Figure Painting Tutorial

[Greif8]

1 minute ago, Stokey Pete said:

I’m intrigued to give the glazing technique a go. I usually paint my figures with acrylics, and would like to add a bit more life to them. 

 

Hi Pete, as I stated at the start of this installment, the glazing technique works best on figures that have a fair amount of folds in their clothing/equipment.  I find that the layering technique is better for figures that aren't like that.  I will also be doing a layering technique SBS installment in the future on this thread.  I'll be working on this figure today and might have an update ready to post tonight.

 

Ernest

[Greif8]

The figure is completed with the exception of the flesh areas.  I used the exact same glazing technique to paint the parachute straps and flight helmet that I used to paint the other uniform and equipment items.  The detail areas were painted using a 000 brush; no special technique was used on those tiny spots, just a steady hand.  As you can see, the glazing technique results in a very good looking figure.  It is pretty easy to execute, dries very fast and does not require any blending skills at all.  The only thing I adjusted on this figure was adding another light coat of yellow to the Mae West before I painted the final areas.  I normally start an new paint session by reviewing the work I did the day before.  I find this lets me see the figure in another light so to speak and I think it helps me better assess where a particular figure stands in the painting process.  I probably make 90% of any corrections/improvements that are required after reviewing a figure that I have let sit overnight.

 

The majority of the photos below were shot from 30-40 cms distance using a fairly indirect, but not diffused light source at my bench.  It is a rainy dark day today, as was yesterday, and natural light conditions are poor for photos of this sort.  My bench lighting tends to leech some of the highlights and shadows out of photos making them look either too stark or rather flat.  When light conditions are better, I will reshoot some photos and post them so you can get a better appreciation for what the glazing technique results in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This poor macro shows some of the effect that glazing can give you.  The brown was painted in three light coats over the black/white airbrushed base.  I single highlight was added using a lightened shade of the brown and a dark brown pin wash was added to the laces and the areas between the soles and uppers of the boots.  I'll shoot a better photo when light conditions have improved.

 

Edited January 12, 2023 by Greif8

[Greif8]

The figure is completed with the exception of the flesh areas.  I used the exact same glazing technique to paint the parachute straps and flight helmet that I used to paint the other uniforma and equipment items.  The detail areas were painted using a 000 brush; no special technique was used on those tiny spots, just a steady hand.  As you can see, the glazing technique results in a very good looking figure.  It is pretty easy to execute, dries very fast and does not require any blending skills at all.  The only thing I adjusted on this figure was adding another light coat of yellow to the Mae West before I painted the final areas.  I normally start an nw paint session by reviewing the work I did the day before.  I find this lets me see the figure in another light so to speak and I think it helps my better assess where a particular figure stands in the painting process.  I probably make 90% of any corrections/improvements that are required after reviewing a figure that I have let sit overnight.

 

The majority of the photos below were shot from 30-40 cms distance using a fairly indirect, but not diffused light source at my bench.  It is a rainy dark day today, as was yesterday, and natural light conditions are poor for photos of this sort.  My bench lighting tends to leech some of the highlights and shadow out of photos making them look either too stark or rather flat.  When light conditions are better, I will reshoot some photos and post them so you can get a better appreciation for what the glazing technique results in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This poor macro shows some of the effect that glazing can give you.  The brown was painted in three light coats over the black/white airbrushed base.  I single highlight was added using a lightened shade of the brown and a dark brown pin wash was added to the laces and the areas between the soles and uppers of the boots.  I'll shot a better photo when light conditions have improved.

 

[Greif8]

Completed the USN pilot figure today.  I decided to paint the flesh areas using a combination of the layering and glazing technique using acrylic paint.  As this was the first time I have attempted to use acrylic paints to paint flesh areas I did not do a SBS.  I want to practice and refine the technique before I do an SBS to paint flesh areas using the glazing, and/or layering technique(s). 

 

So why I am posting some photos?  I wanted to show what can be done with acrylics using a basic combination of the layering/glazing techique, even by a first time user of them for painting flesh areas.  I used Tamiya paint and acrylic retarder for the results you see below.  Again, I am going to practice/experiment some more to optimize the process; and once I feel confident that I can do a decent SBS I will post one.  That might be some weeks down the road.  

 

Ernest

 

The following 3 photos were shot from 30 cms distance.

 

 

 

And this final shot is at circa 20 cms.

 

[D.B. Andrus]

On 1/6/2023 at 3:54 AM, Greif8 said:

I am considering doing an SBS that highlights the glazing technique with acrylic paint, followed by an SBS that follows the layering technique - if there is interest in those.  I have a figure ready to do a glazing technique SBS from the start ready to go.  I'll hold off starting it to see if I get a few requests for an SBS.  

 

Ernest

 

Hey Ernest

 

I'm certainly up for it. Always eager to learn something new. Thanks to your SBS I tried out my first figure ever - Japanese pilot from Ki-84 kit...enjoyed it a lot.

 

Cheers,

Damian

[D.B. Andrus]

 "....I won't go into how a wet palette is used unless someone asks."

 

Asking....

[Greif8]

5 hours ago, D.B. Andrus said:

 "....I won't go into how a wet palette is used unless someone asks."

 

Asking....

