Zoukei Moura Bf-109 G-14 a Non-Hartmann Build 1/32 Scale

[Hoss FL]

Following along intently. Enjoying your build, Gazzas. My ZM G-14 will remain on the shelf and move a little further down the build queue based on your pioneering work. 

[Gazzas]

Goodmorning, Campers!

 

 

Work continues.  Surface work and final joins of some panels.

 

There were a few sink marks.  Since I hate waiting for Mr. surfacer and other hot putties to dry, I added gouges giving black CA something to hold on to.  A spritz of activator, and then sanding.

 

  

I will say that I do love some things about this kit.  I have perfect dorsal and ventral seams.  Something I can never do on my own. But since all of the cement holding the halves together is on the internal frames, there is no rounded glue joint requiring scribing.

 

 

Below, you'll notice a segmented line of black CA between the oil cooler ring and forward edge of the cowling.  The reason is because the profile of the cowling didn't mate up neatly with the oil cooler ring.  The problem was that I needed to push the cowling out to mate neatly with the cooler ring.  Fortunately, I have some filo files that are curved at the ends.  I was able to insert them though a gap in the top of the oil cooler and apply pressure and a few drops of black CA.  Perhaps if I put all of the engine plumbing in, this might not have been necessary.

YMMV.

 

I have also been sanding the textured surface of the model.

[Gazzas]

Do you like sharp railing edges?  I certainly do.  But ZM didn't take this opportunity to ensure your flaps and ailerons were molded that way.  They did on the rudder and elevators.  In my limited experience, the only company that molds overlaps on the trailing edges of the main wings is ICM in their 1/48 lines.  I haven't done any ICM in 1/32, yet.

 

These are test shots after filing and sanding the flaps and ailerons.  Obviously getting the taper right isn't easy if you want to preserve molded-in detail.

 

 

And another interesting positive feature...   The brake lines are glued to the wheel well covers instead of the LG legs.

Happy modelling!

[Panzerwomble]

Interesting solution to the brake lines , better than the Trumpeter straight lines.

 

Flaps looking ...er ...sharp to too !

[Pastor John]

Following with interest and amazement at your skill at fixing frustrating issues with the most expensive and complicated kit I have ever bought! A big thank you Gaz. J

[Gazzas]

Guys...  

Thank you for the kind words and super support.

 

It's time to consider the canopy.  To check it for fit and to begin clean up.  There are a lot of sprue gates and ejector pin tabs.  But that just makes for higher quality parts.

I was so afraid of chipping or cracking, that I snipped them from the sprue as far away as was practical, and then sanded them down with my electric-toothbrush sander.  (the best tool tip I ever got)

 

Fit on the left:

Not bad.

 

Fit on the right:

Better...

 

Fit in the middle: 

Meh.  What's you favorite filler around the canopy?

 

This is the first time that any 109 model I have built has a back wall to the canopy glass as well as the cockpit lights.

You may notice that I accidentally broke and then repaired this part.

 

And...   and...   the armored windscreen is a separate part.

 

 

This is the fit of the early hood.  The antenna mast will be attached to your fuselage if you use this one.

The parts are thin with some flex.  Good thing I added them seat belts...  the view is nice.

 

A second shot for your viewing pleasure...

 

OK...   one more....

 

 

I...   and all of you Hartmann builders will be using this later canopy.  The antenna mast will be attached to it.  ...   oh...  and you have to drill a hole for the mast.

There are generous tabs representing the canopy hinges.

 

 

The armored head protection fits firmly into significant recesses.

I can't tell you how many 109's and 190's I've built where getting the head armor into the correct position was a chore.  Yes, I did wash my hands after work today.

 

 

There is some distortion in the armored glass.   But I ain't gonna worry about it.

 

 

The Revi reflector sight.  I think those two pieces with the arrows by them are for the canopy lights...   I can't seem to find them in the directions.

More research is required.

 

Finally...   a super-sized gun sight.  Get our your Novus kit to polish those teenie-weenie little panes.

 

That is all for now.  There are canopy masks in the kit. 

[Isar 30/07]

Quote

• Author

Posted 3 hours ago

Guys...  

Thank you for the kind words and super support.

 

It's time to consider the canopy.  To check it for fit and to begin clean up.  There are a lot of sprue gates and ejector pin tabs.  But that just makes for higher quality parts.

I was so afraid of chipping or cracking, that I snipped them from the sprue as far away as was practical, and then sanded them down with my electric-toothbrush sander.  (the best tool tip I ever got)

 

Fit on the left:

Not bad.

 

Fit on the right:

Better...

 

Fit in the middle: 

Meh.  What's you favorite filler around the canopy?

 

 

Gaz,

 

fantastic build so far!

 

I´m using 2 ways to fill around clear parts:

 

First and common to both: Make sure the clear part is properly glued onto the model (sounds strange, but I made my experiences with that).

I´m using MEK or Tamiya thin glue to be sure, every part is properly glued together.

 

One way I´m working further is applying Tamiya putty onto to surfaces and then using a brush dipped into Acetone to smoothen the putty.

