Stevepd Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 (edited) Hi gang, I’m building my first ever 1/32 Tamiya F4 and have read about the intakes and the purchase of seamless intakes. I thought I’d take the hard route and fill and sand (repeat) to see what all the fuss is about. I thought I’d done quite well although time consuming but equally I’m not in a rush. I offered up the intake sides to go over the glued in intakes and then the problem was there in all its glory, a definite Doh moment. So I thought before I press on I’ll put into the web these seamless intakes and found this - https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/1-32-f-4-phantom-seamless-intake-tube Has anyone experience of this?. If not I’m going to download and print it and see what happens Steve. Edited November 29, 2022 by Stevepd Bloody autocorrect! thierry laurent, Elftone and Derek B 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheetah11 Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 Hi Steve I printed a set and it is usable but a bit rough. It needs some filling and sanding but a lot easier than modifying the kit parts. I used an Ender 5 with PLA. I have just upgraded to a .3mm nozzle and I think it will give better results. I also printed with layer heights of .1mm and will do another attempt with the minimum of the machine at .06mm. If you need a photo of the completed print just ask. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevepd Posted November 29, 2022 Author Share Posted November 29, 2022 Cheers Nick. Yes please that would be most helpful. I’m very much a novice to this 3D phenomenon. What could go wrong!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbk57 Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 If you can get a good 3d set this would be an ideal answer to the problem I think. The problem I am dealing with now is a set of cast resin seamless intakes. The casting quality in and of itself is very good, however the castings are slightly asymmetric. As such I have two different fit issues going. I know they are not symetrical because when I test fit them one no matter how I fit it was about 1mm off when aligned with the panel lines so If I matched it to the panel lines then it was short 1mm at the top. Also if I fitted it to the side of the plane it left a step between the fusilage and the intake. So I either have 1mm gap or less to the shaped ramp on the fusilage or I have a step between the intake and the fusilage on the outside. I chose to get as tight to the outside as possible and as close to top for the offsized one as possible so I will have to fill a gap between the v shape part and the intake but that should be easier to hide, then I will have to describe the panel lines to match. However with shrinkage and making master molds the old school way getting two perfectly fitting seamless intakes that are identical may be somewhere near impossible. I suspect you need to computer model the masters to get them right and 3d printing would probably give more consistency as to sizing. Stevepd and Anthony in NZ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheetah11 Posted November 30, 2022 Share Posted November 30, 2022 Hi Steve here are some photos. The layers are visible and will need some work but still easier than fixing the kit part. Cheers Nick Stevepd, LSP_K2, Anthony in NZ and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevepd Posted December 2, 2022 Author Share Posted December 2, 2022 (edited) Well this was my second attempt so stopped it to reconsider what’s gone wrong. Have converted the STL to a g.code then printed it, not changing any parameters. Seemed very stringy at first so binned that. Let this second print go onto 56% complete then the nozzle knocked over the tower. Edited December 2, 2022 by Stevepd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheetah11 Posted December 2, 2022 Share Posted December 2, 2022 Hi Steve Welcome to 3D printing. What slicer program are you using and what material? The bed temperature is also critical to make the piece adhere. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevepd Posted December 2, 2022 Author Share Posted December 2, 2022 Hi Nick, the material is what came with the unit. Bed temp is 60 degrees. I spliced it using https://anyconv.com/stl-to-gcode-converter/. I’ve just printed an aircraft jack that I’d done previously and it came out fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted December 2, 2022 Share Posted December 2, 2022 Printed mine on a FormLabs2, came out really nicely. Will upload a pic or two shortly. First time I had used FormLabs white resin, and while you can't see the detail so much as the grey, it is still there! Must try the intakes into the Phantom next.... Stevepd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevepd Posted December 5, 2022 Author Share Posted December 5, 2022 (edited) Well I finally got them done. I’m putting it all down to me as I’d not used the slicing software (creality) that came with the Ender 3 max unit. I’m in my honeymoon period and only my 3rd print, so once the STL file was converted correctly, plus some wishful thinking it printed fine. Changed to a new PLA which the CEO had purchased. So now I can effectively restart the build. Edited December 5, 2022 by Stevepd Elftone and Cheetah11 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted December 5, 2022 Share Posted December 5, 2022 15 hours ago, Stevepd said: Well I finally got them done. I’m putting it all down to me as I’d not used the slicing software (creality) that came with the Ender 3 max unit. I’m in my honeymoon period and only my 3rd print, so once the STL file was converted correctly, plus some wishful thinking it printed fine. Changed to a new PLA which the CEO had purchased. So now I can effectively restart the build. PLEEEEEEASE, ditch the PLA, get some HIPS!!!! PLEEEEEEEEEEEASE!!! Stevepd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheetah11 Posted December 6, 2022 Share Posted December 6, 2022 6 hours ago, wunwinglow said: PLEEEEEEASE, ditch the PLA, get some HIPS!!!! PLEEEEEEEEEEEASE!!! What temperature for the bed and nozzle for the HIPS printing? Stevepd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevepd Posted December 6, 2022 Author Share Posted December 6, 2022 9 hours ago, wunwinglow said: PLEEEEEEASE, ditch the PLA, get some HIPS!!!! PLEEEEEEEEEEEASE!!! Ok ok, give me a steer Tim……. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted December 6, 2022 Share Posted December 6, 2022 11 hours ago, Cheetah11 said: What temperature for the bed and nozzle for the HIPS printing? I run 235C nozzle, NO PART COOLING, bed at 105C, in an enclosure. But I have had successful builds with smaller parts on a little Monoprice at only 60C bed, its max. More important, is the printer is boxed in an enclosure, which immediately solves 95% of printing problems. And HIPS is far, far less affected by moisture. AND it glues, fills, sands, primes, drills, saws exactly like kit plastic, because, that is what it is!! Cheetah11 and Stevepd 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted December 6, 2022 Share Posted December 6, 2022 I'm just a little lower on temps for HIPS than Tim - my printer is running at about 232 deg C nozzle - and 93 bed, but my filament is from a different supplier, so may have slightly different properties. These properties can, actually, be slightly different between colours from the same manufacturer! Always test!! And you'l learn about 'glass temperature', as well as melting point - two different things - but quite important in my experience. As Tim says - an enclosure is needed. I'm using Cura to do my slicing for FDM printing - and Tim pointed me in the direction of a PEI bed - which gives absolutely superb bed adhesion. At the end of the print let everything cool really slowly to ambient room temp - before opening enclosure and lifting off the build plate. But I'm getting consistently good prints with HIPS, that don't take very much surface prep. Iain wunwinglow 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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