 

Hi Damian, I am glad hear one of my tutorials was helpful for you.  The installment directly above covers the glazing technique.   As I said above I need to practice and refine the technique for flesh areas before I do an indepth SBS of those.

A wet Palette is a term for keeping acrylic paint moist and workable for a few hours.  There are several ready made one, I use the one sold by Army Painter that you can see above.  It basically consists of a tray, flat sponge and a semi-permeable sheet much like the paper used for baking. 

 

You use it by wetting the sponge, putting it in the tray, adding a couple of mm of waterproof and laying the paper on top.  Work out the air bubbles and you are ready to put paint on it.  You add a small amount of paint directly to the surface and use it as required.  You can mix and thin as needed right on the wet Palette.

 

HTH,

Ernest  

Edited January 16, 2023 by Greif8
Spelling

[mozart]

Very convincing figures using this different technique Ernest. Thank you for showing us these methods.

[D.B. Andrus]

Used acrylics on the face...need wet palette, paint dried way too fast. Need stronger work glasses, too. Kind rough looking, but at least it's a start.  

 

Kit pilot K1-84:

 

 

 

 

[quang]

3 hours ago, Greif8 said:

There are several ready made one, I use the one sold by Army Painter that you can see above. 

Reminds me of those guys who make a living by selling lukewarm water on the internet. 
Here’s my wet palette. It took me one minute to make it. 
Basically, its a plastic food container lid + 2 layers of water-soaked kitchen towel paper + 1 layer of grease proof bakery paper.

 

It will keep your Vallejo acrylics fresh to use for a whole evening, and even more if you cover it with a piece of kitchen foil.

HTH

Quang

[Greif8]

1 hour ago, quang said:

Reminds me of those guys who make a living by selling lukewarm water on the internet. 
Here’s my wet palette. It took me one minute to make it. 
Basically, its a plastic food container lid + 2 layers of water-soaked kitchen towel paper + 1 layer of grease proof bakery paper.

 

It will keep your Vallejo acrylics fresh to use for a whole evening, and even more if you cover it with a piece of kitchen foil.

HTH

Quang

 

Not trying to sell anyone anything, merely pointing out what I use.  

 

Ernest

 

Edited January 16, 2023 by Greif8
Spelling

[Greif8]

2 hours ago, D.B. Andrus said:

Used acrylics on the face...need wet palette, paint dried way too fast. Need stronger work glasses, too. Kind rough looking, but at least it's a start.  

 

Kit pilot K1-84:

 

 

 

 

 

A solid first effort Damian, much better than my first attempts!  A wet palette, and (IMHO) an acrylic retarder, are a must when painting faces or doing either the glazing or layering technique. 

 

Ernest 

[Greif8]

3 hours ago, mozart said:

Very convincing figures using this different technique Ernest. Thank you for showing us these methods.

 

Thank you Max!

 

Ernest 

[Greif8]

Concurrently with the 1/32 Meng Fokker Dr.I build I am currently doing, I will be painting both a 1/32 scale figure of Manfred von Richthofen by Model Cellar, and the 1/10 scale bust of him that came with the kit.  Both figure and bust have been primed in black and the figure and the bust's head have had there acrylic base coats airbrushed.  More details below.

 

For this figure I am going to use oil paints to both overcoat the acrylic base coat colors and to add the highlights and shadows.  If you have followed my previous figure builds in this thread you will see that this is yet another varient that can be used for painting figures.  There is no changes to how I normally paint flesh areas, but I don't usually paint over the acrylic paint used on the uniform and equipment with oils.  Normally I will either just use oils to add highlights and shadows to the clothing, or either glazing or layering with acrylics to do the same thing.  Why the change?  No special reason other than I wanted to do something different.

 

The Model Cellar casting is excellent and provides a solid base for painting a nice looking figure.  Tamiya acrylics were airbrushed on the figure and after they have cured overnight I will spray one or two thin coats of semi-gloss clear before I start painting with the oils.  I will be mixing oils paints to get the colors I want for each area and I'll make sure to document that. 

 

The baron's face is exceptionally well cast and will be a lot of fun to paint.  His hat will also be fun; it will be a nice challenge to try to get the red band the correct tone and laid in nicely.  The small details will also be fun to paint with oils - and might in fact be a little easier due to the long drying time of oil paint.

 

I still need to spray the base color on the bust.  I am planning to try a technique that I have never used before so everyone will very likely get to see how things go when I try something new, step by step.  Might not be seemless!  I am not very impressed with the casting of the Blue Max, but I have not found a 1/10 scale replacement so it looks like I am going to have to make the best of what I have in this case.

 

The head is well cast and I managed to airbrush the primer coat and base acrylic colors onto it smoothly.  I'll be trying the same technique to paint the face that I will be using for the upper body to see if I can bring it off.  The eyes are going to be a challenge in this scale as they are large enough that all the eye detail has to be painted.  The cap should be pretty straight forward to paint.

 

 

More to follow soon and I hope you all enjoy this journey! 

 

Ernest

[Greg W]

On 1/16/2023 at 2:17 PM, D.B. Andrus said:

Used acrylics on the face...need wet palette, paint dried way too fast. Need stronger work glasses, too. Kind rough looking, but at least it's a start.  

 

Kit pilot K1-84:

 

 

 

 

 

Wow, you've got lots of talent for this! Well done!