Tamiya 1/32 Corsair "Birdcage"

[Bstarr3]

It's been a long time since I've posted a project here, mostly because I haven't done an LSP in a while, but also because I've been exploring sharing my work on Instagram.  Please give me a followthere, if you like. 

 

Up next for me is a big project involving the lovely Tamiya Birdcage Corsair.  I've started, of course, with the cockpit.  I laid down a coat of MRP Super Silver, then chipping solution, and a custom mixed vallejo acrylic dull dark green.  I don't love how the vallejo chipped - a little too aggressively, but I'm not too worried about it because I plan to put a pilot in there.  For that reason I'm also not troubling with placard decals or adding wiring, just straight OOB.  Here are a few pics of the finished sub assemblies:

 

 

 

 

And then, all put together and weathered.  I used Ammo Oilbrushers for my primary weathering here, Starship Filth and Dust. 

 

 

 

And I'm seeing that images edited for Instagram don't really translate well to forum.  I'll try to post some less manipulated photos later so we can see detail better. 

 

Anyway, thanks for taking a look - I'm enjoying being back on here sharing a new project!

 

Edited May 19, 2023 by Bstarr3

[Phil88]

Great start, i like 

[Bstarr3]

The wing root/undercarriage section of this kit is just a marvel of engineering. The way everything fits into place is just awesome. Here’s everything fit together, with some custom mixed salmon pink primer. I’m giving Mission Models another try, because I don’t really have adequate ventilation for MRP. A little chipping in the gear bays and that’s it for now!  
 

 

 

 

 

This is Mission Models light gray, which seems almost white compared to reference photos. I might have to mix it up a little bit darker to get more of a gray hue to it. 

Edited May 21, 2023 by Bstarr3

[MikeMaben]

 

                        

[Grissom]

Hi Bstarr3,

 

Really liking the work and the effort you're putting into this kit - really sharp looking work.   With regard to your photography, can I just say that white backgrounds look really good in most cases but they create a 'high dynamic range' image that can be very, very difficult to manage.   High dynamic range means there's a big difference between the extent of the shadows and highlights in a given image.

 

I respectfully ask that you consider (and try) the addition of some flash or light to fill the shadows in your scenes - thereby reducing the image's dynamic range.  This will reduce the degree of contrast between your shadows and your highlights (your dynamic range) and better display the tonal values of the work you've created.   Please don't see this as 'criticism' of your photography, it's simply intended to improve your skills and better depict the quality work you produce.   As a potential 'fix', try using a more neutrally toned background to give you a fighting chance of showing us what a truly amazing job you're doing on this project.  As I said, this is not a criticism of your photography, as such, but just some advice on how to better sell your work.  If you require a more detailed (and better) explanation, you are most welcome to personally message me.

 

Kind regards,

 

Wayne 

[Bstarr3]

8 hours ago, Grissom said:

Hi Bstarr3,

 

Really liking the work and the effort you're putting into this kit - really sharp looking work.   With regard to your photography, can I just say that white backgrounds look really good in most cases but they create a 'high dynamic range' image that can be very, very difficult to manage.   High dynamic range means there's a big difference between the extent of the shadows and highlights in a given image.

 

I respectfully ask that you consider (and try) the addition of some flash or light to fill the shadows in your scenes - thereby reducing the image's dynamic range.  This will reduce the degree of contrast between your shadows and your highlights (your dynamic range) and better display the tonal values of the work you've created.   Please don't see this as 'criticism' of your photography, it's simply intended to improve your skills and better depict the quality work you produce.   As a potential 'fix', try using a more neutrally toned background to give you a fighting chance of showing us what a truly amazing job you're doing on this project.  As I said, this is not a criticism of your photography, as such, but just some advice on how to better sell your work.  If you require a more detailed (and better) explanation, you are most welcome to personally message me.

 

Kind regards,

 

Wayne 

Thanks very much for the constructive criticism, Wayne.  I definitely found that I had a problem with exposure with the white background, and had to try to punch up the shadows digitally, which really "pops" on a phone screen, but looks way over-processed when looking closely at the photos as here. 

 

The other major limitation is that I'm using my iPhone.  I don't really have interest in photography and can't justify buying a camera just to document my model builds.  I use my spray booth as a photo booth, because it has nice neutral lighting, and use a white plastic photo backdrop.  I've seen nice photos with blue backgrounds - I might get a different photo backdrop and see if I can get better outcomes.  

