A-20G Havoc Workarounds Now with Chuck in the Pilot’s Seat

[Uncarina]

I love HK Models for their subject choices, daring innovative designs (one piece fuselage, one piece wings for example), response to feedback, and overall great fit. Their Havoc is no exception, and the surface detail has to be seen to be believed. I am working on multiple subjects already, but I was immediately drawn to the kit.

 

You can build a wonderful kit out of the box. But I tend to be drawn to modeling challenges, and with this kit I identified three (well, one has nothing to do with the kit design really):

1) strengthening the nose gear;

2) moving the instrument panel closer to the pilot's seat so it can be more visible and aligned with period photos;

3) postdating the aircraft to later than Block 30.

 

After trial and mainly error I've managed to address these.

 

In reverse order, I will share the postdating project first. The most obvious difference between the A-20G post Block 30 and earlier Blocks is that the engine exhausts are not routed to the cowling flaps but emerge individually from around the cowling:

 

Block 30 and earlier, as depicted by the kit:

 

Post Block 30:

 

And my version:

 

 

To do this I used the kit exhaust fairings, sliced off the cowling flaps and trimmed to size. I then replicated the cowling flaps with styrene sheet.

 

To be continued!

 

Cheers,  Tom

 

 

 

Edited June 16 by Uncarina

[monthebiff]

Really nice thread Tom and great investigation on those cowls! 

 

Now I was going to do Sconk Works but that fist image you posted of 57 interests me a lot. Think I need to dig a bit as I would really like to do this one 

 

Regards. Andy 

[Uncarina]

3 hours ago, monthebiff said:

Really nice thread Tom and great investigation on those cowls! 

 

Now I was going to do Sconk Works but that fist image you posted of 57 interests me a lot. Think I need to dig a bit as I would really like to do this one 

 

Regards. Andy 

Thanks Andy! Funny you should write that. Depicting Skonk Works is what motivated me to make the conversion!

 

Cheers,  Tom

[Uncarina]

The next workaround listed is moving the instrument panel towards the pilot. As it's designed in the kit the panel sits too far forward and almost disappears under the instrument shroud, as demonstrated by Wes Shull's fine build from the A-20G Havoc FB Group:

 

 

Here's the panel position on the aircraft for reference:

 

 

 

The proximity of the control column to the panel shows the difference. Here's my workaround. It isn't exactly accurate, but the view looking in will focus on the panel position more than the cockpit floor:

 

 

 

 

Here I'm using the magnificent Airscale pilot's seat and the Eduard Look set. Since angled support pieces are 3-D printed, they are brittle--you can see this from my repaired crack along the left side--but can be carefully sanded to shape. Note how far the panel has been repositioned--the slots on the floor are where the rear section of the panel base piece from the kit are supposed to be positioned.

 

Until next time!

 

Cheers,  Tom

Edited September 13, 2023 by Uncarina

[monthebiff]

This is a superb thread as usual Tom, I really want to crack on and build this one bit I'm going to be patient and finish a couple from rhe SOD first!

 

Rather than a nose art build  I'm definitely going for 57 . Been looking at the paint scheme and looks really interesting. 

 

Regards.  Andy 

[Uncarina]

34 minutes ago, monthebiff said:

This is a superb thread as usual Tom, I really want to crack on and build this one bit I'm going to be patient and finish a couple from rhe SOD first!

 

Rather than a nose art build  I'm definitely going for 57 . Been looking at the paint scheme and looks really interesting. 

 

Regards.  Andy 

Andy it's great to have you on board! I understand about the SOD challenge--I certainly have my share. I'm really enjoying the kit so far. Everything I haven't modified has been a drop-in fit. By the way, you might like this site: http://www.warbirdsresourcegroup.org/URG/a20havoc_gallery.html . It includes "57" and a number of other examples.

