sandbagger Posted June 30, 2022 Share Posted June 30, 2022 Hi all, My build of the RAF BE2c is complete, apart from its display case. So I thought I'd take a break from resin models and rigging. Therefore the next model will be the Junkers J.1 armoured ground attack aircraft. This particular aircraft is Serial No: 596/18 at Dessau airfield, Germany, in September 1918. Mike LSP_Kevin, chukw, Uncarina and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 1, 2022 Author Share Posted July 1, 2022 (edited) Hi all, Interesting to note that even 'Wingnut Wings' can get it wrong. The known gap at the upper wing aileron inboard ends. Also the instruction manual on page 11 shows assembly of the upper wing outer sections. The kit supplies wing stiffeners (Parts I1 and I6), which are intended to be fitted into the upper wings outer halves before the halves are joined. However, the instructions on page 11 do not show or mention these stiffeners. Mike EDIT - I was wrong - the stiffeners are for the upper wing centre section (page 8 in the instructions) - not for the outer wing sections. Edited July 2, 2022 by sandbagger scvrobeson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 Makes sense that their very first kit would have some mistakes and errors in it. I'm sure you'll tackle them without issue though. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpgsbody55 Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 Interesting looking build. Cheers, Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 2, 2022 Author Share Posted July 2, 2022 Hi all, The kit supplied upper wing outer sections have an extension at the wing trailing edges. This is to represent the cover strip for the leading edges of the ailerons. However, due to the limitations of moulding, these corrugated cover strips are moulded as straight extensions. In reality, these cover strips were normally unevenly distorted along their entire length, from slight to heavy distortions. As they were made from corrugated Duraluminium sheet, my assumption is they were probably distorted by being trodden on by maintenance personnel. To create these distortions, I used the heat from an electrical soldering iron. The wing was held of the tip of the soldering iron until the styrene showed signs of softening. I then eased the styrene into a distortion using the ball end of a paper embossing tool. Then I just moved along the wing repeating the process. Now onto the infamous gap between the aileron inboard ends and the upper wing centre section, Mike chukw, 109, Landrotten Highlander and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 Clever solution and very precise work, Mike! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 Hi all, The upper wing ailerons are supposed to be close to the outboard trailing edges of the centre section. Once assembled, there is a 2.5 mm gap where the centre section moulding did not include an extension to meet the ends of the ailerons. Making inserts to fill the gaps is tricky as the wing surfaces are corrugated. However, the kit sprues have two parts (24 and 25) which are not used and these are corrugated on on side. I cut two strips with two corrugations to fit the gaps. These were cemented into the gap on the top surface of the upper wing. There is not enough of parts 24 and 25 left to use on the underside of the upper wing. Therefore I cut inserts from 0.5 mm styrene sheet to fill the gaps then added two 0.5 mm wide styrene rods to represent the corrugations. Mike ORIGINAL GAP UPPER SURFACE INFILL UNDERSIDE INFILL scvrobeson, 109, Trak-Tor and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John1 Posted July 4, 2022 Share Posted July 4, 2022 Nice work so far. I'll be following this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 Hi all, Although the kit supplied engine (Benz Bz.IV) is of good quality, there are details of the engine not included. 1. Cylinders coolant pipe (left side of engine only). 2. Ignition lead support tube (both sides of the engine). 3. Fuel primers (left side of engine cylinders). 4. Carburettor pre-heating gallery. 5. Carburettor pre-heating pipe. 6. Carburettor pre-heating pipe. 7. Carburettor pre-heating supply pipe. 8. Ignition leads (both sides of the engine). 9. Carburettor control rod. 10. Fuel supply connection (possibly). 11. Bleed pipe (possibly). 12. Valve gear push rods (6 each side of the engine). 13. Oil filter and pipe. I've made a start by cutting away the pre-moulded and flat coolant pipe across the bottom of the cylinders. This was replaced by 0.8 mm diameter styrene rod inserts. Also the ignition leads support tubes were made from flattened 0.6 mm diameter brass tube. Next up are the cylinder fuel primers, Mike Dpgsbody55, Phantom2, chukw and 10 others 12 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted July 9, 2022 Share Posted July 9, 2022 Nice so far. Also note the valve springs are just wee cylinders. I wrapped wire around to represent the springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 17 hours ago, LSP_Mike said: Nice so far. Also note the valve springs are just wee cylinders. I wrapped wire around to represent the springs. Hi Mike, Yes I noticed that. Also the valve gear supports rods are moulded as one flat. Tricky to do - we'll see, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 11, 2022 Author Share Posted July 11, 2022 Hi all, The engine is as complete as I can get it. I've added some details: Ignition leads support tubes Ignition leads Valve gear push rods Cylinder fuel primers Float chamber fuel supply Magneto spark advance rod Throttle control rod Carburettor interconnection rod and levers Rear engine pipes and tachometer drive. Coolant pipe through cylinder bases Coolant supply pipe from water pump. The engine controls will be attached to the fuselage/cockpit later in the build. Now onto the fuselage, Mike Phantom2, John1, LSP_Kevin and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpgsbody55 Posted July 11, 2022 Share Posted July 11, 2022 Lovely engine. You've done a great job on that . Cheers, Michael Oldbaldguy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 19, 2022 Author Share Posted July 19, 2022 Hi all, The basic fuselage internals are done. Although no rigging is necessary I have added the rudder and elevator control lines. I've also added extra fuel pipes to the main fuel tank and the 'Telefunken' wireless aerial wire, wrapped around the spool on the set in the gunners cockpit. Finally the two filler caps on the right side forward from the pilots cockpit - I assume these were for fuel and coolant. I've not fitted the two aileron control rods from the cockpit as they can be easily broken during subsequent handling. I've tested and they can be fitted later but before the engine is finally fitted. The engine shot below is test fitted only. Mike LSP_Kevin, 109, duke_ and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 21, 2022 Author Share Posted July 21, 2022 Hi all, The hinged engine access doors had more detail than provided on the basic doors that are supplied in the kit. Also Wingnut Wings chose to have four bracing ribs moulded onto the inside of both panels. However, The only photographs of these panels, either at the time or museum aircraft, don't show four bracing ribs. They seem to have been located on the doors as either: Two ribs - front and forward Three ribs - forward, centre and rear Two ribs - forward and centre. Also there are details that needed to be added: Lightening holes in the bracing ribs Retaining cable or rod Additional bracing tubes Ports from the external cooling air louvres (right door only) Access panels to the engine (left door). I opted for the three ribs (forward, centre and rear) as shown below. The ribs were cut from 0.5 mm thick styrene sheet and drilled using 0.6, 0.8, 1.0 and 1.2 mm diameter drills. The bracing tubes are flattened 0.7 mm diameter Brass tube. Cooling ports and access panels were cut from 0.2 mm thick styrene sheet. Now onto the locking plates for the two access panels. Mike John1, Rockie Yarwood, Out2gtcha and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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