is what is the advantage [if any] that the FFA type decals offer? Thankyou Zola for the advice/ info! I just knew that there would someone on here that knows the straight skinny on 'em which is why I asked. 

Thinner decals and no silvering!

[Zola25]

5 minutes ago, CRAZY IVAN5 said:

What I'd like to know too ,is what is the advantage [if any] that the FFA type decals offer? Thankyou Zola for the advice/ info! I just knew that there would someone on here that knows the straight skinny on 'em which is why I asked. 

The biggest advantage is that there is no risk of "silvering" since you remove the film. They are also quite a bit thinner than traditional decals

 

No matter how successful you are integrating a traditional decal on a surface, if you look close enough you can still see the film. That is not the case with these.

 

/Niels

[CRAZY IVAN5]

2 minutes ago, thierry laurent said:

Thinner decals and no silvering!

Well, then that's a plus! I'm going to have to give them a try. I heard horror stories about the Eduard decals so I'm asking stupid questions . You'll have to humor me. 

[CRAZY IVAN5]

Now ,when you cut the image from the main sheet ,do you have to cut them out close to the image? Told ya there'd be silly questions.

[thierry laurent]

2 minutes ago, CRAZY IVAN5 said:

Well, then that's a plus! I'm going to have to give them a try. I heard horror stories about the Eduard decals so I'm asking stupid questions . You'll have to humor me. 

Well I should have specified "no silvering" in correct use situation (gloss surface)!

[Zola25]

4 minutes ago, CRAZY IVAN5 said:

Now ,when you cut the image from the main sheet ,do you have to cut them out close to the image? Told ya there'd be silly questions.

No - but less film to remove afterwards. I always cut pretty close to the image

 

[CRAZY IVAN5]

8 minutes ago, thierry laurent said:

Well I should have specified "no silvering" in correct use situation (gloss surface)!

Gotcha! I always gloss coat before decaling so carry on as normal then, cool! 

[CRAZY IVAN5]

Well, I just took the plunge and got a 1/32 sheet by UP Rise for an F-8E [ my third] to do a Marine bird. I was looking for some older Victory sheets but they're about as rare as hen's teeth. So after talking with you guys I said what the hell  give it a go.

[CRAZY IVAN5]

I'd like to thank both of you Thierry Laurent and Zola 25 for all your help and advice on this subject! It's most appreciated.

[UpRise]

The FFA technology works to 146% if you follow the guide from UpRise Decal Serbia.

The guide is here https://uprise-decal.com/ffaeng

1. Paint your model with gloss paint (highly recommended) or cover your model by gloss clear and make sure that the decal is FFA-compatible. THE MODEL SURFACE MUST BE TOTALLY SMOOTH AND GLOSSY! The decals have FFA logo or covered by safety paper. Be carefully with the FFA-decal and store it with the paper only.

2. THE MODEL SURFACE MUST BE TOTALLY SMOOTH AND GLOSSY! The entire sheet is covered by clear film. Cut an element and use it as a common decal. Put some water on model surface before transfer an element. Shift the element to model surface, pay max attention to smooth out it with wet cotton stick. No a bit of air bubles under the decal! The FFA technology works so good only with water, without any special liquids. But it possible to use soft (but not burnt!) liquids like Revell Softener or Mr. Mark Setter  etc.* Place it on the model and over the decals with much quantity.
We HIGHLY recommend Mr. Mark Setter. It contains a glue that allow to forgive the mistakes.


*Check your liquid before using not needed elements like a logo or the set name/item number as example. The liquid must be make flexible decal only but not burnt it to model surface.

3. THE MODEL SURFACE MUST BE TOTALLY SMOOTH AND GLOSSY! The best result for removing the film is during 2-4 hours after the element has been transferred. It possible to remove the film after the period but smallest elements may be damaged.  Pick up edge of the film by a small nail or modeller's knife. Remove the film gently and cover the model by a clear varnish.


THE MODEL SURFACE MUST BE TOTALLY SMOOTH AND GLOSSY! If you met a trouble: check the video with paper scotch method that works absolutely.

IMPORTANT!
No a peace of a miracle in FFA technology - if works everytime if the surface is smooth and gloss. BUT! To smooth out the decal on the model surface is SO VERY IMPORTANT STAGE. Spent several minutes to smooth out. Remove all air and water under the decal.
It's example of insufficiently smooth out the decal. The paint was removed with film.

The same model, the same surface, the same modeller. Around 10 minutes of smooth out the decal. No a special liquids.

[nmayhew]

Just to add I have one of Uprise’s Bf109 sets and the decals look excellent

 

The above ‘how to’ will no doubt be helpful to people, but I am not of the ‘must gloss before decals’ school - at least not for precluding ‘silvering’; neutral acrylic clears like Aquagloss can be helpful in preventing discolouration / changes in hue when setting solutions are applied to the paints I use (MRP lacquer). But that’s for another thread!

 

I hope Uprise continue their 1/32 releases.

 

kind regards 

Nick