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Milliput question


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I've seen a couple posts in the WIP section where guys are using Milliput to fill seams and use lacquer thinner (not the generic stuff)  to clean up the excess around the seam. My question is, can you do this after it cures or only before it cures?

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You don’t use thinner (lacquer or else) but WATER to clean up the excess of Milliput.

Do it just after applying the Milliput while it’s still soft.
Remove a maximum of excess with a spatula or a moistened Q-tip. Leave overnight to harden and clean up the join thoroughly by gently sanding off the remaining excess.

 

You can get a tidier job by masking around the join before applying the putty like I did on this mod of the Eduard Bf-109 slat area.

FAE3-CA9-B-3433-445-C-82-F0-ED8320-CA340


24-B654-A8-78-CF-4004-A270-4333780756-A2

 

HTH

Cheers,

Quang

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+2!

 

Keeping a small dish or bowl of water next to where you are working with the Milliput is also handy. I use it to dip my fingers in while working w/the Milliput while wet, and helps keep it from sticking where you dont want it to.

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1 hour ago, Pete Fleischmann said:

Hi Woody-

I switched to Apoxie Sculpt years ago. I prefer it to Miliput. It is much finer grain, and smooths beautifully with water. Sands wonderfully too-

 

 

What Milliput were you using Pete?

 

Ive used the "standard" Milliput and it is a tad grainer than I would have wanted. I ended up switching up to their "superfine" Milliput and its easily as fine as Apoxie Stulpt.

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1 hour ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

 

What Milliput were you using Pete?

 

Ive used the "standard" Milliput and it is a tad grainer than I would have wanted. I ended up switching up to their "superfine" Milliput and its easily as fine as Apoxie Stulpt.

Must’ve been the grainier stuff you mention-

Apoxie Sculpt also comes in like a 5lb set of 2 buckets!

(If you need a lot. Smaller quantities also)

P

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I have Apoxie Sculpt to try but I tend to use Mr Pro H and L from Creos it feathers down to zero with a bit of Mr Color thinners  and the "L" the light one can be rolled out really thin for canvas and things, a bit of talc helps.

 

 

Bob

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Milliput exists in different varieties. The texture, malleability, hardness and … smell are different with each variety.
I use standard (light olive green) for general build-up and superfine (white) for filling small joins and final finish. 
The superfine white Milliput, arguably the most expensive variety, was created for repairing porcelain ware. It has a very fine grain and feathers admirably. Its hardness is akin to the the styrene used on plastic kits and makes it perfect for mods and conversion.

 

I’ve tried other epoxy putties like Apoxie, Aves, A+B and Magic Sculp when I was sculpting figures in a previous life but Milliput remains my favourite when I work with plastic kits.

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1 minute ago, Bob MDC said:

I have Apoxie Sculpt to try but I tend to use Mr Pro H and L from Creos it feathers down to zero with a bit of Mr Color thinners  and the "L" the light one can be rolled out really thin for canvas and things, a bit of talc helps.

I forgot to add that white Milliput can be rolled paper-thin (especially when mixed with Duro green putty for extra strength).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey, Woody

 

Sorry for the lag, just saw your original post, here's a video I saw a few years ago by a very talented Italian modeler/painter called Marco Frisoni (his work is mostly figures and Warhammer stuff, but the techniques carry over to our preferred subjects) where he says his secret to shaping and smoothing Milliput is...

 

*Drumroll, please*

 

...isopropyl alcohol!

 

Here's a video where Marco shows his technique, he even uses the IPA as a thinner, creating different levels of viscosity/thickness and giving you infinite flexibility in applying Milliput to your model. Pretty neat stuff, hope that helps!

 

Cheers,

- Thomaz

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