Securing small pieces of pe

[denders]

6 hours ago, chukw said:

I love soldering, so I add a pin to tiny bits, drill and glue. Here's an exclusive preview to the Mohawk post I hope to get on line tomorrow. The upended wooden block is my old mini Miter Jr.- any small u-channel with a section to tape the wire securely to will do.  You saw it here first!

 

You've got my curiosity, what type of solder and flux do you use?

 

Dave

 

Edit: I saw your post over in your OV-1 thread, it's fine to answer over there instead of polluting Max's thread.

 

Edited January 21, 2023 by denders

[quang]

5 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

Honest question here on the UV (of which I use all the time now for other projects), when you have super dinky PE parts to glue that are flat sometimes and cannot have a lot of glue on the back of them, and you dont want any glue around the edges/showing how does the light cure the UV in that case?

UV glues only work when they are exposed to the blue light.
In other instances like the flat PE parts in your case, I’d use PVA/wood glue with the following method:

- the glue is first applied with a toothpick in a tiny spot where the part should go.
- the part is positioned using the wet tip of a 00 paint brush

- the excess glue is removed with a flick of the wet brush

- the remaining glue will dry clear (and invisible)

Any PVA glue would work but lately I found that Canopy Glue from PACER gives a stronger bond than most.

HTH

Quang
 

[jeroen_R90S]

I coat the parts with metal primer (Tamiya in my case) and attach them with X-22 clear gloss. When coated with metal primer this sticks surprisingly well.

[amurray]

I have tried most of the excellent approaches suggested above and found they work under certain circumstances.  I would suggest three additional things:

1. WHATEVER you use to attach the part, attach it first to the bear plastic and NOT to a painted or primed surface.  CA especially will just lift off the paint underneath the part if applied to a painted surface.  You probably know this but it is worth repeating.
2. Although I've had horrible experiences using Future as a clear coat, it does make a great adhesive - especially years-old Future put in a separate small glass jar.  I discovered this quite by accident.  I had put a small amount of Future in a leftover paint jar for dipping canopies.  Forgot where I put it.   Found it years later to use to dip a canopy but saw it was much too thick for canopy dipping.  But I experimented with it a little and found it made a great adhesive.  Look at a small puddle of dried Future - hard as a rock!  Yes, I know:  Future is the modelers' version of duct tape.  But, then, . . . I use a LOT of duct tape around the house and yard!  
3. Another method I started using this past year out of sheer frustration with small PE parts is liquid cement.  I understand that liquid glue per se will not make a PE part adhere to a plastic part.  But if one puts the liquid glue on the plastic one can press the PE part into the glue-softened plastic.  When the glue cures that part's not going anywhere!  Obviously, this approach requires a bit of finesse.