Question on primer for Resin parts

[Paul2660]

I would like ideas from others on a "best" primer for resin parts.  

 

My current process is to wash the parts with Westley's Bleach Cleaner, sanding them with 800 grit,  then spray them with Mr Surfacer 1000 or 1500. 

Paint I am using is either Mr Paint, AK real colors, (lacquer type), Mr Hobby (lacquer type) and Mission Models Acrylic 

 

Problem I have is when masking, the paint will lift off when the tape is pulled off, down to the resin.  This seems to happen with any of the paints listed above, more often with the pure Acrylics.  

 

Just painted a Eagle Parts FW-190 Cockpit set, used AK real colors RLM 66, and when I pulled off the tape where I was masking the demarcation between RLM 02 and 66, the 66 pulled off down to the base resin.  But it also happens on other resin parts I have worked with (veterans models, Barracuda parts etc).  I am holding off working on a larger resin kit until I can find a better alternative to the primer solution. 

 

Are there other primers, that will bind better to resin, even rattle can brands?  

 

Thanks

Paul 

 

[Helmsman]

Mr.Hobby has a special resin primer in a rattle can. I don't know how well it sticks.

[Paul2660]

Looks like it was called Mr Resin but it’s been discontinued in both rattle can and jar. 
 

Paul

[rafju]

did you try Tamiya TS30 as first coat (primer)?

[Bob MDC]

My go to primer for most resin and other stuff (3D material) is a quick waft of a car body primer then Mr Primer Surfacer 1500 while the first coat is still damp then cure them off. Luckily I have drying cabinet normally about 40 oC and then cure for several hours, I find the curing is the most important part of priming as we are using this method for treating masters of all types of materials before casting.

 

Bob

[Paul2660]

thanks for the info.  Bob, I realize you are across the pond and brands will be different.  But on the auto body primer, is it a rattle can? or are you airbrushing it? 

 

Paul 

 

[Confusionreigns178]

Hello.

 

As a previous poster has said, rattle-can car-primer from Halfords (or similar, cheaper alternatives, like Holts) stick to just about anything and stay where you spray them. They can be very easily sanded and are much better value-for-money than the "specialized" model-making primers. 

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Chris. 

[Bob MDC]

No airbrush, all my priming is by rattle can, normally grey auto primer then Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 any colour. 

I've found no real difference in using a can over airbrush, when I was the UK importer for Mr Hobby I had a couple of interesting conversations with some of the technical guys one was very pro rattle can as the GSI Creos heads were very good and as the pigment in the primers were different to paint this could cause wear on the airbrush.

So as the day job was a few masters coming through in various states I normally finish all my masters for casting in the combo with lots of happy customers.

I find my drying cabinet is the ace for me giving a hard surface to work on if needed.

 

Bob

 

[rafju]

HI Bob

Please more precisely, which "grey auto primer can" do you use?

something like in the range of Motip primer?

 

Thank you in advance

[Bob MDC]

This is the stuff I use https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/primer/halfords-primer-grey-500ml-473116.html

UK had another brand Hycote which was very good but the one by Halfords works better for me.

 

Bob

[blackbetty]

i use dupli color

https://www.amazon.de/Dupli-Color-385889-Spray-Rostschutz-Haftgrund/dp/B005IFID74/ref=asc_df_B005IFID74/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=308983289890&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7604761093042906922&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9062717&hvtargid=pla-564169157979&psc=1&th=1&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=68405949984&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=308983289890&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7604761093042906922&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9062717&hvtargid=pla-564169157979

(but i dont use amazon, i use the local car acessories shop)

[Woody V]

Keep in mind that primer (any paint in fact) sticks better to a rough or sanded surface. 

[Gerhard]

I find Tamiya primer works a treat. 

[daveculp]

I've tried Rustoleum primer on resin (3D printing resin) and it never dries.  I had to scrape/sand it off which took a week.  I switched to Tamiya and have had no problems other than a dwindling bank account.

[LSP_Kevin]

10 hours ago, daveculp said:

I've tried Rustoleum primer on resin (3D printing resin) and it never dries.  I had to scrape/sand it off which took a week.  I switched to Tamiya and have had no problems other than a dwindling bank account.

 

Same experience for me with Rustoleum and standard polyurethane resin. Rather than remove it, however, I just covered it over with a layer of Mr. Surfacer, and this seemed to fix the issue.

 

Kev