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1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 - Dortenmann's Black 1


Hoss FL

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My next project is going to be Hasegawa's Fw 190D-9. I've built the Eduard and Tamiya 1/48 Dora kits several times (including the D-13 yellow 10 after being amazed seeing it in Seattle a few years ago), but have not yet built a 1/32 Dora. I have the Jerry Crandall two-volume set, the Smith & Creek Fw 190 three-volume set as well as the Aero Detail book from Japan.

 

Needless to say, I'm an Fw enthusiast and thought about a 1/32 Dora when I learned about Jerry's passing. I always thought that a yellow tailed D-9 would be the ultimate scheme and have narrowed my choices down to:

 

A. Black 10, W. Nr. 500618 - an attractive scheme - unknown pilot. 

GMikBad.jpg

 

 

B. Black 1, Hans Dortenmann's 210003, second variant after the refit in February 1945. 

 

 

 

VLeFsws.jpg

 

 

 

C. Yellow 1, Hans Dortenmann's 210003, final variant after changing units in March 1945.

 

z7DRFXs.jpg

 

I'm leaning toward B, Dortenmann's Black 1. Although it's been built many times by very highly respected modelers (e.g., Thunnus and Chris Wauchop), it's such a snappy scheme and arguably the most famous Dora, that I'm compelled to take it on. I've also built Dortenmann's JG 54 Red 1 A-8 using Hasegawa's 1/32 kit.  

 

I've purchased a number of aftermarket goodies already and plan to follow the builds of several of the modelers here on LSP, Thunnus in particular, as guides. Thanks in advance.

 

The aftermarket items so far: 

  • HGW transfer riveting set
  • EagleCals
  • HGW seatbelts
  • Quickboost exhaust
  • SAC landing gear struts
  • Aires cockpit upgrade
  • Quickboost gun barrels
  • Edward flaps
  • Barracuda wheels
  • Eduard exterior detail kit

 

I'm working my way through the planning and research phase and would welcome any thoughts or advice from the group. I'll post again when I get a little farther along. Thanks again. 

 

 

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Wunderbar!  I love the Fw190 too so I am looking forward to seeing your unique take on a model that I'm very familiar with.  I wouldn't worry too much about doing a subject that's already been done.  I debated the same thing when I started my Black 1.  We all have unique approaches and I'm sure your build will have things that make it stand out from the rest.  The Hasegawa D-9 is almost 20 years old but is still a good kit without any major issues and I'm sure you'll enjoy building it.  My D-9 build with the Aires cockpit was not posted here but I'll send you a link if you are interested.

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  • Hoss FL changed the title to 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 - Dortenmann's Black 1

Thanks very much for the comments. So I've decided to go with B. Dortenmann's Black 1.

 

I've also grabbed a Yahu instrument panel and a prop/spinner setup from Henri Daehne in Germany. 

 

After spending some time working with the cockpit upgrade options, I'm thinking that the kit base cockpit, Aires seat, pedals, and gunsight, and the Yahu IP will make the most sense based on how everything fits together. I'll add some detail here and there as well. 

 

Based on the builds I've seen on the forum here, the real winner would be the Eagle Editions cockpit, but they are sold out on their website and I can't find any to buy. I like the detail and how the kit depicts the canopy slide rails. 

 

I have not yet decided on open or closed canopy, but I'm leaning on having this build all buttoned up to highlight the lines of the aircraft. I'm also planning on depicting the plane just after its refit and repaint and will attempt an appropriately modest amount of weathering. 

 

I'm still test fitting and familiarizing myself with the kit and upgrades. I'll post some photos when I'm further along.

 

I will certainly be using your builds as references, Thunnus! Your explanations and photos are so clear and helpful -- thank you!  

 

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The office is now complete. I used the kit tub as the foundation and used the Aires seat, Aires pedals, HGW seatbelts and Yahu instrument panel as upgrades. 

 

jQG1FTM.jpg

 

I didn't think the Aires tub was worth the work since it didn't add much detail compared to the kit part. The Aires seat, however, looked much better than the kit version. It has a nifty leather pad for lumbar support. The kit tub doesn't reflect the false bulkhead on either side of the seat, but I think it looks reasonable overall. I added a scratch O2 regulator to the starboard side of the seat.

 

ZYhDVQb.jpg

 

I used Mr. Color paints with some dark brown and black pastel washes for weathering as well as colored pencils for chips and scratches. 

