Trumpeter 1/32 P-47D Razorback "Eileen"

[Martinnfb]

Museum quality as always 

[JayW]

3 hours ago, easixpedro said:

Am about to start the engine on my build and I though why not go waaaay back to page 7 and see how you did it.  A couple of moments after I gazed at this picture I stumbled across a picture from the Vought archives taken from almost the same angle.  Perfect replication.  Thanks for paving the way.  No way is mine going to be as nice, but I'll certainly try  

 

Peter - you starting in on a P-47?  If so you should know that around page 12, I reported that I had discovered John's P-47 build, was gob-smacked, and then proceeded to  make his life miserable for a while, pointing out flaws on the engine.  John addressed them all, and his engine and the P-47 as a whole is the better for it.  Check you sources on the engine versus the model, and proceed boldly.  I'll look for your build thread.  

[TAG]

Who else thinks John should start a Youtube channel showcasing some of his builds and techniques?

 

I know I'd sign up in a heartbeat, it would be so awesome to see you painting and building in real time! You could probably even start making some dinero with the amount of subs you'd get, maybe start a Patreon and line up something like Uncle Nightshift but for large scale planes instead of armor.

[LSP_Kevin]

2 hours ago, TAG said:

Who else thinks John should start a Youtube channel showcasing some of his builds and techniques?

 

I know I'd sign up in a heartbeat, it would be so awesome to see you painting and building in real time! You could probably even start making some dinero with the amount of subs you'd get, maybe start a Patreon and line up something like Uncle Nightshift but for large scale planes instead of armor.

 

John's already making some dinero!

 

 

 

 

And more to come!

 

Kev

 

[Troy Molitor]

And a serial purchaser.  Go John / Kev go!  

[Bstarr3]

I just spent the last three days catching up on this thread between patients at work.  This is just a masterclass, John!  Beautiful work and can't wait for RFI photos.  Also, mark me down as a "yes" for the Thunnus YouTube channel!!

[Thunnus]

Thanks for the positive comments!  But oh man, you guys are barking up the wrong tree when it comes to Youtube.  I ACTUALLY do have a Youtube channel.  And I ACTUALLY have a couple of model-related videos posted.  But they are just slideshows of photos that I've posted on my WIP threads.  No live video.  And certainly, no narration.  Simply put... I don't feel comfortable talking in front of a camera.  The majority of my Youtube posts are fishing clips and I don't do much talking on those either.  And I've been asked... hey,  you should talk about the fishing equipment that you are using or describe the technique but I'm not going to do it... that's just not me.

 

But I DO appreciate the sentiment behind the comments... very flattered that you'd be interested in watching something like that.  But this is the best I can do for ya...

 

 

 

 

 

[Landrotten Highlander]

3 hours ago, Thunnus said:

Simply put... I don't feel comfortable talking in front of a camera.

simple solution to this problem ... talk from behind the camera....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

euh, need to check to see if I am outside ....

Edited yesterday at 07:44 PM by Landrotten Highlander

[Thunnus]

2 hours ago, Landrotten Highlander said:

simple solution to this problem ... talk from behind the camera....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

euh, need to check to see if I am outside ....

 

LOL... I wish there was a difference but alas... no!

 

The next step is some post-shading work.  I use a heavily thinned mixture of brown and black to very subtly highlight joints and certain panel lines. I also create streaking effects and work up the exhaust stains.  This is most effective on lighter backgrounds so it is most visible on the bottom.

 

 

It's not so visible on the darker OD upper surfaces.

 

 

Salt fading on the upper surfaces is next.  This is another subtle layer of weathering that I like to add to the upper surfaces.  It works best on darker backgrounds.  First, I wet the upper surfaces with plain water.  Since the paint coat is flat, the water doesn't bead.

 

 

Rock salt is then sprinkled onto the wet surfaces.  Mostly random but I do concentrate on the panel lines to attempt to tie the stains to the surface features instead of being 100% random.

 

 

This needs to completely dry before I move to the next step.

[Thunnus]

When the water has completely dried, the salt crystals now form a random mask pattern. Now it is time to spray a VERY THINNED mixture of a lighter color, in this case Tamiya XF-555 Deck Tan, over the model in random streaks.  I thinned this mixture at 8:1.

 

 

The main challenge of this effect is it's subtlety... you don't want to overdo it or your model will look like it has the measles.  But if you don't apply enough of the lighter color, the effect may not show up at all.  This is the wing after I sprayed the Deck Tan and it is difficult to tell where I'm at.  I just have to trust the pre-spray test of the thinned mixture and hope for the best.

 

 

After the pain has dried, you can remove the salt.  I hold the model over a trash can and gently brush off the salt with my fingers.  It's encrusted and difficult to remove when dry so just get off as much as you can.  I then use spray bottle filled with water and wet the surface liberally, letting the excess water drip into the trash can.  I then use a clean rag to wipe off the water and the remnants of the salt crystals should come off as well.  I repeat this process a couple of times, making sure that any excess water that pools onto other areas of the model get wiped thoroughly.  The salt-impregnated water will eventually dry and may bloom into a white frost.

 

 

A closer look at the wing shows the result.  I think this technique nicely mimics the rain and weather wear that may accumulate on the aircraft's surface.

 

 

It's important to let the model completely dry for a couple of hours after the wiping process as the effect will be muted if the surface is even a little damp.

 

 

I will inspect each of the affected areas carefully.  Adjustments can be made by Micromeshing the area gently to tone down any exaggerated areas.  If severe enough, you can also use thinned mixes of the camo paint to tone down or remove the effect.  In this case, strategic Micromeshing should do the trick.

 

 

Here is the front fuselage after a bit of Micromeshing.

 

Just an FYI... the effect shown in these photos is a little exaggerated due to my photo post-processing.  I'll let the model sit for a while and then look at it again with fresh eyes and make adjustments to any of the post-shading and salt weathering layers laid down so far.

[JayW]

Magical.  Just magical.

[Bstarr3]

Beautiful work. And also, FYI, some of the best modeling YouTubes don’t have any narration at all…

[Johnny Cloud]

Man, a thread like this is such a treat!

Thank you Thunnus!

[TAG]

Hi, John

 

As always, just mind-blowing paint work, you are truly gifted!

 

One thing I should point out (apologies I've only noticed now, when you're almost at the finish line) are these strange little blobs on the leading edge of the horizontal stabs.

 

That is actually supposed to be a small triangular tab with a round hole, here's a page from the Detail & Scale book about the Jug.

 

Here's a period photo where you can see the tab to good effect.

 

And finally, here's how @Fenous dealt with it on his glorious Senta a Púa build.

 

EDIT: Found a couple modern-day photos that showcase this little-known detail well:

 

Hope you can deal with this annoying little detail without too much hassle, apologies again for bringing it up so late in the game!

 

Cheers,

- Thomaz

Edited 9 hours ago by TAG

[John Stambaugh]

This is truly a master class in realistic finishing.