Hasegawa 1/32 Fw 190D-9 White 11, JG 51, Flensburg

[Troy Molitor]

Great start Sypros.  Looking forward to this one as well.  

[duke_]

seat corrected ..

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 18, 2022 by duke_

[Uncarina]

Really nice weathering!

 

Cheers,  Tom

[duke_]

4 minutes ago, Uncarina said:

Really nice weathering!

 

Cheers,  Tom

thanks Tom!

[Hoss FL]

Awesome weathering on the cockpit. I also like your fading and shading work. It really pops. 

[duke_]

2 hours ago, Hoss FL said:

Awesome weathering on the cockpit. I also like your fading and shading work. It really pops. 

thank you for your comment Hoss! 

i like playing with light and shadow in some areas using oil colors to give a more 3d effect to the subject..

 

i am waiting for some HGW seatbelts so i can't glue the cockpit to the fuselage yet..

so i will deal with some other sub-assemblies like wheel wells , engine compartment  etc..

 

cheers!

[duke_]

...now moving to the underside and the wheel wells 

 

 

....replacing the flaps with eduard detail set

 

 

 

 

adding the HGW control surfaces ..

 

and the tail wheel from eagle parts modified with an aluminum tube 

 

 

thank you!

Edited August 23, 2022 by duke_

[Hoss FL]

Looking great so far.

 

I have the HGW control surfaces kit that came with the riveting set. This is my first time trying these. I didn't see directions related specifically for the control surfaces. Did you prime first, then apply the decal, then prime again? Or did you apply the HGW pieces directly to the plastic? 

 

Also, how do you plan to apply them for the rivets? Prime, apply rivets, then paint? 

 

Thanks in advance, 

Jim

[Rockie Yarwood]

Top-notch work, Spyros. Really nice painting.

[duke_]

18 hours ago, Hoss FL said:

Looking great so far.

 

I have the HGW control surfaces kit that came with the riveting set. This is my first time trying these. I didn't see directions related specifically for the control surfaces. Did you prime first, then apply the decal, then prime again? Or did you apply the HGW pieces directly to the plastic? 

 

Also, how do you plan to apply them for the rivets? Prime, apply rivets, then paint? 

 

Thanks in advance, 

Jim

thanks Jim!

so , about HGW set...

the control surfaces were applied directly on bare plastic (of course it was polished and cleaned with micromesh)

and I used MrMark setter and softer (a lot...). I was afraid that it was kind of risky applying them on bare plastic, so after the first coat was dried i applied another one..

I left them overnight and the next day i removed the transfer film without any serious problems.. (but i think a gloss coat as a base will be the safest way if you are not familiar with the HGW sets)

next step was a coat of mr surfacer 1500 to protect and seal the job for the next steps..

 

now the rivets..

i really like the effect you can achieve with them.. is totally different than riveting with tools because they are raised and no recessed. i like both effects on models but  considering i am not an experienced- how can i say-.rivet-er(??) , i use HGW as the safe way ,

 

now from my own experience, and what i have learned so far..

first of all everything depends from the way you are painting and the final result you want to achieve , 

 

1. if you want just to be slightly visible then you can apply them with the following order..

primer - aluminum(0ptional)  - preshading - RIVETS - camouflage

 

2. if you want to add some wear to the camouflage them rub the area you want with a micromesh immediately after painting (for lacquer paints)

i usually rub the whole airframe focusing on some areas with higher pressure

 

3. the best way to control the effect is to do the following (that i am going to try on this model , if i don't go with actual riveting)

primer- aluminum - preshading - camouflage - RIVETS - camouflage again (more refined)

with this way you eliminate the amount of the final paint coat and the rivets will be more visible or you can even left some areas unpainted since they are silver ,,

 

i hope that helps.. if you want anything else or some clarification please feel free to ask..

 

also.

note that if you go for painted markings etc then you might have to re-apply some rivet on these areas as the multiple paint coats will cover the effect.

( imagine a dark Green RLM 81 (83) with white cross on top;   how many layers of white do you need .. As an alternative you can paint the whites first and mask them ..)

 

this is what can i describe from my personal experience,

but every modeller has his own way,  so  i am sure you will find the perfect formula that suits your style

 

looking forward to seeing your take on this..

 

S.

Edited August 24, 2022 by duke_

[duke_]

1 hour ago, Rockie Yarwood said:

Top-notch work, Spyros. Really nice painting.

Thank you Rockie!

[LSP_Kevin]

Superb work, Spyros!

 

Kev

[scvrobeson]

Nice to see so many high quality Dora builds at once on here.

 

 

Matt 

[Hoss FL]

10 hours ago, duke_ said:

thanks Jim!

so , about HGW set...

the control surfaces were applied directly on bare plastic (of course it was polished and cleaned with micromesh)

and I used MrMark setter and softer (a lot...). I was afraid that it was kind of risky applying them on bare plastic, so after the first coat was dried i applied another one..

I left them overnight and the next day i removed the transfer film without any serious problems.. (but i think a gloss coat as a base will be the safest way if you are not familiar with the HGW sets)

next step was a coat of mr surfacer 1500 to protect and seal the job for the next steps..

 

now the rivets..

i really like the effect you can achieve with them.. is totally different than riveting with tools because they are raised and no recessed. i like both effects on models but  considering i am not an experienced- how can i say-.rivet-er(??) , i use HGW as the safe way ,

 

now from my own experience, and what i have learned so far..

first of all everything depends from the way you are painting and the final result you want to achieve , 

 

1. if you want just to be slightly visible then you can apply them with the following order..

primer - aluminum(0ptional)  - preshading - RIVETS - camouflage

 

2. if you want to add some wear to the camouflage them rub the area you want with a micromesh immediately after painting (for lacquer paints)

i usually rub the whole airframe focusing on some areas with higher pressure

 

3. the best way to control the effect is to do the following (that i am going to try on this model , if i don't go with actual riveting)

primer- aluminum - preshading - camouflage - RIVETS - camouflage again (more refined)

with this way you eliminate the amount of the final paint coat and the rivets will be more visible or you can even left some areas unpainted since they are silver ,,

 

i hope that helps.. if you want anything else or some clarification please feel free to ask..

 

also.

note that if you go for painted markings etc then you might have to re-apply some rivet on these areas as the multiple paint coats will cover the effect.

( imagine a dark Green RLM 81 (83) with white cross on top;   how many layers of white do you need .. As an alternate you can paint the whites first and mask them ..)

 

this is what can i describe from my personal experience,

but every modeller has his own way,  so  i am sure you will find the perfect formula that suits your style

 

looking forward to seeing your take on this..

 

S.

Thanks Spyros! Very helpful and much appreciated. I'll do some experimenting and see what works for me. I'm thinking I'll play it more on the safe side since I have zero experience with these HGW rivets. Thanks again. 

[spyrosjzmichos]

Awesome work Spyros!

Your painting and weathering is simply impressive!