 

To reflect the canopy slide rail, which isn't represented at all by the kit parts or the Aires upgrade, I added sections of stretched sprue to either side of the cockpit sill and painted them metallic grey with some silver highlights. (See the first photo also.)

 

nsVbL05.jpg

 

I applied some Airscale Luftwaffe cockpit placards to the side panels for some added detail. I think they really dress up the panels. I used the hi-res Smithsonian cockpit photo as the reference for the placards and labels. Some artistic license was also in play. I also added a leather strap for the map case on the starboard side. 

 

o3GA3K8.jpg

 

The Yahu instrument panel comes as a simple set of panels without a support structure. To mount them I filed off the detail from the kit IP and attached the Yahu panels using CA glue. 

 

 

 

NaWUTZf.jpg

 

It's a fun build so far. I'm following some of the other build threads on the forum for ideas and watch-outs and am also using the "tweak list" from Thierry Laurent as a punch list reference. 

 

Thanks for looking. Comments and critiques are always welcome. 

 

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I would love to watch the construction. There is a single photo of this bot. And it's clearly not a 10. On the subject of the yellow tail. From the memories of the pilot . The tail was painted yellow (rudder), but on landing the anti-aircraft gunners fired on the plane. We had to paint the entire keel yellow.  Both options would be fair. I would choose yellow only the rudder. 

5936592_orig.jpg.935493ba4ecf6b8ef6a0b79

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Hey, Hoss

 

Office looks spot on, if there's any nits to pick I can only really see one: the seat back wasn't made from aluminum, only the seat pan. The back was actually made from armored steel plate to protect the pilot, so if the paint chipped it wouldn't show highly reflective aluminum, but the more subdued and dark grayish tones of non-corroded steel plate. Here's some pix to back me up, naturally the seats wouldn't look this beat up or rusted out on an operational bird, but you strike me as a detail-oriented guy so I figure you'd appreciate having that little nugget of knowledge for your build.

FYY2Zh9.jpg

7l92cp8.jpg

Keep up the great work, can't wait to see the rest of it unfold, if your recent Pony is anything to go by.

 

Hope that helped, cheers!

- Thomaz

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6 hours ago, TAG said:

Hey, Hoss

 

Office looks spot on, if there's any nits to pick I can only really see one: the seat back wasn't made from aluminum, only the seat pan. The back was actually made from armored steel plate to protect the pilot, so if the paint chipped it wouldn't show highly reflective aluminum, but the more subdued and dark grayish tones of non-corroded steel plate. Here's some pix to back me up, naturally the seats wouldn't look this beat up or rusted out on an operational bird, but you strike me as a detail-oriented guy so I figure you'd appreciate having that little nugget of knowledge for your build.

FYY2Zh9.jpg

7l92cp8.jpg

Keep up the great work, can't wait to see the rest of it unfold, if your recent Pony is anything to go by.

 

Hope that helped, cheers!

- Thomaz

 

Hi Thomaz - Thanks for your insight on the armored seat. It makes perfect sense but I hadn't connected the dots on this one. Very much appreciated. Thanks again!  

 

- Jim

 

 

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Thanks for the comments and encouragement. The engine plug is now complete with some added plumbing and wiring. 

 

jVILuQ9.jpg

 

It's interesting that the Hasegawa instructions call out RLM02 for panels that don't really exist. I painted them flat black instead. Most of this gets covered up by the engine cowling and panel between the wheel bays, but enough is visible to make the extra detail worth it. 

 

4Ac4Dz9.jpg

 

I looked through a number of Jumo engine photos and references to get a sense of colors and auxiliary equipment, but the wiring and plumbing is not accurate. The spent casing chutes are cut off to be replaced with the Eduard upgrade kit brass sheet pieces. 

 

I'm enjoying this build so far. I'm not documenting everything step by step, but plan to show the completed result of the key subassemblies and build, paint and finishing steps. I really want to compliment Thunnus (aka John) on his step-by-step photos and explanations -- extremely helpful guides. Having built this kit five times, he really helps with the watch-outs and gotchas. Thanks. 

 

By the way, @TAG, I redid the weathering on the seatbacks to reflect steel armor plate. Thanks again for the tip. Photos later. 

 

Thanks for looking. Comments and critiques are always welcome. 

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