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Treehugger's 1:32 Viggen (JET MADS second batch run), resin/3d printed parts, slow build.


Treehugger

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I had so many small problems like you airbrushing Vallejo, AK and Ammo by MiG paints - they all went away when I stopped using them and switched to MRP ^_^

 

Great work on the Viggen. It really looks nice the way you are able to remove most of the 3D print layers. They are really prominent on some of the parts. Biggest problem area for me was in the cockpit. It is really hard to clean up without ruining the details.

 

/Niels

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I think I might be a little pragmatic with the cockpit work, because, most of the inside will hardly be visible, even with an open canopy. I will ofc, take another pass at these things, but I think, it isn't worth it to try clean it all up 100% or something like that.

 

Heh, the nicely meshed 3D printed parts for the ejection seat, is sort of hidden at the bottom there I see now, which is a shame because the 3D printed mesh by the feet area, looked rather nice I thought.

 

Instead I think the most important issue then, is cleaning up the obvious stuff, like the upper part of the ejection seat and maybe the back side of the canopy. I will see if I can add some extra details behind the ejection seat, seems simple enough.

Edited by Treehugger
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I did some work cleaning up the whole front resin part. Sometimes it is better to fill in the 3D printed pattern with liquid Vallejo putty, other times it is better to scrape the surface clean it seems to me. With a 'silver' Viggen, I want to try make an effort cleaning up the 3D printed patterns seen here and there on the big resin parts and the 3D printed parts. The liquid putty, or any Vallejo putty, won't stick, unless the groves are deep enough, so shallow patterns is best removed by scraping/sanding.

 

Edit: I think now, there is something else preventing the resin parts from being pushed forwards, unsure what, maybe the sliding part of the thing is too tall or something.

 

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It is tempting to glue all the big parts togehter and then add a layer of primer, but I think it  would be nicer for me if I could work on each large part separately, as long as I can. I have to remember to clean any parts with alcohol swabs before airbrushing on primer. Sometimes, the Vallejo primer doesn't really stick to the surface, or doesn't go hard enough, unsure, and then it might get flaky if I disturb the layer of primer paint around edges in particular.

I have some idea for filling in the empty spaces in between each air intake and the big resin part. I was thinking I could simply cover the gaps with strip styrene outside, and then maybe re-build the rounded front with some styrene rod to clean up the rounded part inbetween each air intake and the large fuselage part. I don't want to add a lot of messy putty in there, as it might be very difficult to clean it up afterwards in such a tight space. 

 

I should add that the re-shaping of the air intakes would be the bottom part, not the air intake openings themselves, just the bottom part here.

 

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Vallejo Air color test.

I am thinking a mix of 'US Light Green' and 'US Dark Green' for missiles, and with some 'steel' colored parts on the "sidewinders".

Or.. maybe BS Dark Green for the missiles instead of the mix of the US Dark and Light green.

Or.. just US Dark Green. :| The green in the photos is distinctively colorful, but the US Light Green seems too light in color.

 

Edit: Ok, I mixed 'US Dark Green' and 'US Light Green', and this looks more like it I think, with a clear green hue. (Not shown in photo below)

 

So some kind of gray for the cockpit. Not sure which.

 

Maybe US Dark Green for seat fabric parts. Med Sea Gray for ejection seat harness, but, maybe a little dark?

 

Manual states 'khaki drab'. I don't have that but I mixed 'Khaki Brown' and 'Olive Drab', and got something that looks like Tamiya's 'Khaki Drab' (re. photo of it online).

 

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Even in 1:32, the aftermarket Eduard resin parts are very thin and delicate. Best be very gentle when cleaning up the excess resing around the rocket motor on each missile.

 

The excess resin around the jet motor area have ofc course been removed already in the photo below, and so isn't shown.

 

Nearly every missile body part in resin, was slightly bent. This was easily fixed by immersing most of each part in a cup of near boiling hot water, for about 50 seconds or so. I had to give a couple of them a very slight counter bend, but one has to be careful not to over correct, just a soft bend with minimal force using both my hands.

 

I think I will airbrush the additional fins (not shown below) while they are on the sprue still, to better hold these parts. I will airbrush on glossy black, and add Uschi metallic powder (burn iron iirc or dark steel iirc) for a shiny metallic look on the fins, and the front part of the Sidewinders.

 

I managed to nearly crack off a whole corner for a Sidewinder fin, but I managed to keep it on, and put some cyanoacrylate glue on it to fix the issue. I made the mistake of starting the clean up work on the Sidewinders using a side cutter, however doing a snip caused added tension which nearly broke off the rear outer area of one of the fins. Using a thin saw (Tamiya saw) worked nicely.

 

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Edited by Treehugger
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Never, until now, had I tried using a chrome pen. What joy, what fun. :)

 

I was initially unhappy with a couple of the tips after application, because I missed a spot, but I could just wipe the chrome off with airbrush cleaning liquid, and re-add the chrome.

 

I currently only have the wide pen tip type, so I ordered three more of these, with a finer tip, to keep this in store for later. No idea how these pens will be after being stored after first use, but I guess I will find out.

 

The chrome tip is a bit too shiny here, but after the curing time of at least 12 hours, I can probably dull it in ways, by rubbing or applying a varnish. I did try to add some masking tape, after only 4 hours or so, but it left a mark on the chrome, so I wiped it off and re-applied the chrome. The shiny bit on the tip, is only supposed to be a smaller area. Should probably be steel, but I can work with this. Will add black glossy primer all over the missiles, and for the Sidewinders, I'll color the fins and tip with Uschi metallic powder, probably both 'steel' and 'burnt iron', could maybe add a little on the chrome perhaps to change the coloring from 'chrome' to 'steel'.

 

It seems that the the Sidewinders will be a mix of steel (front/tip), green (body) and mid sea gray (fins), or some variant of that gray.

 

Note: I made sure to add chrome to the entire tip, to avoid any obvious edge between chrome paint and resin, which might be visible after airbrushing on primer and paint over the chrome part later.

 

The Eduard Sidewinders comes with clear parts for the optics. I will test fit the optic parts, and then try add a transluscent black smoke look to the optic, instead of it being clear. Some photos show the optic to have a different color, more like a skin color, but I don't understand why the optics looks different in some photos for Sidewinders in general.

 

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Edited by Treehugger
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