 

Again thanks for the tips - it's definitely a whole additional art form to photograph our work well, and one that I have a lot to learn about

[Bstarr3]

I’m on the horns of a dilemma as regards my project, here. I bought the Barracudacast resin wheels, which are a lot better than the rubber tires from the kit. However, they have a flat spot, which doesn’t suit to my intended take off display (ie, in flight, but wheels down). What say you - am I better off finding a workaround for the flat spot on the resin tire, or the seam line on the rubber one?

 

 

 

[LSP_Kevin]

I reckon removing the flat spot on the resin tyre would provide a more satisfactory result than dealing with the seam on the rubber one, though possibly more work. I think much of the flat spot on the Barracuda parts is contained within the slight vertical bulge on the bottom of the tyre, and removing that would remove most of the flat spot. You may have to add little putty to make it fully round again, but the hardest part will be recreating the tread pattern. Your call, however!

 

Kev

[MikeMaben]

12 hours ago, Bstarr3 said:

          I've seen nice photos with blue backgrounds - I might get a different photo backdrop and see if I can get better outcomes. 

 

                light gray or off white/cream are the best, least clashing neutral background colors.

 

2 hours ago, Bstarr3 said:

          am I better off finding a workaround for the flat spot on the resin tire, or the seam line on the rubber one?

 

      Brush some CA on the seam of the rubber tire and sand it , or like Kevin suggested, putty up the flat spot and rescribe the tread.

 

 

[Grissom]

16 hours ago, Bstarr3 said:

Thanks very much for the constructive criticism, Wayne.  I definitely found that I had a problem with exposure with the white background, and had to try to punch up the shadows digitally, which really "pops" on a phone screen, but looks way over-processed when looking closely at the photos as here. 

 

The other major limitation is that I'm using my iPhone.  I don't really have interest in photography and can't justify buying a camera just to document my model builds.  I use my spray booth as a photo booth, because it has nice neutral lighting, and use a white plastic photo backdrop.  I've seen nice photos with blue backgrounds - I might get a different photo backdrop and see if I can get better outcomes.  

 

Again thanks for the tips - it's definitely a whole additional art form to photograph our work well, and one that I have a lot to learn about

Hi Bstarr3,

Thank you for not taking offence.   I teach photography to my employees and understand the restrictions most modellers have in this respect.   Don't paint yourself into a corner by using a white background, unless you have the equipment to manage it.   White backgrounds generally require additional equipment that most modellers don't have and a greater understanding of photography.   There are many, many modellers on this forum who capture beautiful images of the models they've created without resorting to black or white backgrounds.   If you're hell-bent on photographing your subject against a white background, consider using some flash to fill the shadows and reduce the image's dynamic range.

 

Once again, beautiful work.

 

Cheers,

 

Wayne       

[Grissom]

Hi Bstarr3,

I should have acknowledged your comment about using an iPhone to photograph your work.   There is nothing wrong with using an iPhone to photograph your models.  I never cease to be amazed at the quality of images iPhones produce when compared to semi-professional and professional cameras.   Apple's ability to deal with low light is nothing short of remarkable.   Having said that, don't paint yourself into a corner by using a difficult background.   You can remedy the situation by using 'sympathetic' backgrounds and using your iPhone's amazing potential to capture the images you want.  What I'm trying to say, in a round-a-bout way, is use the 'KISS' principle - Keep It Simple, Stupid'.   One final note - a tripod is worth its weight in gold - just say'n....

 

Cheers,

 

Wayne 

[Woody V]

4 hours ago, MikeMaben said:

Brush some CA on the seam of the rubber tire and sand it

That's brilliant!

Any tips on getting the flash out of the places between the treads? 
How in the world this damned rubber tire thing caught on and still plagues us is beyond me. 

[Oldbaldguy]

I also vote for cleaning up the kit’s rubber tires.  Airplane tires are much abused and start to show wear on the centers of the tread pretty quickly so even if your work on the seam shows a bit, it wouldn’t matter.  If you are modeling an airplane operating off a hastily prepared strip in the Pacific, then all the better.

[TAG]

Completely unhelpful to your conundrum, @Bstarr3, but sometimes tires IRL also have seams, just sayin'...

Here's a maintainer doing his best to scrape that pesky seam off a Finnish 109. 

 

Good luck with your tires, whichever route you decide to pursue!

 

- Thomaz

Edited May 23, 2023 by TAG

[KUROK]

I'd say use some putty like Aves or Milliput to build up the tire's flat spot.

Then use a razor saw to mimic the tread.  If you have that part aimed downward it will be hard for the casual observer to see any imperfections in the restored tread.