LSP_Kevin Posted February 15, 2023 Share Posted February 15, 2023 Looking forward to seeing how these decals work out, Dave! I've had some decal paper in my stash for decades, but have never actually used it. Probably rancid by now. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greif8 Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 Wow! Those decals look great Dave! Ernest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denders Posted February 16, 2023 Author Share Posted February 16, 2023 Thank you guys. Here it is. The Microscale decal paper is amazing. I held it in the water for about 5 seconds and when I pulled it out it was ready to come off the paper. I had put some SOL on the fuselage before putting the decal in place and after the decal was in place. If you look closely, there are fine cracks int the numerals. I'm guessing that is where the decal wrinkled from the SOL. It would seem like the inkjet ink doesn't like that. It is what it is. Also, to note, the decal didn't really want to slide easily after being put on the model surface. More to learn about the process. Now to put some of the small kit decals in place. Dave mywifehatesmodels, BradG, Alain Gadbois and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrotten Highlander Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 Perhaps you need to put the protection layer on first, then print, then add another protection layer - that way the ink is trapped in between 2 layers and might allow the decal to slide easier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denders Posted February 16, 2023 Author Share Posted February 16, 2023 It's an idea for the future. I don't think the tiny fractures in the ink are due to trying to slide the decal. I didn't notice them 'til after the SOL had dried. So, I'm inclined to think they're from the 'typical' wrinkling of decals from using SOL on them. It looks like the decal layer on the Microscale sheet is very thin. And thinking about it while I'm typing this, I'm not sure that there is anything on the decal sheet except the adhesive layer. So, perhaps a protection layer before printing would be a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 Fantastic result, Dave! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greif8 Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 Beautiful work Dave! THe decals you made look fantastic. Ernest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 Hey Dave, maybe you do this already, but I always put a drop or 2 of dishsoap (Dawn) in my decal water. It breaks the surface tension and slides better. I've never had any problem with soap residue afterward but if I did I'd just wipe the area with warm water. Decal looks fine from here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denders Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 Thanks Mike. Thanks for the reminder on the dish soap. It's not noticeable at normal distance, only if you get close in and look for it. I've started panel lines, which usually test my patience because, all the subassemblies are done, well almost, and I want to get it finished. I usually let them be a bit sloppy to add dirt, etc. except that I want this one to look reasonably clean. MikeMaben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themongoose Posted February 18, 2023 Share Posted February 18, 2023 On 2/16/2023 at 12:55 PM, denders said: Thank you guys. Here it is. The Microscale decal paper is amazing. I held it in the water for about 5 seconds and when I pulled it out it was ready to come off the paper. I had put some SOL on the fuselage before putting the decal in place and after the decal was in place. If you look closely, there are fine cracks int the numerals. I'm guessing that is where the decal wrinkled from the SOL. It would seem like the inkjet ink doesn't like that. It is what it is. Also, to note, the decal didn't really want to slide easily after being put on the model surface. More to learn about the process. Now to put some of the small kit decals in place. Dave I've been making a lot of decals lately with their sheets. My experience has been that with inkjet i had to coat it to keep the decal from cracking. Inkjet ink is also sensitive to the sol. I put down only microset to start with. It moved ok for me with this method. Once you press it in place and the water dries up you can apply the sol gently. I just dabbed it on to preserve the ink. I quickly moved to using the laser printer at work ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denders Posted February 18, 2023 Author Share Posted February 18, 2023 Well, I coated it on the top with MRP Super Clear lacquer. Do you mean putting a coat on the decal paper before printing? I didn't use Set under it, I did use Sol. And of course, Sol on top of it. I have to look at the decal sheet information to see if there's anything of a topcoat. If not, I'll need to put a coat of clear on the sheet before I print. Funny thing, in rearranging my space when I bought the 3D printer hardware, I disposed of a small, black only, LaserJet which wasn't being used. I'm retired, so I don't have the 'office' option. Ah well, perhaps I need to look into getting something again. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themongoose Posted February 19, 2023 Share Posted February 19, 2023 5 hours ago, denders said: Well, I coated it on the top with MRP Super Clear lacquer. Do you mean putting a coat on the decal paper before printing? I didn't use Set under it, I did use Sol. And of course, Sol on top of it. I have to look at the decal sheet information to see if there's anything of a topcoat. If not, I'll need to put a coat of clear on the sheet before I print. Funny thing, in rearranging my space when I bought the 3D printer hardware, I disposed of a small, black only, LaserJet which wasn't being used. I'm retired, so I don't have the 'office' option. Ah well, perhaps I need to look into getting something again. Thanks. i believe we can fix your problem Coat printed papers with varnish or the specific decal coat for the paper you are using. The lacquer is really hot and most likely is what broke up the ink. You’ll also want to let it dry for a day before submerging in water. Inkjet decals are such a pain mywifehatesmodels 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywifehatesmodels Posted February 19, 2023 Share Posted February 19, 2023 See if you can find some Microscale Liquid Decal Film. You shoot it through your airbrush. It's been fairly successful for me and it's not as hot as laquers and the other aerosol decal bonders that I've tried in the past. They're always going to be fragile, but this has worked for me. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted February 19, 2023 Share Posted February 19, 2023 Hey John, do you dilute the MLDF with water ? That stuff is pretty thick. I just get a one inch brush and brush one coat north and south, then 10 minutes later, another east and west. When dry that stuff disappears. I've never airbrushed it before so how do you thin it for airbrushing ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denders Posted February 19, 2023 Author Share Posted February 19, 2023 Well, going back and looking closely at the decals, I printed 6, the hairline cracks are there before they went in the water. I do have MLDF, should have used that. Next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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