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Zoukei Moura Bf-109 G-14 a Non-Hartmann Build 1/32 Scale


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4 hours ago, JayW said:

Great stuff Gazzas.  I know how to pronounce at least one word with a down unda accent.  G'day = G-die. 


My daughter (American) has lived in Sydney for about 5 years now.  Only thing I can tell different from phone calls is that she ends her sentences with the last syllable of the last word about a half octave higher.  :)  


2 hours ago, petrov27 said:

Looking great - yes the rivets do add a lot in my opinion - kudos for putting in the effort on them!


1 hour ago, D.B. Andrus said:

Aside from the niggles and disappointments with certain aspects of the kit, I think you're going to have a show-stopper when finished. Keep at it. I can't wait to see this guy on the Ready for Inspection forum!





Thank you, fellas!  I really hope it turns out well.  These rivets...   really new ground for me.

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5 hours ago, JayW said:

Ok - those rivets.  I really don't know what they are - some kind of decal?  How do they work?


They are a transfer.  Somewhat like a decal.  Here's how they tell you to do it:  But there are some things you need to know.


First thing they tell you is to remove the translucent paper.   But here you have to be careful.  Because sometimes the translucent paper is better stuck to the clear transfer sheet than it should be.  So what you end up doing is removing the clear transfer sheet from from the rivets.  So that when you dip what you have left in the water, your rivets float away.   I have an entire sheet of rivets where I cannot remove the translucent sheet.  But don't be alarmed, they still work.  Just don't remove the white paper.


So how do you know when not to remove the white paper?  Two ways.  Number one:  It's difficult to get it to start to separate.  Number two:  If you get it to separate, and the underside is shiny.  Like plastic shiny.  That means you have lifted the transfer sheet as well.  If you do get them to separate correctly, the underside of the white paper will have a satin sheen.


Number two:  The rubbery transfer sheet stretches.  It is quite easy to distort your pattern of rivets.  So, unlike a decal, if you hold one end down and pull on the other end, you can accidentally ruin your pattern by pulling too hard.


Thirdly:  They go from unsticky to stuck real fast.  When that happens and you want to move them, don't pull hard...   you will stretch something out of place.  To refloat the transfer, quickly apply a brushful of Mr. Mark Softer.





Edited by Gazzas
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It's a gloomy, rainy, damp day.  So, what better day to mix some paints and go outside and play with the airbrush?  I know..  I know.   Bad idea.

First I had to mix some paints.  A good opportunity to use some empty Tamiya Paint bottles.  I am using SMS paints.




I am going through a de-saturation phase of beliefs.  Using gray and buff (depending on the color to be de-saturated) to give a more in-scale look.


I dragged out an old, incomplete Hase 109 in 1/48 scale to test my new colors.






I know...  looks like Sh*t.  In my defence, it was raining and I was painting with only weak morning light.  I was only looking for the way the colors matched.  When I paint the model I will use some masks and fading effects for color modulation.  ...and other stuff.


What do you think about my colors?



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Personally think the obsession with "correct colour" esp for German equipment is a bit of a modellers fantasy . Desaturation , the effect of light on non light safe paints, the fact these paint were made often in slave factories from a dwindling supply of raw materials , the various different thinners used , kerosene, petrol , water etc before you go near the application method,  gives a wide range of variation in hue and shade way beyond "I've matched a RAL number" or I have a 90 year old paint chip .


Anyone who's ever restored a 1:1 US vehicle will tell you there re several different shades of Olive Green depending on period and paint , and most of those vehicles were sprayed in factories where supply and bombing was not such issues. Post war British vehicles have numerous issues with "Bronze" or "Nato Green" both of which were BS Standard colours but have been shown to have quite a bit of variation . I've done both and arguments over "correct for a Tuesday afternoon " rage there too .:BANGHEAD2:


So , rock on:beer: , I wouldn't go so far to paint it pink with yellow spots , but neither would I be beholden to absolutism .


The poor sods knocking out 109's underground in Budapest probably didn't worry too much either , neither did the KZ prisoners working at Gusen . 

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Welcome fellow modellers!


   Thank you all for the helpful replies and praise.


    I didn't feel like applying rivets today...   I had applied more, yesterday after my painting update.  Photos of them, later.


Today I focused on masks and adding raised detail to the control surfaces with masks.  So, it was a perfect time to do all of the masks with my Silhouette Portrait.  Here is a screenshot of the main plan.




You will notice how I used the masks to add the detail to the control surfaces:





I can just feel the texture when I run my fingertips over them.


I also tackled the propeller hub spiral.  Last year, when I built my PCM 190 I copied the supplied spinner decal to use it as mask.  It was a cool looking spiral...   that didn't work as a mask.  So, I made my own.




When the sides of the spinner become straighter, the need for curve decreases and a straighter line is needed.   Now I understand why spinner decals require so much decal softener. 


So, with that as my starting point, one at a time, I tried to make a mask that would fit my spinner with no wrinkles or other faults that could ruin the painting process.  The other five spirals on the mask are attempts to get the spinner right for a 109.




This is the correct shape for a mask that will fit the 109's spinner faultlessly.




To finish up...   Some more rivet shots.




Sadly the DF loop was a victim of my clumsiness.







Happy modelling!


Edited by Gazzas
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