This works easy and dries much faster than without Acetone. It might be not perfect after the first treatment so you might do it again.

BTW - the putty smoothened by Acteone is something I´m using all around a model when filling gaps and so on.

 

The other way is using UV-glue. Simply put the desired amount onto the gap and smoothen it if necessary using fine cloth or similar. When satisfied, use the activator.

If not satisfied you can repeat this again - or use putty thinned with Acetone.

 

But ways don´t harm the clear parts. 

 

HTH

 

Reimund

 

[somebody]

seems like a challenging kit.....was hoping/expecting it to go together like a tamiya kit. now, i'm not sure if I have the right skill sets to put this together.

Maybe I should sell it...

[Gazzas]

13 hours ago, Isar 30/07 said:

 

 

Gaz,

 

fantastic build so far!

 

I´m using 2 ways to fill around clear parts:

 

First and common to both: Make sure the clear part is properly glued onto the model (sounds strange, but I made my experiences with that).

I´m using MEK or Tamiya thin glue to be sure, every part is properly glued together.

 

One way I´m working further is applying Tamiya putty onto to surfaces and then using a brush dipped into Acetone to smoothen the putty.

This works easy and dries much faster than without Acetone. It might be not perfect after the first treatment so you might do it again.

BTW - the putty smoothened by Acteone is something I´m using all around a model when filling gaps and so on.

 

The other way is using UV-glue. Simply put the desired amount onto the gap and smoothen it if necessary using fine cloth or similar. When satisfied, use the activator.

If not satisfied you can repeat this again - or use putty thinned with Acetone.

 

But ways don´t harm the clear parts. 

 

HTH

 

Reimund

 

Thank you, Reimund.  I have some UV gel.  But I have always been afraid to touch it before I activate it.

[Gazzas]

2 hours ago, somebody said:

seems like a challenging kit.....was hoping/expecting it to go together like a tamiya kit. now, i'm not sure if I have the right skill sets to put this together.

Maybe I should sell 

 

That would be a shame.   This is my first ZM kit and I admit I was expecting high quality.  And it is a high quality kit, though with questionable design philosophy on the tail.  Otherwise, I’m just the first guy paving the way in my own bumbling manner.

[D.B. Andrus]

21 hours ago, Gazzas said:

 

I think those two pieces with the arrows by them are for the canopy lights...   I can't seem to find them in the directions.

More research is required.

 

Gaz

 

Those are the plex knobs fitted to the forward moveable sliding plex panels on the middle section of the 3 piece canopy.

 

HTH

Damian

 

 

 

[Panzerwomble]

Re filler around canopies , I tend to use Plastic Plastic Putty ...which is water based .. or good old Micro Krystal Klear ..both easily removed with water if it goes West 

 

Sometimes use the MKK as for small liquid mask jobs as well as it peels off plastic

[nmayhew]

9 hours ago, somebody said:

seems like a challenging kit.....was hoping/expecting it to go together like a tamiya kit. now, i'm not sure if I have the right skill sets to put this together.

Maybe I should sell it...

 

i'm not sure that was a realistic expectation at all - Z-m have an unblemished track record of producing complicated kits with huge amounts of internal and structural detail which are notoriously challenging to get to fit (note I am not saying "don't fit" - they just take a lot of work).

 

I would keep it and maybe do 2 things:

1) build some 1/32 Tamiya to experience the warm sunny glow of kits that are both detailed AND fit well - too many people say they are going to hone their skills on some junk before feeling ready to build say a Tamiya P-51, when in fact they should be doing things exactly the opposite way round! 

2) build a Hassy 190, 109 etc etc as a sort of middle ground - decent fit, decent detail, but you'll require more 'skills' than in a Tamiya kit

 

when you feel confident, return to the Z-m 109

 

getting things to fit is not necessarily a technique like hairspray chipping that you can learn from youtube vids - you just need to build in my view

 

but do hang in there!

[Gazzas]

It seems like a while since my last update.   I want to thank everyone for their kind support and helpful comments.

 

Anyway...   masked and painted the canopy parts.  The vinyl masks shrank a little, so I had to tape a few edges with masking tape.  Then I installed everything except the Galland hood.

 

I also detail painted the Revi 16/B gunsight and glued it in place...  then weathered it as well as the radio hatch area.

The tiny little black tab atop the sight is a tiny piece of PE fret bent at a right angle.  Can barely see it in a regular sized photo.  The Revi 16/B doesn't have a face crash pad.

 

The top view of the canopy.  The seam at the front is ugly.  But it's the best I can manage.  What I need is a self-levelling filler.  Anybody know of one that moves slowly enough to dry before exiting the lower ends?

 

I weathered the radio hatch area and gunsight with Tamiya enamels with a little aluminum chipping done with Citadel acrylics.

 

 

Scratch Builders...   You'll need to make some parts.

There are no upper braces for the head armor and no canopy opening lever.  I actually had to drag out my Revell G-10 Erla to get an idea of the size of the lever.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Comments appreciated.

Edited October 9, 2022 by Gazzas

[Panzerwomble]

That's looking pretty sharp .