 

Cheers,  Tom

 

 

[Uncarina]

The third (maybe final) modification I focused on is probably the most publicized challenge of the kit: the strength of the nose gear. In many cases a weak landing gear can be attributed to the limitations of plastic--the Airfix 1/24 Typhoon comes to mind--resulting in the dreaded wobbly stance. Aerocraft and G-Factor products are valued resources for addressing this with their brass alternatives.

 

The weak nose gear in this kit is no exception: out of the box the kit parts bearing the weight are weak. However, the A-20 nose gear (part H21) attaches to the landing gear bay through two relatively small points of contact: a triangular forward strut that creates the rotating gear axle (part H20), and a rear reinforcement strut (part H1) that attaches to the roof of the gear bay. As ChuckD discovered in his build, the design is vulnerable to detached parts and/or breakage.

 

I wrestled with this design challenge and my first workaround was crude but effective:

 

 

Here you can see that I added a plastic block with a hole to insert the brass nose gear that Aerocraft offers (https://www.aerocraftmodels.com/douglas-a-20-havoc-nose-strut-for-132-hkm-kit-196-p.asp); definitely not on the original aircraft, but it gets the job done. You can also see the small attachment points of the struts to the nose gear. Subsequently Ali from Aerocraft created a much less obtrusive and more effective sleeve to go with his product. The vast majority of modellers do not peer inside gear bays of their models after they are in the display case or even on display at events (except for judges of course), and this solution can not be seen outside of the gear bay.

 

I should note here that HK Models has you attach the nose gear early in the build, and as ChuckD discovered, it will detach from the aircraft. Adding the sleeve offered by Aerocraft allows the nose gear to be added towards the end of the build, since the attachment struts can be rotated into the bay when not in use:

 

 

Meanwhile I was a little frustrated with my crude attempt, and although Ali very kindly offered to ship his solution to me, I still had an itch to scratch: I wanted to see if it was possible to create a compromise using the kit parts only without sacrificing too much strength.

 

I posted my first workaround on the FB Havoc group page and Tod Galvin suggested an alternative would be to replace the triangular forward strut with thicker rod, thereby allowing less flex and a stronger contact point with the nose gear. After my aborted attempt at soldering a horizontal rod to the Aerocraft nose gear I went with his suggestion:

 

 

 

While not as strong as my first workaround it is significantly stronger than the kit parts. To make the gear retractable I removed a small section of the gear bay side that locks in where part H1 attaches (see arrow), thereby allowing it and the nose gear to swing out of the way until final assembly:

 

 

 

 

Note: due to a variety of changing circumstances I’ve had to sell this kit, and am really pleased to see it now in Chuck’s very capable hands. Until next time!

 

Cheers,  Tom

Edited June 16 by Uncarina

[easixpedro]

Clever problem solving! Love it

 

[Uncarina]

2 hours ago, easixpedro said:

Clever problem solving! Love it

 

That’s high praise indeed coming from you! I have serious respect for your Helldiver work.

 

Thanks,  Tom

[TimW]

Well...my Eduard PE for the cockpit has arrived, along with some Brassin wheels.

 

Zotz decals on the way...

 

Maybe I can finally get going on this one.   This thread will be very helpful!

 

Cheers,

 

Tim W.

[Uncarina]

1 hour ago, TimW said:

Well...my Eduard PE for the cockpit has arrived, along with some Brassin wheels.

 

Zotz decals on the way...

 

Maybe I can finally get going on this one.   This thread will be very helpful!

 

Cheers,

 

Tim W.

Glad to help Tim! Note that the consensus is that the Eduard wheels are oversized, and they are going to release a revised version. We’ll see if that actually happens but at least be aware that their wheels are being called into question.

 

Cheers,  Tom

[TimW]

2 hours ago, Uncarina said:

Glad to help Tim! Note that the consensus is that the Eduard wheels are oversized, and they are going to release a revised version. We’ll see if that actually happens but at least be aware that their wheels are being called into question.

 

Cheers,  Tom

Uh oh.  Did not know that about the wheels...

 

Trying to find some 1/32 Parafrag bombs as well.  I think R2Detail has some.

[ChuckD]

Welcome back, everyone, to this build thread with an M Night Shyamalan-level twist. 

 

As Tom was posting this build thread, I was just wrapping up my build of STINKY, of the 3rd Bomb Group in New Guinea.  If you followed the build thread for that, I had was sort of blazing a trail as I started building the kit the day it arrived.  Ergo, I ran into a few issues, trials, and tribulations that had me changing direction a few times throughout the build.  The biggest issue for me wasn't the nose gear, it was the cowls.  I was awed by Tom's work converting the older block cowls to the later block.  I thought at the time that if I had that kind of talent (or at least those parts), I could turn out one of the subjects I really wanted to do the first time around.

 

Serendipitously, Tom decided to sell this kit a few months ago. I inquired and, ever the gentleman that he is, he cut me a screaming deal on it.  So now, as fate would have it, I do have those parts in my hot little hands.    Sure, the cowl issue has been somewhat mitigated by HKM releasing the J/K kit with the later cowls (and I may or may not have that kit in my stash too), but as yet, Tom's method is the only way to build a late-block G model gunship.

 

... and I do love me some gunships. 

 

So without further ado, and with @Uncarina's blessing, I am going to hijack/resurrect this thread and turn it into the build thread for my next subject:

 

The Gladstone Flash, 674th BS, 417th BG, Saidor New Guinea, 1944.

 

If you've followed any of my other build threads, you know my typical MO is to try to recreate an historical photo.  So in this case, I'm going to work to recreate this shot: A Man and His Dog.

World, meet Sgt. Richard Hart, crewchief of the Gladstone Flash, and the squadron 674th BS mascot. 

 

According to Claringbould in Pacific Profiles volume 3, the Gladstone Flash was delivered new to the 674th.  Flown by Lt. William Paterson throughout the war it survived hostilities though its ultimate fate is unrecorded. 

 

My plan is to build a smallish vignette with Sgt. Hart and his dog standing next to the a/c as depicted above.  The a/c itself and the groundwork should be fairly straight forward, though the plane is obviously deeply weathered (check out the oil stain on the nacelle and the grime on the inspection panels).  To challenge myself, I'm going to make an attempt to sculpt both the man and his dog from scratch.  It's a skill I really want to build and a fairly basic pose like this will hopefully help me get some practice sculpting without trying anything overly complicated.

 

So, here's where we're at presently:

Most of the interior has been expertly built already, which saves me a ton of work.  As you can see, Tom included quite a bit of aftermarket ( <3 ) and I added a little bit too.  We have, in no particular order:

1. Airscale cockpit set which I may or may not use outside of the seat and canopy rail.
2. Eduard Look cockpit set which I will likely use.
3. Eduard wheel set.  I can confirm that they are smaller than the ones that I used on STINKY as those were a pre-production model.  The size difference isn't huge, but it is noticeable if you hold the two parts up next to each other.  Whatever.  In my reality, STINKY has tundra tires for all its outback flying adventures.
4. 1 Man Army stencil decals.
5. ASK .50 cal barrels

And of course, Tom's delightful cowlings.  Also included are two random little 3D printed bushing looking things.  @Uncarina, any idea what those two little nubbies between the cowl and seatbelts are for?

 

Tom's cowl flaps look the part too!

 

So from here, I'll keep moving forward with the build.  I need to run through the instructions and verify what has and hasn't been put together so that I make sure I don't miss anything, but I think it'll be bound for the paint booth before too long.  On STINKY, I followed HKMs paint guide and used a tinted zinc chromate for the interior.  For the Flash, I think I'll use a more traditional interior green. 

 

We're off and running!

[Uncarina]

Go Chuck go!

 

Cheers,  Tom

[easixpedro]

Dig it! As seamless as to sprinters passing a baton. Gonna be awesome